Lionel Chessie T-1 6-18011 Mods

jeremy ferrell posted:
Jayhawk500 posted:
Allegheny48 posted:

Kudos to you, sir.  You have done a magnificent job with a sharp eye to the details.  You will have a one-of-a-kind engine when you are done.  Maybe you can decorate your newly acquired engineer figure to resemble Ross Rowland.  He would be proud.  Also, the front end lighting effects are spot on in my opinion.  Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to a video of the finished engine. 

Brandy posted:

I've followed this project from start to finish, and compared it to the real McCoy, and Sir, I give you an A+ on your effort, and the finished product.

Also an A+ to all of those helpful suggestions...

I'm having Frank Timko do an engine swap on a Lionel 6-18000 0-6-0 Switcher for me soon, and I think you will like the deal that Gunny offered you, and will save  you some bucks...................................Just Sayin!

Thank You Both for the kind words. Stay Tuned, more to come.

You should for sure make the engineer look like Ross Rowland.   Great job man.  Super fun project to watch.   

Your the second one to suggest that I paint Mr. Rowland into the picture. After all, If it wasn't for him, 2101 might have been scrapped, and I wouldn't be doing this now.  It just may happen....Time will tell.

Thank you too for the kind words.

Chris

Jayhawk500 posted:

Its been suggested that I paint Mr. Ross Rowland into the picture. Can I get confirmation that he is in the BLUE coveralls?

chessie-steam-special-s1-2101

It is too difficult to tell since the image is very low resolution.  When Ross pulled throttle on C&O 614 he always wore blue coveralls, an engineer's hat and a red bandana.  He also sported red gloves in those years and used clips on his pants cuffs (similar to what cyclists use) probably to prevent them getting caught on something.  So, if your engineer figure has overalls that should pretty much cover it.  Some of my O scale steamers have Woodland Scenics engineer figures.  They are beautifully cast and painted though a bit pricey.  One is even cast with his left arm in position to grasp the throttle.  The attached images were from videos.  Keep in mind this was almost 10 years after he ran 2101. 

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This is the final product, minus the paint of course. I just needed to be patient and wait for the scotch weld to cure before trying to connect the link to the coupler.

DSCN0025

As I mentioned in my last progress update, This is the leap of faith I was referring too. Up to this point its still completely reversible. It'll have an LED for the headlight just like before. I had to shorten it to get it to fit inside the can. I'm hoping that there will be enough light through the side hole for illuminating the side numbers.

DSCN0024

I called Big Discount Trains in Jersey and have some "Smoke Box Gray" paint coming. If it's a match, Great! If not...I'll be repainting the whole front end of the engine, That way everything matches. So Stay tuned...More to follow.

 

Chris

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Jayhawk500 posted:

This is the final product, minus the paint of course. I just needed to be patient and wait for the scotch weld to cure before trying to connect the link to the coupler.

DSCN0025

As I mentioned in my last progress update, This is the leap of faith I was referring too. Up to this point its still completely reversible. It'll have an LED for the headlight just like before. I had to shorten it to get it to fit inside the can. I'm hoping that there will be enough light through the side hole for illuminating the side numbers.

DSCN0024

I called Big Discount Trains in Jersey and have some "Smoke Box Gray" paint coming. If it's a match, Great! If not...I'll be repainting the whole front end of the engine, That way everything matches. So Stay tuned...More to follow.

 

Chris,

Looks great!!  On your headlight, you might want to lower it a little - in the pictures on Page 3 of this topic, the headlight was lowered on the CSS to be centered on the door - it looks like yours above is a little high.  Lowering it will also make room for your eagle.

Again, great work on the engine - can't wait to see the final product!

You might consider a surface mount headlight at the rear of the headlight housing.  I use those when I upgrade steamers with my Super-Chuffer for the Rule-17 lighting, I need an LED headlight.  They put plenty of light out through the number boards.  I just glue the the 3528 size LED to the rear of the headlight housing.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

You might consider a surface mount headlight at the rear of the headlight housing.  I use those when I upgrade steamers with my Super-Chuffer for the Rule-17 lighting, I need an LED headlight.  They put plenty of light out through the number boards.  I just glue the the 3528 size LED to the rear of the headlight housing.

Thanks John. I'll look into it.

Chris

Jayhawk500 posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

You might consider a surface mount headlight at the rear of the headlight housing.  I use those when I upgrade steamers with my Super-Chuffer for the Rule-17 lighting, I need an LED headlight.  They put plenty of light out through the number boards.  I just glue the the 3528 size LED to the rear of the headlight housing.

Thanks John. I'll look into it.

Would Rule 17 (now known as Rule 5.9.1+) actually apply to an older steam locomotive?  Dimming of a headlight in the presence of an oncoming train would have been manually done by one of the engine crew members.  Just asking.........

Yes, in the real world Rule-17 would be managed differently, and for Legacy you have manual control possible for some locomotives.  However, the standard "automatic" Rule-17 operation that's applied by both Lionel and MTH is to dim the headlight when stopped.  That being the case, I did the same thing with my Super-Chuffer headlight control.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

You might consider a surface mount headlight at the rear of the headlight housing.  I use those when I upgrade steamers with my Super-Chuffer for the Rule-17 lighting, I need an LED headlight.  They put plenty of light out through the number boards.  I just glue the the 3528 size LED to the rear of the headlight housing.

John, Can you make a suggestion on the LED. Digi-key has thousands. I found one, but I think it'll be too bright.

Looking at Digi-key P/N 1416-1931-1-ND.

https://www.digikey.com/produc...16-1931-1-ND/5909378

Chris

I use some generic warm white LED's, email me your address and I'll put a few into an envelope and send them to you.  You will have to solder to them, and I use Liquid Tape to insulate the connections, then put it inside the headlight housing and glue it to the rear.  I typically use fine #28 or #30 wire to wire them.  To light them, the components required are dependent on what electronics you're driving them with.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use some generic warm white LED's, email me your address and I'll put a few into an envelope and send them to you.  You will have to solder to them, and I use Liquid Tape to insulate the connections, then put it inside the headlight housing and glue it to the rear.  I typically use fine #28 or #30 wire to wire them.  To light them, the components required are dependent on what electronics you're driving them with.

Email sent. I'm using your Super-Chuffer. Thanks for the help.

Chris

Jayhawk500 posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use some generic warm white LED's, email me your address and I'll put a few into an envelope and send them to you.  You will have to solder to them, and I use Liquid Tape to insulate the connections, then put it inside the headlight housing and glue it to the rear.  I typically use fine #28 or #30 wire to wire them.  To light them, the components required are dependent on what electronics you're driving them with.

Email sent. I'm using your Super-Chuffer. Thanks for the help.

Consider this Customer Support.

gunrunnerjohn posted:
Jayhawk500 posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use some generic warm white LED's, email me your address and I'll put a few into an envelope and send them to you.  You will have to solder to them, and I use Liquid Tape to insulate the connections, then put it inside the headlight housing and glue it to the rear.  I typically use fine #28 or #30 wire to wire them.  To light them, the components required are dependent on what electronics you're driving them with.

Email sent. I'm using your Super-Chuffer. Thanks for the help.

Consider this Customer Support.

SWEET! You Sir, are truly a Gentleman and a Scholar.

Chris

Throwing out a question....

The ERR AC Commander is void of the bridge rectifier and appears the same in every other aspect to the DC Commander. Other than swapping out the Pullmor motor and installing a DC can motor from Timko, and installing a bridge rectifier on the AC commander board, what other changes need to be made? I know the field wire needs to be removed as well.

The reason I ask is, I really don't like the noisy Pullmor motor, and I've read that the can DC motor will have more torque and smoother operation. Is this true? This engine is not a gear driven engine. The motor is connected using a driveshaft.

Chris

No can do, the AC Commander has different code to manage the different type motor, they are not interchangeable even with the added bridge rectifier.  They used the same PCB, but you'd have to have the code changed as well.  Since only Lionel can change that code, and I really doubt they'll be willing, just buy a Cruise Commander.

The DC can motor that Timko uses isn't a very large motor as it wouldn't fit inside the shell, so I would question the torque improvement.  However, it does make a much nicer running unit, I have one upgraded with the Timko motor and fan driven smoke.  Given the fact that it has no traction tires, I figure the wheels will slip before the smaller motor runs out of torque.

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gunrunnerjohn posted:

No can do, the AC Commander has different code to manage the different type motor, they are not interchangeable even with the added bridge rectifier.  They used the same PCB, but you'd have to have the code changed as well.  Since only Lionel can change that code, and I really doubt they'll be willing, just buy a Cruise Commander.

The DC can motor that Timko uses isn't a very large motor as it wouldn't fit inside the shell, so I would question the torque improvement.  However, it does make a much nicer running unit, I have one upgraded with the Timko motor and fan driven smoke.  Given the fact that it has no traction tires, I figure the wheels will slip before the smaller motor runs out of torque.

Thanks for the reply John. I was just asking...I'll stick with the AC motor for now and see how it does once I get it back together.

I'm basically at a standstill with the mods until I get the necessary paint for the smoke box and boiler front. The smoke box gray was wayyyyyy to dark. It was more of a battleship gray. Plus I need to find a hobby shop that carries brass stock so I can make some more detailed parts.

Chris

Just a quick update and not much else to add. I'm still waiting on my second bottle of gray paint to arrive. In the mean time, I drilled the hole in the headlight and did some filing on the eagle I wanted to mount. It may not be exactly like to real McCoy, but its very close. Other than that...I have to wait for the paint to show up.

DSCN0004

 

Stay tuned! More will definitely follow.

 

P.S. Ift's (see) funny, I've corrected this post 4 times...The Pendleton and Pepsi is kicking in.......

 

P.S.S.  I did make reservations for the wife and I  to ride The Holiday Express in Portland Or. on Dec.3rd. It'll be pulled by the  SP Daylight Special # 4449 all lite up in Christmas lights. Pictures will follow.

Chris

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gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use some generic warm white LED's, email me your address and I'll put a few into an envelope and send them to you.  You will have to solder to them, and I use Liquid Tape to insulate the connections, then put it inside the headlight housing and glue it to the rear.  I typically use fine #28 or #30 wire to wire them.  To light them, the components required are dependent on what electronics you're driving them with.

I received your LEDs today. Thank You Very Much!

 

Chris

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