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I know that a lot has been written on the topic, but I acquired a roached-out 682 that not surprisingly had the oiler linkage ripped off of both sides.  I'm ready to replace them but the original "rivets" are broken off.  Can anyone help with suggestions on the most effective way to drill out these out so new rivets can be installed?  It seems to be a precise operation.  What's the best type of bit, technique, etc?

Thanks in advance for any help!

-Richard

 

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Is the original broken off flush without any part sticking out.  The replacement part is #682-9, and are pressed in, or pushed in.  They do NOT screw in or out.  The shaft is knurled, to grab the sides of the hole.  If you have any amount sticking out, you could try to use a pair of "dykes/dikes" and try to pry them out.  Short of that, you would need the replacements and find a drill bit the same size, and carefully drill out the hole.

This is a hard repair to effect, the rivets are actually something of a screw . The thread is linear and slightly twisted making difficult to drive them out. You'll need a sub miniature pin driver set to gently hammer them out. The casting needs good support while doing this to insure it isn't damaged. New pins can be obtained from Olson's. They are hard to drill out as the pin is harder than the zinc casting so the drill would rather make a hole in the casting next to the pin.

http://web.ipmsusa3.org/conten...re-punch-and-die-set , these cost more than the locomotive, you might want to consider sending it to a dealer with a good repair station instead.

Bogie

On some shells I've seen, the hole goes all the way through the shell. If so, the broken bit can be tapped through with a small punch, supporting the inside of the shell on the edge of a small anvil, as described by Bogie above.

If not, you can drill from the inside with a small pin vise until you hit the end of the broken pin. Measure carefully so you can locate the hole precisely on the broken off pin. Then tap the pin out either from the outside or the inside, again supporting the surrounding area of the shell on a hard surface.

When replacing the pin you will have to go slowly to be sure you leave clearance for the linkage to move freely. A small dab of epoxy on the inside will help secure the new pin if it is loose in the hole due to the drilling and/or driving out of the old pin.

jim

 

Last edited by Jim Policastro

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