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Hi,   I'm trying to repair a 154 crossing signal and have some questions re: the disassembly. A friend gave me two of these signals - one with black cross arms and the non functioning one has white cross arms.  Looking at Lionel's support manual, these signals had a printed circuit board in them.  Is that correct or do I have older models which didn't use electronics to control the flashing of both lights?  Speaking of lights, the manual says these bulbs simply pull out.  Guess they are like the old style Christmas tree lamps that had power contact strips on both sides of the lamp base.  With the black shield over the top of the lamp, I'm a little nervous trying to pry the bulbs out if they're corroded in place.  Can I simply straighten/loosen the four metal tabs under the base and will this free up the mast?  This signal does not have screws securing the white cross arms or the black lamp fixture.  Not sure but they might be plastic. I used a DVM to check continuity of the lamps but no measure between any of the three contacts.  All I did get (using the highest resistance setting of 20M ohm) was an initial reading of 17 rapidly decreasing to 3.  Like it was reading across a capacitor.  Thanks for any help you can give me.     BobP1100021P1100022


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Google Lionel 154 crossing signal. There's a lot of info available including the original instruction sheets, and they're readable.

They need a 154C track contactor to operate, but they look iffy at best using those. Since you can use a DVM, I suggest picking up an inexpensive flasher module available online. Then just use an insulated rail (which it looks like you would need with the 154C anyway). Be sure to check the input requirements though, whether AC or DC. There is also info available here on OGR about that.


Last edited by Dtrainmaster

These look vintage so no circuit boards.  A 154C contactor is needed to create the flashing effect.  If you look at this site, https://www.tandem-associates....l_trains_154_acc.htm,  youll notice the contactor is split so when the wheels ride over it, they create the on off flash effect at the lights. 

You can simply put some power to the posts temporarily to see if the lights work.  If not, a squirt of WD40 to the socket might free them up to remove and replace.  I forget if they screw in or are a push in and slightly twist design to pop them out.

The 154 signal from the postwar era 1945-1969 does not have a circuit board. Like Dtrainmaster says you need a 154c contactor to operate them .The signal made between 1945 to 1949 uses a screw base red bulb 45-76 or 1449-301, the signal made from 1950 to 1969 uses a bayonet red bulb 363-301. The screw bulb just screws out while the bayonet bulb has to be turned and pulled out.

Hi Joe and Dave.   Thanks for your replies.  I did buy a electronic flasher for the working (black cross arm) crossing signal and it works great.  I do have a 154 connector and will try it on the non working unit but don't think it will bring it back to life as I have tried applying fixed voltage to the terminals without luck.  Going to a train show in Bradenton FL next month so will take this signal with me and see if they have a fix-it booth there.     Bob

Hi guys.  I used the WD40 and it worked.  BTW, the black cross arm unit had bayonet base bulbs in it while the white cross arm unit had screw type bulbs.  All bulbs tested and worked.  I used the black unit as my working model and tested for continuity.  Used these readings for the white unit.  Found the bulb tips had continuity to the left and center terminals.  BUT - the white unit had no continuity between either socket and the right terminal.  I plan to spray WD40 in the back of the sockets and also where the black plug attaches to the shaft.  Oh - I did have continuity between the shaft and the right terminal.  Hope this works.

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