One presumes you're talking about this set since you didn't specify the actual product number.

Lionel 6-30125 PENNSYLVANIA FLYER SET (0-8-0 #565)

This is the siderod screw for that locomotive, clearly not press fit.

That being said, I've had more than one of these types of engines where the screws don't come out properly, they rotate the insert in the wheel instead of coming out.

Looks like these were over tightened by the Chinese manufacturer.   I got the whole set pre-owned for only $50, which had all of the freight cars, fastrack, and the Lionel CW transformer (which itself is worth more than $50).   I already sold the loop of FT for $45.  Wonder if there is a demand for the engine parts.   

Dave

Well, since the whole thing was worth $50, there's not much demand.

Success!  I was able to remove the linkage bolts.  I clamped one side of the engine wheels in a vice, than used a pair of duck bill pliers  (since the small sockets kept slipping).   Some of the wheels were out of gauge too.  Engine still runs with a slight clanky noise, which I figured was the axle cam that pushes the smoke piston up and down.  Upon re-assembly, I was careful not to over tighten the linkage bolts.   Unless I run this to near full speed, (which means flying off the track on curves) you don't see a lot of smoke output. 

If you want more smoke, insert a couple of 3A diode pairs in series with a motor lead.  This will require more track voltage for the same speed and the smoke unit gets more power.

Most sockets are rounded at the nut opening. I grind the ends enough to remove that radius and better grip those thin head shoulder screws.

This likely has the common 27 ohm smoke resistor. You can use a 20-22 ohm resistor in its place to get more smoke.

Pete

Pete, That's a good idea to grind the sockets.

And to John, I have used the diode method (bridge Rectifier) on other engines, including AF engines.   So will try it with this one too.   Thanks for the help.

What helps with this engine is that the smoke element heats up when in neutral.  So I do this for about 1 minute, then it puffs nicely for a few loops around the pike.

Well, I ended up inserting 10 bridge rectifiers in series before the motor to get the 30--ohm  smoke element to heat sufficiently.   (My meter read 30 ohms)     I see 27 ohm and also 16 ohm ones online.  Maybe if I get the 16 ohm,  I can remove the bridge rectifiers, or is 16 too low a rating?   

@Drummer3 posted:

Well, I ended up inserting 10 bridge rectifiers in series before the motor to get the 30--ohm  smoke element to heat sufficiently.   (My meter read 30 ohms)     I see 27 ohm and also 16 ohm ones online.  Maybe if I get the 16 ohm,  I can remove the bridge rectifiers, or is 16 too low a rating?   

It might be too low. I would try a 20 ohm 2 watt resistor.

Pete

I'm with Pete, around 20 ohms would be a good starting point.

30 ohms with 14 volts on it is 6.5 watts, that should be producing smoke.  20 ohms with 14 volts on it is 9.8 watts, that's getting close to fire!

If you needed ten bridge rectifiers, something is wrong!  That would drop virtually all your voltage!  Each bridge accounts for around 1.5 volts, so if you cranked your 18 volt transformer up to the full 18 volts, you'd only have three volts on the motor!

Time to revisit how you're connecting things...

OK, will keep you posted what I find out.   I have good smoke fluid, in fact the wick seems to be too damp.   I use 2 transformers in series so the train still will run at a medium speed.  When I put 27 volts when in neutral for about 30 seconds, then the smoke element heats up and  produces thick white smoke for about 1 loop at medium speed.  (30 foot loop).     Being an 'economy' starter set, I guess I can't expect too much.

27 volts?

It should be run at a maximum of 18 volts!  Something is seriously amiss here!

The transformer that came with that set puts out a maximum of 18 VAC!

27 volts less 15 volts (10 rectifiers in series to the motor) equals 17 volts to the motor at full speed.    I run it at medium speed, so maybe 12 volts to the motor and 22 volts to the smoke element.   But I agree, something is amiss.  Time to move on to my next project.

12 volts to the motor of that unit should have it jumping the rails, something is very wrong!

Yes that's the transformer that I have.   Thanks for the correction of 18 volts max.  Do you know where I can buy a 20 or 22 ohm smoke resistor?   I see 16 ohm ones on ebay.

I take this RES 20 OHM 5% 5W AXIAL resistor and carefully crunch the square outside ceramic in a vice.  Out comes a perfect 20 ohm smoke resistor.  Since I buy in quantity, I only pay 29 cents for them, but even in quantity one they're only 50 cents.

Tip: Wear safety glasses when cracking the shell, you want to squeeze on the corners for best results.