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I am considering the purchase of a Lionel BTO Ten-Wheeler 4-6-0 steam locomotive - item number 6-82272 with Legacy control.

1) When was this model delivered to BTO purchasers?

2) Have there been any significant mechanical/electrical issues reported by owners?

3) Does the model operate well when run conventionally from an MTH Z-4000 transformer?

4) Is the tender coal load real or cast in?

5) Are major boiler details separately applied or cast in?

6) How are the sounds (whistle, bell, chuffing) in conventional?

Thanks for taking time to reply.

MELGAR

 

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When you see one for a reasonable price  - snap it up. They have great sounds and run perfectly.

I have the NYC on the first release and the only issue I had was the smoke unit on/off. For some reason the only way I could shut it off was with the TMCC remote. I sent it back and Lionel repaired it at no cost.

Great little engine.

My new Lionel 6-82272 New Haven 4-6-0 Ten-Wheeler #816 arrived today in perfect condition. It is a great-looking engine! I did a brief test run (conventional) and everything operated properly. The whistle and bell are terrific and I really like the chuffing which is very realistic - four chuffs per driver revolution. I’m glad that I made the purchase. Thanks to NORTON, JDADDY, RICKO and SINCLAIR who took the time to help me with their advice.

MELGAR

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s-l1600 [44)s-l1600 [39)s-l1600 [40)s-l1600 [42)s-l1600 [41)Looking forward to getting it as it's my first o-gauge ten wheeler and first modern Lionel engine. Got tired of looking at the same old drive wheels on Railking steamers and needed something different. It's a Frisco Lionel #6-38043 .Watched a few videos on YouTube and really love the deep chuffing and the whistle sounds great!s-l1600 [39)s-l1600 [43)s-l1600 [40)s-l1600 [43)

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Last edited by Kittytrain1969

I just bought a rather new version, the Soo Line #2645, although it is a generic engine with different roadnames, since our Museum has the real engine, I wanted to get it. I was extremely impressed with the operation, in TMCC mode. I didn't realize it had whistle smoke, and the "steam" coming out is super, unlike my Lionel UP 4-12-2! The new to me version of smoke output is interesting. Three taps of the button increases output with each tap, and vice versa to shut off the smoke. I like the white lights of the class lamps, and it sounds like if I had Legacy, I could change the color to green for a "second section". The instructions also mentioned a number of different whistles, which I did not know existed. Glad to see that feature is now available, but I will need to buy a Legacy set to do this. Now to investigate how good a Legacy system is. Another item I liked was Lionel put a more accurate headlight on the engine. The Soo Line for many years used the same style headlight that was always on the N.P. locomotives; and it has lit numbers on the two sides and the front top like it should! I wish it did have a back up tender headlight, but........These are some of my observations with what I feel are new nice upgrades from Lionel's original releases. Full price paid at $749

Anybody want to buy a non-working Ten wheeler?  I figured it was a 50/50 chance it would work and it kind of does. It's nicer than I thought and would love to get it fixed, but I don't know who does that sort of thing. It moves forward and reverse very slowly, regardless of how much power I apply. The engine sounds work, as do the shutting down sequence, horn and bell, but no chuffing. I'm assuming it's a blown board or something?  It was a terrible packing job! The box was well protected, but they didn't wrap the engine and tender, so it bounced around inside the foam. Some people.  Anybody have any idea's of what it might be? I LOVE the whistle! It has this reverb to it, very cool.

Anybody want to buy a non-working Ten wheeler?  I figured it was a 50/50 chance it would work and it kind of does. It's nicer than I thought and would love to get it fixed, but I don't know who does that sort of thing. It moves forward and reverse very slowly, regardless of how much power I apply. The engine sounds work, as do the shutting down sequence, horn and bell, but no chuffing. I'm assuming it's a blown board or something?  It was a terrible packing job! The box was well protected, but they didn't wrap the engine and tender, so it bounced around inside the foam. Some people.  Anybody have any idea's of what it might be? I LOVE the whistle! It has this reverb to it, very cool.

Kittytrain1969,

     Are you using a Legacy Cab2 to run the engine? If so make sure the train brake is not on. If there is a solid blue line at the bottom of the Legacy display screen the brake is on. Slide the brake lever up and down a few times to free as sometimes they stick on. Once the solid blue line is gone the brake is off. Good luck, If it is truly needs fixing try GRJ or my guy Alex M for repairs.

JohnB

Kitty train, a couple of thoughts. Is this your first Lionel engine with Odyssey control ?  They do start out slow but should follow your throttle commands. I believe the engine you have is from the first run. The chuffing in these is all mechanical. No wireless tether. It could be as simple as the chuff switch. The smoke unit was a plunger type. Does the engine puff smoke ?  The plunger could be stuck. I believe if that happens it can effect the chuff as the same linkage controls both.

My only other idea. EOB was very popular when these were made. They offered a drop in board that increased the speed steps. They accelerated very slowly no matter how fast you turned the throttle. The tach sensor could also control the chuff. Many upgraded just to get 4 chuffs per rev. . The factory gave it only 1. Not saying a conversion was done. Just putting it out there.

First off. What are you using to run the train. Transformer control or Command.  These engines are pretty easy to take apart if you want to take a peek inside. Your problem lies in the engine. Not the tender.

Anybody want to buy a non-working Ten wheeler?  I figured it was a 50/50 chance it would work and it kind of does. It's nicer than I thought and would love to get it fixed, but I don't know who does that sort of thing. It moves forward and reverse very slowly, regardless of how much power I apply. The engine sounds work, as do the shutting down sequence, horn and bell, but no chuffing. I'm assuming it's a blown board or something?  It was a terrible packing job! The box was well protected, but they didn't wrap the engine and tender, so it bounced around inside the foam. Some people.  Anybody have any idea's of what it might be? I LOVE the whistle! It has this reverb to it, very cool.

Although I’d love to buy your ten wheeler, let’s see if we can get you going first,….how are you running the locomotive?….conventional by transformer throttle? Or by TMCC remote?….if running conventional by transformer throttle, look underneath the locomotive and turn off Oddesy control,….now try your locomotive again,….running conventional with Oddesy on, is kinda weird as the low voltage makes the locomotive go very slow,…..if you’re running via a TMCC remote either Cab 1 or Legacy, and you’re still experiencing issues, then yes, the Oddesy system more than likely has gone flaky, or perhaps you don’t have something set quite right in the remote,…

Pat

Thanks to everyone for your input and ideas. I am just using a simple 80 watt Lionel transformer. I think it is the first run of this engine, it has the plug and I think manual smoke. I opened it up and didn't see anything disconnected. The only thing that looked  out of place was, like Dave said, was a metal thing sticking out from the smoke unit, which must be manual. It seemed like it was bent or stuck somehow.  I have used Oddesy units before, but it was a diesel unit and never had problems. I'll bet it's that smoke unit lever.  I'm not sure how to fix this, but will look into it more closely when I get home in the morning. Would be great if it was just stuck. I still might sell it regardless, since I usually use MTH engines.  I'll keep you posted - thanks again for your help !

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OK, I opened up the engine again and paid close attention to the smoke unit lever. As you can see in the photo, the piece is slightly bent back. It's moving now, before it was stuck. The way it is now, the drive rods don't push the lever forward enough for it to trip the chuffing sensor, so I will try and bend it without breaking it and that should do it (?) Again, I will post updates, just in case someone cares. Thanks again to all who helped with this. I understand how it works now and that makes it much easier to work on.20211107_20475320211107_204816

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