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I’ve been asked by a couple of fellas in previous threads how I did my Pittman swaps.....This weekend, I attended the Greenberg’s show in Va. Beach, and low and behold I ran into yet another Mohawk. She had a just a tiny bit of cosmetic damage on her pilot....The seller is a good friend who I purchase quite a bit from, so we haggled a little, and we came to good deal...a real good deal!....Thanks John!.....anyways, I brought it home, and set it on the track and ran it as it was to get a base line on the upgrades....It ran .....well...ok, as to be expected for a Pullmor AC growler, ran it for about 15-20 minutes, as it got warm dragging a 25 car consist, it did the usual speed up slow down thing as all of these do when the temps rise....So time  to tear down. I’m gonna skip right to the good stuff as most of y’all know how to get a shell off.....I’ll start by adding I’ve done bunches of these, so I know right where to cut, and right where to shave....first thing is to pucker up, and start cutting....I just slowly and methodically lop off the entire back of the motor/ body mount, I’ll fabricate new body mounts in a bit, and post them as I update the thread......next thing to do is fab the new motor mount from a thick 1/2 inch washer that I’ll machine for counter sunk screws. I use a thick nylon spacer between the new motor mount and the chassis (serves two purposes 1st it cuts down motor noise, 2nd, I find a spacer necessary for cab clearance) I still have some trimming to do on the nylon block as  evident in the picture.....Don’t laugh at my tiny flywheel coming up in updates!! ...it’s just enough to keep the locomotive from jerking to a stop, and that’s all I need .....as the units get finished, I run the snot out of them with a rectifier, then once they perform like I want, then I’ll add ERR and all the goodies.....finished, out the shops, with ERR, fan driven smoke, and a railsounds package, I can keep the cost very comfortable....and I must add, not having traction tires, working these pups on a long drag with some wheel slip is a heck of a lot fun and very dramatic....looks neat as ......you know what............PatDADCABE1-53FD-4CDE-B79A-FE539E6A42990C315024-E5B2-4ED1-9ED4-164D22745D2016202465-3A40-41D7-94D5-3E48890AA381A803AA75-4257-4C88-8057-5BBCEE561BD535188C7F-CE83-474B-9F02-423B66AB9B61E41C6EAA-9747-4F8C-B095-707A4256272B

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Norton posted:

Very elegant Pat. The Pittman appears to be angled slighty down in front. Did you cut the back of frame at some angle and if so what is that angle?

Pete

Pete, yes....the the back of the chassis is cut at an angle. Actually, I sneak up on this measurement with a good ol’ fashioned angle finder. The purpose of the tilt is for some critical spacing. First, the bottom of front side of the motor and mount have to be at that point..obviously some clearance has to be made in the shell casting to allow the Pittman to fit. The Pittman is at its lowest point to still allow clearance for the drawbar pivot point, and not having to hog out so much of the shell casting up near the cab where the material thickness gets critical. So, from that point, the motor is tilted 12 degrees up in the rear to allow just enough clearance for the second trailing truck pivot to swing and the ash pan to sit back in the factory location...thus, no outward modification is necessary to it. When I fab the new body mount, a small tab will be added to it to fasten the ash pan and trailing truck assembly right back at its factory location. Which is simply enough on even with the bottom of the chassis. The angle of the motor works fine through a lot of testing. The bell mouth of the drive shaft and motor shaft couplers is forgiving enough not to tear up driveshafts. I experience no binding or galding of the driveshaft. Obliviously this is a very invasive repower, so I want to keep all the cutting and hogging at least down to a dull roar!...hence the angle is the least invasive...as can be anyways....but well worth the effort as these run super smooth when finished........Pat

laz1957 posted:

Hi PAT,

  Looks great!!!  Question for you,. I have a Lionel Mohawak, 18064 would this motor work in that?  What is the number on this motor and where can I find one if it would work?  The Mohawk is a Pullmore motor same as the 18009 but it has TMCC. Thanks for your time.

This is exactly the same set up as the 18064. I’ve already converted 2 of those locomotives, as the NYC fielded a bunch of Mohawks, so I have about a dozen, with 7 completed so far....I’ll post up part numbers a little later, as I’m running around doing holiday stuff for my wife....the 18064 is already tmcc, so with an ERR cruise M, a R4LC board and a little re-route on the mother board, this is easily swapped over to Cruise M and you can retain IR sensor, and all the factory railsounds. Only thing I add to all the Mohawks is a MTH PS1smoke unit. The antique puffer system has got to go...no bueno!....Pat

Jayhawk500 posted:

I too am interested! I have my CSS I would love to convert to a Pittman motor. Please post up all the parts information as you go.

I do notice that in one picture the motor says 12v dc. Is this a problem since we're using about 18vac and then converting it through a DC Commander? Just curious.

 

No, it’s not an issue, I never see a full 12 volts on the motor, if it did...it’d be doing Mach III .....LOL!............Pat

laz1957 posted:

Hi PAT,

  Looks great!!!  Question for you,. I have a Lionel Mohawak, 18064 would this motor work in that?  What is the number on this motor and where can I find one if it would work?  The Mohawk is a Pullmore motor same as the 18009 but it has TMCC. Thanks for your time.

George, here is your 18064 mohawk, this one has a 9234 Pittman, ERR cruise M and MTH PS1 smoke unit, smoke element is wired to the TMCC and the fan driver is simply wired via track power through an on/off switch. I just use a micro switch on a bracket that runs off the original smoke lever to put it in time with the chuff...I have all the super chuffer and chuff generator to install in this unit, I just haven’t done it yet, it’s not due for servicing yet...I’m only at 30 some odd hours, at  50 hours it’ll be due a PM anyways, so then I’ll install that....this thing runs real good!....at least I’m happy with it....Pat

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harmonyards posted:
laz1957 posted:

Hi PAT,

  Looks great!!!  Question for you,. I have a Lionel Mohawak, 18064 would this motor work in that?  What is the number on this motor and where can I find one if it would work?  The Mohawk is a Pullmore motor same as the 18009 but it has TMCC. Thanks for your time.

George, here is your 18064 mohawk, this one has a 9234 Pittman, ERR cruise M and MTH PS1 smoke unit, smoke element is wired to the TMCC and the fan driver is simply wired via track power through an on/off switch. I just use a micro switch on a bracket that runs off the original smoke lever to put it in time with the chuff...I have all the super chuffer and chuff generator to install in this unit, I just haven’t done it yet, it’s not due for servicing yet...I’m only at 30 some odd hours, at  50 hours it’ll be due a PM anyways, so then I’ll install that....this thing runs real good!....at least I’m happy with it....Pat

WOW PAT that is an awesome sounding and running engine.  Looking forward to the steps it took to get this way.  Man that is super!!!  I have a TAS smoke unit will this work, with the super chuffer, in this engine?

laz1957 posted:
harmonyards posted:
laz1957 posted:

Hi PAT,

  Looks great!!!  Question for you,. I have a Lionel Mohawak, 18064 would this motor work in that?  What is the number on this motor and where can I find one if it would work?  The Mohawk is a Pullmore motor same as the 18009 but it has TMCC. Thanks for your time.

George, here is your 18064 mohawk, this one has a 9234 Pittman, ERR cruise M and MTH PS1 smoke unit, smoke element is wired to the TMCC and the fan driver is simply wired via track power through an on/off switch. I just use a micro switch on a bracket that runs off the original smoke lever to put it in time with the chuff...I have all the super chuffer and chuff generator to install in this unit, I just haven’t done it yet, it’s not due for servicing yet...I’m only at 30 some odd hours, at  50 hours it’ll be due a PM anyways, so then I’ll install that....this thing runs real good!....at least I’m happy with it....Pat

WOW PAT that is an awesome sounding and running engine.  Looking forward to the steps it took to get this way.  Man that is super!!!  I have a TAS smoke unit will this work, with the super chuffer, in this engine?

George, I’ve never used any TAS products, so I can’t say yes or no.....hopefully GRJ will see this and lend his expertise....Pat

Pat,

Does the conversion put the rear of the motor close to the inside of the backhead?  I can sure appreciate the neatness of execution and simplicity of the new mount.  I have a feeling I'll be basically copying your methods when I tackle my CV Hudson.

BTW,  have any experience using Faulhaber motors?  I put one rated at 24V into a C&O L1.  Under CC the top speed is rather lazy but the silence is a pure joy.  Finally, an engine worth running!

Bruce

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