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Have a 75 foot layout. Bought some new 10 inch straight track, some used 30 inch track and some used 036" curves and had a loop that came with a train set. Decided for smooth and constant voltage to solder all tracks together with 60/40 rosin core electrical solder and 16 gauge speaker wire. All new 10 inch track soldered together with no problem. 10 inch track that came from a train set and curves would not take solder. All used 30 inch track took solder and a few curved sections did as well. I am stumped as why some Fastrack soldered with no problem and others would not. Any ideas?

Last edited by turfman
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I am thinking that the Fastrack must vary from batch to batch. I got mine pretty much all at the same time, about seven years ago now. I never could get the plating on mine to tin, even with flux. I had to grind it off with a dremel. Sandpaper didn't do it. Once the plating was completely gone, I could tin the bare steel.

When I solder to tabs, I use a thin screwdriver to lift one side of the tab place the wire on the other tab, and bend the lifted tab over the other tab, pinching the wire between.  This provides a mechanical connection as well as an electrical connection... soldering works best when you provide a mechanical and electrical connection.

Consolidated Leo posted:

Have you tried using the .110 inch crimp connectors on the underside of some of the FasTrack? I think they're called "quick disconnect" type connectors.

I've used them to go from track to track with all of the wires hidden beneath the roadbed. The 10 inch straights are easier to do this way than the curves.

Just an idea.

  -- Leo

Was going to be my next step. thank you

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