Skip to main content

To Follow-up on my post about the Lionel 120th Anniversary Santa Fe Engine, I though it would be easier to have a separate post for the operating milk car, since is is also offered for separate sale on page 11 in the 2020 Lionel Catalog.  The Anniversary set milk car is all white while the separate sale car has a different paint scheme with the brown roof and sides with  white front and back . That scheme for the separate sale more closely matches the 3662 Milk Car from 1955 through 1960 and later. 

Below is the operating milk car, #12047,  which is part of the 120th anniversary set.  Its all white an has a similar look to the milk cars that were issued in the early 1950s, those were basically smaller, 027 sized cars.   

DSC_0134

Below are three examples of the milk cars, On the left, is the 3482, which is part of the series of the early versions.  There very few parts from that car that were used in the larger sized milk cars that came later, which are sized similar to the 6464 box cars.  The middle car is the one from the 120th Anniversary set.  Love the Bright White!  The car on the right is the larger, later issue number 3662 version.  From an operating and repair viewpoint,  it is significantly easier to work on versus the old models. 

DSC_0135

Below, are the milk cans, the one on the left works with the 3482 and earlier 027 sized cars. They have a magnet on the bottom,  They don't work in the newer cars, trust me.  The white can with red top goes with the new set, while the all sliver one goes with the 3662 car on the right.  Those two milk cans have flat bottoms.

DSC_0136

Below is a shot of the milk can bottoms, the one on the left has a round hole in the bottom, this is the can that will not work in the newer milk cars. Trust me on this.

DSC_0137

The shells for the 12047 and the 3662 are nearly identical. I like the black covers over the door springs (top middle of the shell, it helps secure the door springs in place.  Nice touch. 

DSC_0138

The milk person looks the same, but he is painted.  The drop shoot looks very similar  to the 3662. 

DSC_0139

The same view of the 3662. 

DSC_0140

This is the back view of the 3662.  I bought this used and not working, it only needed new wires, a cleaning and some lubrication in a few parts. The rewiring is an easy fix,  the old wires usually have brittle insulation that has broken off and causes a short. 

DSC_0141

A few pictures of the back side of the 12047.  Dave Olsen from Lionel commented in my other post, on the need to upgrade the electronics so it would draw less amps so it can more easily run on RTR sets. 

DSC_0142

About the only reason to take the shell off is to get at the milk cars if they somehow get jammed in the shoot.  There is one screw that keeps the lid on the shoot, its in the same place as in the vintage milk car, right near the top. I circled it in the bottom picture.  The cans get stuck if you store them in the car and then turn the car on its side. 

DSC_0139_LI

a closer view of the electronics.   

DSC_0143

When you put the car back together, best to put the roof on the shell, then place them on the frame like they are one piece.

DSC_0145

This is the bottom of the two cars, (the vintage is on the left, the 12047 is on the right). Note that both have the "sliding shoe" which is needed to operate the car on the remote control track, however, the 12047, also has a pick up for the center rail, which is not present on the vintage milk car.  Both trucks  on the 12047 have the same configuration.  I could not tell if the trucks are insulated from the frame, so I really can't tell you much about the wiring.  I do here a clicking type noise when I power up the track.

DSC_0146

a shot of both trucks.

DSC_0147

This is the box from the set.

DSC_0150

The mike stand is so shinny!  It probably will lead to smoother operation versus my pitted stand that I used in the videos.

DSC_0149

This is the new car in operation,  very smooth. 

The 1950s car, the milk men were more powerful, and much quicker to get the job done and then move on to the next town. 

Best, Dave

Attachments

Images (17)
  • DSC_0134
  • DSC_0135
  • DSC_0136
  • DSC_0137
  • DSC_0138
  • DSC_0139
  • DSC_0140
  • DSC_0141
  • DSC_0142
  • DSC_0143
  • DSC_0145
  • DSC_0146
  • DSC_0147
  • DSC_0148
  • DSC_0149
  • DSC_0150
  • DSC_0139_LI
Videos (2)
New Milk Car A
Old Milk Car A+
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Dave,

Thanks for this! Very well done and informative. Excellent pictures.

Question: Do you know if the new platform works with both Fastrack and traditional Lionel tinplate track? I know the 2020 catalog refers to the need for a "Fastrack operating track section" so wasn't sure if older tin track fits properly. Looking at the pictures it's hard to tell.

I might consider getting the new separate sale car but would use it with an existing traditional UCS track section.

Btw, I really like the bright white version, too. Although I always thought the best looking milk car was the white version with the metal doors.

Last edited by johnstrains

#Dave Olson Questions:  the old 3662 used that big old solenoid and plunger for the activation.  With some tweaking of the voltage to the UCS track, you could get nice, reliable, almost slow operation.

What is driving this one?  Will lowering the voltage slow the operation of the man through the doors like on my Post War version?  With the third rail roller, do you need the track to be at voltage when operating the car?  You didn't on the Post War one... just voltage to the UCS.

Jon

Last edited by KOOLjock1

The newer car does not have a solenoid. instead it uses a servo. The servo is controlled by a voltage regulated circuit and you do not need to adjust the voltage. It will even work smoothly on a command controlled layout where the track voltage is at 18 volts. This is a major change and improvement in the milk car operation. The platform is wider and will accomodate FasTrack, but will also work with a UCS or RCS track. One problem I found was that the Santa figure used on one of the cars will not quite get the can out the doors. Replacing the Santa figure with the more traditional man works fine. I don't think any of the 2020 or 2021 cars have the Santa figure. I wrote an extensive article on the new mechanism in the February issue of the LCCA publication, The Lion Roars, with a follow up in the June issue.

Best,
Bill Schmeelk

My milk car regularly gets cans jamming the mechanism.   I've tried unsuccessfully to better the operation -  polish the cans, 'smooth' out the internal loading ramp etc. so the cans move more freely down the ramp.  Not much success.  How does this milk car that I own - 36621 -  compare to the 19818 Dairymen's League Milk Car as far as operation goes?  Others?  Regardless of looks, which milk car operates the best in your opinion?



Attachments

Images (2)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1

Hi RichardVB,

I have found the 3662 Milk car to be a really good operator, much smoother than the older models.  I usually test them with the body off, that way you can see where the problems exist.  Please check to see that your milk cans do not have the magnets on the bottom, since the 3662 uses the cans without magnets.  I have attached the operating instructions.

Keep us posted on your progress.   

Attachments

Files (1)

Oh, no magnets - interesting and could be part of the problem.  The 'ramp' inside is made of plastic in my milk car - was that 'factory'?  The milk cars don't seem to roll down the internal ramp nicely.  Maybe the milk cans I'm using that have magnets are not the correct size?

I was thinking of getting a new version 19818 Dairymen's League Milk Car to minimize the frustration of 'milk-car-jams' when I run the set.  I appreciate any recommendations you could offer.

Make sure that any plastic flash on the cans is carefully sanded off.  Make sure there is no seam or flash in the can chute.  Run your accessory track at just enough voltage to get the man to push through the door, but not enough that he looks silly doing it.  I have all my Accessory tracks running off fixed voltage set to "MILK".

I've been running my 36621 for well over 20 years without a jam.

Jon

It's been my experience that the newer operating milk cars with the servo, rather than the solenoid, operate much smoother, even if a little slower. The servo is especially easy if you operate command control with the full 18 volts to the track. No worries and no more adjusting to the right voltage so the little man doesn't throw the cans all over the platform. The servo is much better

IMG_5236 [1)

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_5236 (1)

Add Reply

Post
This forum is sponsored by Lionel, LLC

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×