Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

@dscrockett,

It doesn't really depend on the layout, especially when it's small like yours.  It depends on the load.

How many locomotives will be running simultaneously?  How big is each?  Are they to be pulling any lighted cars?  A smoking caboose?  Freight cars with motorized (track powered operating) stuff in them?  RailSounds diner or operating car?

Are you relying on the rails to carry all the current, or will you have jumper feed wires to track blocks to maintain even voltage around the layout?

Mike

Last edited by Mellow Hudson Mike

Mike: Thanks for your quick response. Plan is to run 2-Lionchief locos. One existing Santa Fe FT starter set (loco plus 3-cars). Later, plan to add a Lionchief steam loco with 3-4 cars (post war), or starter set (which may have some bells and whistles). Switches will initially be operated manually, but may add blue tooth thru the Base 3. Hope this helps, or helps me??

It would help a bunch to know what power-pack you have.  OTOH, most of the LC power packs included in starter sets really wouldn't be up to the task of running more than one locomotive.  I'd get a real train transformer and forget trying to run these with a wimpy DC supply.  The Lionel PowerHouse 180 would be my choice, an excellent and very fast circuit breaker, 180 watts of power available, enough to run at least three of the trains you describe.  I've run three Legacy locomotives with passenger and freight cars on one PowerHouse 180, it's my pick of the litter.

I had started to answer this post earlier and got tied up.

#1 I would say drop using DC. Just because you can specifically run the limited items you listed- no, long term, Lionel engines, cars, and many operating accessories need and require AC and some can be damaged by DC. To say what you have now is all you will ever have or buy is not a good outlook on the hobby. Again, the fact is, AC is the standard, DC is starter sets and limited items, eventually something will likely require AC in the big picture.

#2 Your fastrack switches, while they technically work with DC, do not fully function and at least one color of the indicator light will not work on the remote controls. This is because the fastrack RSC/Lights format is +5 or -5V and with DC you are missing one of the voltages. Again, they work, just not 100% as intended.

#3 Your base 3 comment bothers me. Unless you have or are also getting a CAB1L physical remote, or happen to get a CAB2 remote, to me that's spending $500 on an item I don't think you really based on your comment understand. If you only buy the CAB3 base, and have to use an app- that app is bluetooth already talking directly to the engine.

If you want to give Lionel money- that's fine, but again, just what you said,

@dscrockett posted:

Mike: Thanks for your quick response. Plan is to run 2-Lionchief locos. One existing Santa Fe FT starter set (loco plus 3-cars). Later, plan to add a Lionchief steam loco with 3-4 cars (post war), or starter set (which may have some bells and whistles). Switches will initially be operated manually, but may add blue tooth thru the Base 3. Hope this helps, or helps me??

Again, you are buying Lionchief locos- starter sets. I get the impression you read marketing wrong or do not really understand the Base 3 function.

Add Reply

Post
This forum is sponsored by Lionel, LLC
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×