lionel fast track question

Some folks have used glue, but I would not recommend that.   Others have used zip ties to cinch a track section with a knot in the track screw hole, and another knot underneath the layout surface.

Why do you not want to screw the track down?

I am not sure why track would be coming loose unless the fit is not accurate.  Fastrack pulls sections together pretty tight.

O Gauge: the IMAX of Model Railroading, and a multi-sensory experience.

kwisor posted:

hello 

thank you for the replay I would not glue it. I tried zip ties didn't like the why it fit. the most obvious reason is noise transferred to the wood I know it will not be quite but the less noise the better   

kevin

Do you really BELIEVE that some #4 black oxide flathead Phillips sheet metal screws will increase any noise? That's a tale that's never been quantified.

I would suggest to you that fastening the track down snugly will create a closed air pocket in the open areas under the roadbed and make the track as quiet as it can be.

The other obvious benefit is that the track will not separate or move.

If you want quiet operation, don't run any lighted or powered cars with pick-up rollers.

If you are using a foam base, you should use the 4" zip or cable ties because they have the smallest head to fit into the screw head countersink.

 

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Moonman posted:
kwisor posted:

hello 

thank you for the replay I would not glue it. I tried zip ties didn't like the why it fit. the most obvious reason is noise transferred to the wood I know it will not be quite but the less noise the better   

kevin

Do you really BELIEVE that some #4 black oxide flathead Phillips sheet metal screws will increase any noise? That's a tale that's never been quantified.

I would suggest to you that fastening the track down snugly will create a closed air pocket in the open areas under the roadbed and make the track as quiet as it can be.

The other obvious benefit is that the track will not separate or move.

If you want quiet operation, don't run any lighted or powered cars with pick-up rollers.

If you are using a foam base, you should use the 4" zip or cable ties because they have the smallest head to fit into the screw head countersink.

 

HIP HIP Hooray Carl Tired of reading about peoples OBSESSION with Fastrak noise.Nick

                                                                                                                             

Überstationmeister posted:

What about the binder clip solutionWorks.

Do you really BELIEVE that some #4 black oxide flathead Phillips sheet metal screws will increase any noise? That's a tale that's never been quantified.

YES. I have a world class case of Tinnitus and can easily discern the difference in N-O-I-S-E when Fastrack is screwed down to plywood. Yes, I'm qualified to quantify.

What does work is to cut fit and glue foam roadbed to the bottom of the Fastrack. It became quickly apparent that it was more trouble and expense than it was worth. 

kwisor posted:

... what do you use to keep track from coming loose with out screws 

ADCX Rob posted:
nvocc5 posted:

Has any found a solution to the problem of walking apart Fastrack...

I use 25mm binder clips from the dollar store if/when needed, on the bottom of FasTrack. You can remove the "handles" easily leaving just the spring if you want.

ADCX Rob posted:

I stole the idea from the HO-1/64 slot car realm - the banked turn sections come with similar spring clips for the mating sections to add rigidity to the raised sections.

 

I use the 25mm clips on cut pile carpeting, GRJ likes the 15mm clips.

Rob

I take the loose joint, and simply bend the pins slightly to make a tighter connection. I have over 40 switches and a few hundred feet of track that is only held together by the pins. If there is a poor electrical connection, (I have never had a joint comes loose), I simply bend the pins on both sides of the joint to make the connection tight and electrically sound. Have had no real problems for years.

Joe K

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