I bought Lionel Fastrack about 6 months ago from different vendors and put it in the closet. I now have my new layout far enough along where I got out the track. However, about 50% of the track, even the new switches, has rust on them. I thought the rails were plated. If I use 2500 grit sandpaper, I can get most of it off, but the pits where the rust originated is still there. Anyone else have this issue? This was all new track. 
Replies sorted oldest to newest
All I can say is that closet must have had very high humidity! 
I had Fastrack for many years, and I still have a box of odd-n-ends, and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. It's certainly not new, and a significant amount of it was purchased used years ago.
I'm with John. The only time I've had fastrack rust like that was when it actually got wet.(accidentally left it out on a deck railing after an ebay photoshoot and it rained)
You might want to check that closet and make sure you don't have other issues like mold, or a leak.
You have a humidity problem. I would test and act accordingly (get a dehumidifier) as the track is probably not the only thing that rusted.
Fastrack is picky about its environment. Once it starts rusting, it's only a down hill ride...
I run fastrack in a damp basement with a dehumidifier set at 50% and have never had issues.
@th55 posted:I bought Lionel Fastrack about 6 months ago from different vendors and put it in the closet. I now have my new layout far enough along where I got out the track. However, about 50% of the track, even the new switches, has rust on them. I thought the rails were plated. If I use 2500 grit sandpaper, I can get most of it off, but the pits where the rust originated is still there. Anyone else have this issue? This was all new track.
Never add more scratches to pitted track, sand paper , is bad! bite the bullet and use a better track system
It is apparent to me now that Fastrack is raw unplated steel. No corrosion protection at all. Had I known that, I never would have purchased Fastrack.
You may, indeed, have a humidity control issue. But what do you know about the way the "vendors" stored the track before you bought it? I suspect you had an incipient problem at the time of purchase, made worse by the humidity in your own environment. Sometimes it's hard to see earliest signs of oxidation attacking thinly plated ferritic steel. Once it gets a foothold, however, unchecked with significant humidity reduction it's off-to-the-races!
I believe that FasTrack, like its tubular predecessor, has tinplated steel rails. That said, one has to wonder how that's specified and controlled...and shipped in a seatainer for a long, long ride across an ocean? Little baggies of 'Chiclets' (packages of dessicant) are usually thrown in by the manufacturer to help with the humidity thing, but seldom find their way as an accompaniment at the time of retail sale...and storage in a closet. I suppose some California-style sticker or fine print in a manual suggesting humidity management is in order for the product would be appropriate. But, hey...that's another cost to the product...and a caveat that other track brands/materials/processes may not have to deal with.
Unfortunately, I have to agree with prior responses your plaint. And sandpaper is DEFINITELY the wrong way to go for thin tinplating! The construction of each piece of FasTrack also defies disassembly, de-rusting and re-plating, followed by solid reconstruction in the home workshop...not to mention the cost of time, $$$, and mental torment. Give it to a recycler and move on.
And buy a quality dehumidifier...or two.
It's a bummer situation, for sure. But you're hardly alone in the experience. (Little consolation, I know.)
KD
Well, 2500 grit sandpaper is so fine, I think it would take quite a while to sand through even a thin tinplate coating. It's more like a polishing paper. However, the the rust damage is done so if I could salvage the piece of track with a polish, then I would have to see how it fairs over the next few weeks. I also sprayed some Blaster rust penetrator onto a rag and wiped the tops of all the rails with a damp swipe in an attempt to thwart any further rusting while construction continues. Let's see how that works. The switches were $109.00 each and I would like to see if I can salvage them before I throw all the Fastrack out. Also, I have all the bridges in place and everything is laid out for 48 inch and 36 inch curves. Not sure if other track vendors will have curves and switches match the track plan without having to reset all the bridges. See picture below.
@dkdkrd posted:Little baggies of 'Chiclets' (packages of dessicant) are usually thrown in by the manufacturer to help with the humidity thing, but seldom find their way as an accompaniment at the time of retail sale...and storage in a closet.
Actually, those tiny desiccant bags are marginal, and the instant you open up the package, they are worthless unless baked in an oven for a few hours before re-use. Also, if you look into packaging requirements for humidity control, you'll find it takes a lot more drying agent than is typically packed with model train stuff to be effective for any length of time.
Many a mile of older tubular track has been used successfully after removing some rust. As a start, I would purchase three or four "SandFlex" fine sanding blocks to remove the existing rust. I use Sandflex to clean track but also to remove rust from a bunch of 40 inch straight O track . Since the fine grit is embedded in a rubber like substrate, it is easy to use on track resulting in minimum damage to the surface and does not leave visible scratches like sand paper.
Then use some type of rust inhibitor and as other have said "buy a good de-humidifier". They are a lot less expensive than new track.
It is made by Kingspore but is available rustable places on the internet. Just type in "Sandflex" You only want to use the fine version which comes in a yellow sleeve!
Happy railroading,
Don
I will look for SandFlex tonight when I stop at Lowes.
Next time run an oily rag over the tracks before you store them. I would use a Brite Boy instead of sandpaper.
I would use a rust remover such as EvapoRust on the rails before using an abrasive.
It may not remove all the rust, but it should at least cut down on the amount of sanding needed to restore the track to usable condition.
@th55 posted:I will look for SandFlex tonight when I stop at Lowes.
Lowes or Home Depot do not cary Sandflex. Klingspor is an abrasive company who also runs a chain of woodworking stores. Unless you have a Klingspor store in you area, your best bet for getting the correct product is to Google Sandflex and buy the fine block from one of the suppliers there. Many store will try to sell you sanding blocks but this product is NOT a normal type of sanding block.
Every modeler that I have recommended this product to has come back to say it is the best track cleaning item they have ever used. I have been using them for well over 15 years. If you want this to work, please do not let anyone talk you into a different product.
I am so confident that this product will work for you, I am willing to reimburse you for a block if you do not agree.
Don
I have run into the same issue (With Ross track). I have used a very fine grit wet/dry (like 1000) and it seems to work with the rust (unfortunately, can only blame myself, too much humidity in the area where track was). I understand the idea that rust is a no no, but honestly it is worth trying other options, given the cost of the track if you have switches with the problem that isn't chump change, it could be thousands of dollars depending on how much track. I wasn't familiar with sandflex but I have seen a lot of references t it with cleaning track, looks interesting.
One point people made is true, that likely if you have had rust you cleared it will be more sensitive going forward. As I learned the hard way, a humidity gauge is your best friend, make sure that where you store the track and where your layout is have relatively low humidity (40-45 should be good IME) to keep it from rusting further.
@DGJONES posted:Lowes or Home Depot do not cary Sandflex. Klingspor is an abrasive company who also runs a chain of woodworking stores. Unless you have a Klingspor store in you area, your best bet for getting the correct product is to Google Sandflex and buy the fine block from one of the suppliers there. Many store will try to sell you sanding blocks but this product is NOT a normal type of sanding block.
Every modeler that I have recommended this product to has come back to say it is the best track cleaning item they have ever used. I have been using them for well over 15 years. If you want this to work, please do not let anyone talk you into a different product.
I am so confident that this product will work for you, I am willing to reimburse you for a block if you do not agree.
Don
Available on the big A in various grits and combo's.
Would this be the Sandflex you are referring to?
th55
Hit the three bars at the top left of the OGR home or start page, select "Search" and search for "prevent rust" for ideas.
Charlie
I echo the sentiment of using chemical warfare rather than sanding. Maybe check a place that sells auto paint supplies for the stuff that removes rust and bonds to steel to help prevent future rust.
@Mark Holmgren 110217 posted:I echo the sentiment of using chemical warfare rather than sanding. Maybe check a place that sells auto paint supplies for the stuff that removes rust and bonds to steel to help prevent future rust.
I am not sure there is anything that really removes rust. The stuff I know of 'converts' rust (loctite company made a variation of it called extend) that converted the iron oxide into another compound. Among other things, I wonder about electrical conductivity with that on the rails. The only other rust removers I ever saw were an acidic compound (one was called naval jelly or some such, I remember the smell) and I would be worried what they do.
I have been using fine sand paper to clean and remove rust from my used 027 track for 44 years with no ill effects. My layout has been stored in a unheated and non AC storage building for 10 months a year, in south Louisiana, famous for high humidity so removal of minor rust was a annual process. I use mineral sprites to clean the track for lessor things on the track.
Charlie
Thinking about the OP's track problem, and looking more closely at his photos, I recall some comments from the metallurgists at the automotive components manufacture at which I worked for 30+ years. They did a lot of tinplating of steel.
And it is, indeed, very possible to get a thin tinplate that is porous, more often than not indiscernable to the naked eye. Plating porosity can often be defined within the realm of a few microns.
Found this manufacturer's short explanation re porous tinplating... There is other information in searching on tinplate porosity that delves deeper.
So, the small dots of corrosion on the OP's rails suggests to me a poor plating or problem with the base metal (steel) and its preparation for plating. It also can explain in part why some of us tell a different story about FasTrack...in elevated humidity environments, or not. It can very much be a batch problem at several levels.
Just some added thoughts...
KD
Thanks to DGJones on the recommendation for the SandFlex block. It did better than anything I have tried so far. See the picture below of the same section of track as my original post. You can see that the pitted areas where the rust was are visible but no rust remains in the "holes" so so speak. It only took about 3 passes with the SandFlex block to get it amazingly bright, I will be using this as my track cleaner from here on in. Thank you DGJones.
You need to use some no-ox on those rails. Sanding off the plating exposes the metal which will rust quickly, or you can keep sanding every few weeks.
I had a light coating of rust develop on my Fastrack in my previous home basement over a decade ago. I used a Sandflex block with good results and never had rust ever since. Just the routine oxidation cleaning every 6 months or so. I have been reading about the No-ox and plan to apply that after my next cleaning as a precaution.
-Ed Abbot
I've used a bright boy with good results. Just watch the dust. I don't know if it would eventually find its way into your engines.
Sandflex blocks also sold through Micro-Mark as a track cleaner, the tool people for hobbyists.
-----------------
Agree with Danr above. And the sides of the rails will be a PITA to keep as clean and rust-free using the block...or anything else, for that matter. But that's essentially an appearance thing...a matter of personal 'taste'.
Further, as is true of any tubular plated steel rail, the inside surfaces of the rails are oxidizing/rusting, too. You just can't see it, of course. But it may eventually have an impact on electrical continuity at track joints.
FWIW...
The rust on the sides of the rails is just free instant weathering! 
Look - all the guys will give you the humidity jargon. The track plating is sub- par imho.
I would come very close to calling it doo doo. The only thing I’ve seen….It doesn’t happen to all pieces….so, something in manufacturing?
so much easier to use a track with a solid brass or Nickle silver rail
@Dave Koehler posted:so much easier to use a track with a solid brass or Nickle silver rail
And if I'd used that in place of my Gargraves, I'd have had an additional outlay that I could have spent on a new Vision Line locomotive!
@shawn posted:Look - all the guys will give you the humidity jargon. The track plating is sub- par imho.
I would come very close to calling it doo doo. The only thing I’ve seen….It doesn’t happen to all pieces….so, something in manufacturing?
True, Fastrack is expensive but poor cheap plated tin. Definitely manufacturing issues because some of it you can't solder to it no matter what you try doing to it. Definitely don't leave it out in a hot humid in summer or cold damp garage in winter, or you'll see very quickly it either pitting, rusting, or tarnished on the rails. Unfortunately I had to do that as my first layout had to come down for me to have a hospital bed at home and it was in the garage for 6 years. The hospital bed is gone, finally doing quite a bit better and I'm rebuilding a new layout, trying to use the best of it of what I have been able to salvage. FYI, I also had some MTH Realtrax out in the garage at the same time and that was still in perfect condition. I am running buss wires for both tracks, hot and common, feeder wires to every 6 sections of Fastrack, plus soldering jumper wires from every piece of track to the next piece which has greatly improved the electrical conductivity from just the buss and feeder wires. A lot of extra work and a real PITA, but I can't afford to start over with new track being on SSD now, so making the best of what I can do to finally get a layout again.
Not to doubt anyone’s experiences but, I have used Fastrack for more than 10 years and have not seen any of these issues. The first 4 years the track was setup year round in a New York garage with no climate control. It didn’t rust. I have a lot of track and 14 CC switches bought over a number of years. Now I have a 20x20 climate controlled room so I don’t expect see any problems.
I had a ton of Fastrack until I started on this layout, I sold almost all of it. I just have some bits and pieces nobody wanted in a box somewhere now.
@Dave Koehler posted:so much easier to use a track with a solid brass or Nickle silver rail
If you can get it, that hasn't been the case in recent years.
This is why I use Atlas nickel silver track.
Alan
Grease is often used to prevent rust. We have a train rail grease that has been in use for over fifty years that will also improve track conduction to the train wheels and pickups. It is known as NO OX ID special A. It will work on the sides of the rails to prevent rust too.
Charlie
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
