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I want to remove IR sensors that have a ground and serial wire.  Is the changeover as easy as replacing those 2 wire sensors with female/male plugs.  Or is there something more involved?

I know Mary is the go-to-guy, but he emailed me last night and informed me he is not available at present.  Looking for someone who has done this, so I can start this weekend?  Many thanks.

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Bryant Dunivan 111417 posted:

I want to remove IR sensors that have a ground and serial wire.  Is the changeover as easy as replacing those 2 wire sensors with female/male plugs.  Or is there something more involved?

I know Mary is the go-to-guy, but he emailed me last night and informed me he is not available at present.  Looking for someone who has done this, so I can start this weekend?  Many thanks.

I did call Lionel and they told me a tech responded that the serial out on the IR sender is passed through to the receiver sensor and they are basically the same out of the board and into another board.  In essence, if I grab the signal before the sender and put that same signal after the receiver, it should be the same.  IR sensors will be removed.  Anyone out there done this yet?

Not sure why you want to get rid of the IR link, but Carl's diagram looks like it should work, he's taking the native serial data directly to the sound board, the same way they'd be cabled if you use the ERR cables.

Carl, clever use of limited tether pins by muxing them, nice job!   I'm confused as to where the chuff is generated on your diagram, all I see are inputs.  Is that square block the chuff switch?  Hard to read the diagram with the limited resolution.  Why is the chuff switch in the tender, wouldn't it be better in the locomotive on the driver for synchronized chuffs?

Carl Tuveson posted:

If you take the serial out of the receiver or driver board, not at the input of the IR transmitter LED it should work. Some IR LED driver outputs may not be the correct potential or polarity.

Here is how I do it in my AF Berkshire TMCC conversions.

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I ordered Molex Micro-Fit connectors for the job.  Thinking 24 AWG stranded would be a good choice.  I will solder and shrink tube the connections prior and after the board plugs.  Thanks so far, I think we can proceed.  If I am successful I will let you all know about Project "A".

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