Is anyone using this bridge as a lift out section? Lionel Product Video says it is designed to be used as a lift out section if you choose to.. Sounds interesting, if it works as advertised..
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Don't see any reason it wouldn't work just fine.
I have been using the older 24" Lionel truss bridge as a manual lift-out for quite a few years.
Rod
Woodson posted:Is anyone using this bridge as a lift out section? Lionel Product Video says it is designed to be used as a lift out section if you choose to.. Sounds interesting, if it works as advertised..
See Mike Reagan's video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeX7AGurYKI&t=8s
I have that bridge and wow is it nice! I think it would work great as a lift out. Just be careful with it.
Jim
LionelAG posted:Woodson posted:Is anyone using this bridge as a lift out section? Lionel Product Video says it is designed to be used as a lift out section if you choose to.. Sounds interesting, if it works as advertised..
See Mike Reagan's video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeX7AGurYKI&t=8s
Thanks, I saw the video.. Mike makes it sound like 'the second coming'... I am interested in how it works 'in the real world'..
Neel
"Just be careful with it." Jim, could you explain further?? Thanks!!
Neel
Rod Stewart posted:Don't see any reason it wouldn't work just fine.
I have been using the older 24" Lionel truss bridge as a manual lift-out for quite a few years.
Rod
Thanks for your input.. What's the part number you used?? What modifications did you have to make??
Neel
Woodson posted:"Just be careful with it." Jim, could you explain further?? Thanks!!
Neel
Yes .. when I pick it up I have the tendency to put my fingers around the die cast parts of the bridge. The fine detail work is made of plastic, and the bridge isn't exactly lite so you cant just one hand it. I don't use mine as a lift out at this point but I have moved it a dozen times trying to develop my "layout" . I don't think it is still in the right place lol Have you seen one in person yet? My first trip I took to the hobby shop I saw it for real and had to have it. The second trip I bought it. Very nice bridge!
I am using it as a lift out ,It works great. I'm using gargraves track .
carsntrains posted:Woodson posted:"Just be careful with it." Jim, could you explain further?? Thanks!!
Neel
Yes .. when I pick it up I have the tendency to put my fingers around the die cast parts of the bridge. The fine detail work is made of plastic, and the bridge isn't exactly lite so you cant just one hand it. I don't use mine as a lift out at this point but I have moved it a dozen times trying to develop my "layout" . I don't think it is still in the right place lol Have you seen one in person yet? My first trip I took to the hobby shop I saw it for real and had to have it. The second trip I bought it. Very nice bridge!
Thanks for the information.. I will be using Gargraves track so I believe I need to purchase 2 transition tracks, 6-12040, and Gargraves #801 O gauge mating pins.. Do you foresee any major problems with that?
cpbill posted:I am using it as a lift out ,It works great. I'm using gargraves track .
Thanks for the information!!
Woodson posted:Rod Stewart posted:Don't see any reason it wouldn't work just fine.
I have been using the older 24" Lionel truss bridge as a manual lift-out for quite a few years.
Rod
Thanks for your input.. What's the part number you used?? What modifications did you have to make??
Neel
Neel;
The one I use is #6-12772, which I think was first cataloged in early 2000's, and I believe it is still produced. Very inexpensive and quite solid, so damage from handling is unlikely. All I did was lay track across it ending right at the ends of the stamped metal base, then screwed it down to the bridge base with cork roadbed underneath. You could also use a suitable glue. There are pins in one end for electrical continuity, and the other end is aligned to the mating track by abutment blocks on the bridge pier; no electrical connection. Works great and takes only seconds to place or remove. I run TMCC, DCS and Legacy with no issues.
You could also use the earlier 24" truss bridge #6-2122, from the late 80's I believe. In many ways it is much more realistic looking. I think it was only produced in "rust" colored plastic. Both it and #6-12772 look way better with a coat or 2 of satin black spray paint IMO.
Rod
Rod,
Thanks you very much for taking the time to give me this information!! It is greatly appreciated..
Neel
no comparison in the two bridges. I suggest you see them both in person before making any plans.
carsntrains posted:no comparison in the two bridges. I suggest you see them both in person before making any plans.
Which bridge numbers are you talking about and which do you think is better?? Thanks!!
Neel
6-82110 hands down .. Its pricey but well worth every penny!
I will see if my wife will take a picture of our 6-82110 bridge.
Does anyone who happens to have the new Lionel Extended Truss bridge have the dimensions for interior height clearance? lionel states clearance for scale rolling stock, i'm curious about my bobbing head cars and other fantasy car clearance. Wondering if anyone can measure from top of rail to lowest point of bridge?
I am using this bridge as a lift out. You do have to make sure that each abutment is level so the bridge will snap into place evenly. Couple of pics.............Paul
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Paul the bridge looks great. Those cross braces at the front look like they are close to that boxcar?
JRMERTZ, picture is misleading but in the video Mike Reagan says it was designed to accommodate all the car heights out there now. Also I was going to use the bridge as is but after studying it I felt it would look better with a girder bridge at each end going into the scenery. And I transitioned to Gar Graves track off the girder bridges. The bridge is pricey but it is one nice looking bridge. I got it at York a year or so ago for a sale price of 200.00 dollars. ....Paul
paul 2 posted:JRMERTZ, picture is misleading but in the video Mike Reagan says it was designed to accommodate all the car heights out there now.. ....Paul
I found it too low for comfort. I don't think it was well thought out for GG1, container cars, or even a steamer with a tall smoke stack. I removed all the cross braces and cut the lower half cross off and put them back. Looks great, carefully done and painted edges to match. Lionel should have done this or similar...Reagan just dismissed the issue. I think 7 inch clearance is a minimum all the way across side to side.
cjack posted:paul 2 posted:JRMERTZ, picture is misleading but in the video Mike Reagan says it was designed to accommodate all the car heights out there now.. ....Paul
I found it too low for comfort. I don't think it was well thought out for GG1, container cars, or even a steamer with a tall smoke stack. I removed all the cross braces and cut the lower half cross off and put them back. Looks great, carefully done and painted edges to match. Lionel should have done this or similar...Reagan just dismissed the issue. I think 7 inch clearance is a minimum all the way across side to side.
Interesting. I've cleaned a few things off the layout when a stack train attempted to roll underneath.
Paul, a very nice install!
cjack posted:paul 2 posted:JRMERTZ, picture is misleading but in the video Mike Reagan says it was designed to accommodate all the car heights out there now.. ....Paul
I found it too low for comfort. I don't think it was well thought out for GG1, container cars, or even a steamer with a tall smoke stack. I removed all the cross braces and cut the lower half cross off and put them back. Looks great, carefully done and painted edges to match. Lionel should have done this or similar...Reagan just dismissed the issue. I think 7 inch clearance is a minimum all the way across side to side.
Do all the cross braces come off easily like with screws? Or did you have to cut them off?
The ends come off with screws but the two middle ones are fastened with bend over tabs. They unbend but you have to be careful not to have the tabs break off.
Was working on the layout and thought I would place the bridge in position. Took a couple of pics with a scale Hy- Cube from Lionel and a wood chip box car which is a bit higher the box car. If I can find them I have scale double stacks in the attic somewhere and while looking I will hunt down the Westinghouse car MTH made to see how that goes through the bridge...........Paul
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Those look great...
Here's a link to them on our website. They list for $300 and we have them sale priced at $229.96.
Steve.......
Can anyone help with the track dimensions for planning purposes? I am trying to plan a layout, and need these dimensions.
Known: 39" from pier to pier. The interior span between piers is about 27" (from Mike's video).
How long is the bridge itself without the piers? (would that be the equivalent of 30" straight, or 29 1/2" or perhaps 29")?
How much track is on each pier (standard setup for Fastrack)? (equivalent to a 4 1/2" piece or a 5" straight?)
Thanks for any help - Ken This is a VERY cool product design.
I am guessing the bridge is equivalent to a 30" straight, and the track on each pier is 4 1/2" to make 39" of track length. The piers overlap the bridge for a support about 1"? so the piers are 5 1/2" square perhaps?
KEN-OSCALE, I measured the bottom of the bridge and it is 30 inches. The length of the brown part of the bridge is 31 3/8. The length of track on the bridge is 31 7/8. The length of track on the bridge abutment has three different lengths 3 5/8, 3 1/2 and 3 3/8 but on the bridge side the three rails are even. The track does not cover the whole abutment. Maybe this might help. Couple of pics......Paul
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