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I have the above named locomotive from a friend who has passed.  His wife would like me to dispose of it.  It had been stored in an attic for many years.  When placed on the track is responded to power but sluggishly.  I opened it up, cleaned the brush plates, lubed all gears but one motor remains sluggish.   When applying power it requires more voltage to begin turning.  Visually it looks to be turning at a lower RPM than the other.  What else should I be looking for or is this just something a 70 year old loco does?  Again, cleaned and lubed so what else if anything?

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On the two motor locos, getting the two motors to run at the same speed is a challenge.  Frequently when you see these motors for sale they will be identified as “matched” motors.  In reality, a series wound motor’s speed is determined by so many different factors, getting the two motors to run at the same speed, unloaded, is impossible. But when you turn the loco over and put it on the track the two motors will be running at the same speed and mostly share the load.  If one motor tries to pull the other motor, the torque will go up, the speed will go down, and then they will be running at the same speed. The unloaded speed mismatch is probably not a problem.  There are lots of issues that will cause a speed mismatch that should be corrected, many listed above. Do not worry about unloaded motor speed mismatch unless it is caused by a real problem.

I have seen many of these 2360s do this ( to me, more that the 2340s). Loose magnets and rubbing wheels is a common culprit, IMHO. Do the common logical "stuff"-take the motor out of the truck to determine if it is the wheels ( grunge, gears,  some filings, loose magnet, etc)-or the motor itself . I need to check but I dont think that the GG1s have the tiny ball bearing on the top, but they are "sensitive" to the proper placement of the bearing washers, etc on the motor shaft in the truck. I have also seen a few with shorts in the wound wires do this. I am not an expert with these, but I know that a few on the forum are. P Hering

I defer to David's expertise, but that seems like a big difference to me.  I would definitely test both of the motors out of the truck.  Another thing I would look at closely are the brush springs and brush spring tension.  I like to make a solder connection between the brush spring and the fold on the top of the brass well, it's more positive than relying on the spring force alone.  Use a hot iron and do it quickly so you don't anneal the spring, causing it to lose its spring force.

With that much difference in speed, I would even be tempted to buy another postwar GG1 motor on eBay.  Compare them all, and install the two that are most closely matched, keeping the third as a spare.  As you said, you don't want the prospective buyer to be disappointed (and I probably would be.)

Last edited by Ted S

i have been rebuilding 4 or 5 double motored post-war engines F-3s, and a GG-1 over the past year and NONE of them start at the same voltage. some run much closer than others, but one of them was like your kit in the video clip - one started at 5 volts, the other waited until almost 9~10 volts and this was after a full cleaning, new brushes and grease for the gears, etc, etc. I swapped the armatures into the opposite fields/trucks and it improved a bit - something with the unique nature of two fields and two armatures that read nearly identical with an ohmmeter that worked better together.

- long story short, maybe try swapping armatures, it helped one of mine

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