I bought Lionel Fastrack about 6 months ago from different vendors and put it in the closet. I now have my new layout far enough along where I got out the track. However, about 50% of the track, even the new switches, has rust on them. I thought the rails were plated. If I use 2500 grit sandpaper, I can get most of it off, but the pits where the rust originated is still there. Anyone else have this issue? This was all new track. 
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All I can say is that closet must have had very high humidity! 
I had Fastrack for many years, and I still have a box of odd-n-ends, and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. It's certainly not new, and a significant amount of it was purchased used years ago.
I'm with John. The only time I've had fastrack rust like that was when it actually got wet.(accidentally left it out on a deck railing after an ebay photoshoot and it rained)
You might want to check that closet and make sure you don't have other issues like mold, or a leak.
You have a humidity problem. I would test and act accordingly (get a dehumidifier) as the track is probably not the only thing that rusted.
Fastrack is picky about its environment. Once it starts rusting, it's only a down hill ride...
I run fastrack in a damp basement with a dehumidifier set at 50% and have never had issues.
@th55 posted:I bought Lionel Fastrack about 6 months ago from different vendors and put it in the closet. I now have my new layout far enough along where I got out the track. However, about 50% of the track, even the new switches, has rust on them. I thought the rails were plated. If I use 2500 grit sandpaper, I can get most of it off, but the pits where the rust originated is still there. Anyone else have this issue? This was all new track.
Never add more scratches to pitted track, sand paper , is bad! bite the bullet and use a better track system
It is apparent to me now that Fastrack is raw unplated steel. No corrosion protection at all. Had I known that, I never would have purchased Fastrack.
You may, indeed, have a humidity control issue. But what do you know about the way the "vendors" stored the track before you bought it? I suspect you had an incipient problem at the time of purchase, made worse by the humidity in your own environment. Sometimes it's hard to see earliest signs of oxidation attacking thinly plated ferritic steel. Once it gets a foothold, however, unchecked with significant humidity reduction it's off-to-the-races!
I believe that FasTrack, like its tubular predecessor, has tinplated steel rails. That said, one has to wonder how that's specified and controlled...and shipped in a seatainer for a long, long ride across an ocean? Little baggies of 'Chiclets' (packages of dessicant) are usually thrown in by the manufacturer to help with the humidity thing, but seldom find their way as an accompaniment at the time of retail sale...and storage in a closet. I suppose some California-style sticker or fine print in a manual suggesting humidity management is in order for the product would be appropriate. But, hey...that's another cost to the product...and a caveat that other track brands/materials/processes may not have to deal with.
Unfortunately, I have to agree with prior responses your plaint. And sandpaper is DEFINITELY the wrong way to go for thin tinplating! The construction of each piece of FasTrack also defies disassembly, de-rusting and re-plating, followed by solid reconstruction in the home workshop...not to mention the cost of time, $$$, and mental torment. Give it to a recycler and move on.
And buy a quality dehumidifier...or two.
It's a bummer situation, for sure. But you're hardly alone in the experience. (Little consolation, I know.)
KD
Well, 2500 grit sandpaper is so fine, I think it would take quite a while to sand through even a thin tinplate coating. It's more like a polishing paper. However, the the rust damage is done so if I could salvage the piece of track with a polish, then I would have to see how it fairs over the next few weeks. I also sprayed some Blaster rust penetrator onto a rag and wiped the tops of all the rails with a damp swipe in an attempt to thwart any further rusting while construction continues. Let's see how that works. The switches were $109.00 each and I would like to see if I can salvage them before I throw all the Fastrack out. Also, I have all the bridges in place and everything is laid out for 48 inch and 36 inch curves. Not sure if other track vendors will have curves and switches match the track plan without having to reset all the bridges. See picture below.
@dkdkrd posted:Little baggies of 'Chiclets' (packages of dessicant) are usually thrown in by the manufacturer to help with the humidity thing, but seldom find their way as an accompaniment at the time of retail sale...and storage in a closet.
Actually, those tiny desiccant bags are marginal, and the instant you open up the package, they are worthless unless baked in an oven for a few hours before re-use. Also, if you look into packaging requirements for humidity control, you'll find it takes a lot more drying agent than is typically packed with model train stuff to be effective for any length of time.
Many a mile of older tubular track has been used successfully after removing some rust. As a start, I would purchase three or four "SandFlex" fine sanding blocks to remove the existing rust. I use Sandflex to clean track but also to remove rust from a bunch of 40 inch straight O track . Since the fine grit is embedded in a rubber like substrate, it is easy to use on track resulting in minimum damage to the surface and does not leave visible scratches like sand paper.
Then use some type of rust inhibitor and as other have said "buy a good de-humidifier". They are a lot less expensive than new track.
It is made by Kingspore but is available rustable places on the internet. Just type in "Sandflex" You only want to use the fine version which comes in a yellow sleeve!
Happy railroading,
Don
I will look for SandFlex tonight when I stop at Lowes.
Next time run an oily rag over the tracks before you store them. I would use a Brite Boy instead of sandpaper.
I would use a rust remover such as EvapoRust on the rails before using an abrasive.
It may not remove all the rust, but it should at least cut down on the amount of sanding needed to restore the track to usable condition.
@th55 posted:I will look for SandFlex tonight when I stop at Lowes.
Lowes or Home Depot do not cary Sandflex. Klingspor is an abrasive company who also runs a chain of woodworking stores. Unless you have a Klingspor store in you area, your best bet for getting the correct product is to Google Sandflex and buy the fine block from one of the suppliers there. Many store will try to sell you sanding blocks but this product is NOT a normal type of sanding block.
Every modeler that I have recommended this product to has come back to say it is the best track cleaning item they have ever used. I have been using them for well over 15 years. If you want this to work, please do not let anyone talk you into a different product.
I am so confident that this product will work for you, I am willing to reimburse you for a block if you do not agree.
Don
I have run into the same issue (With Ross track). I have used a very fine grit wet/dry (like 1000) and it seems to work with the rust (unfortunately, can only blame myself, too much humidity in the area where track was). I understand the idea that rust is a no no, but honestly it is worth trying other options, given the cost of the track if you have switches with the problem that isn't chump change, it could be thousands of dollars depending on how much track. I wasn't familiar with sandflex but I have seen a lot of references t it with cleaning track, looks interesting.
One point people made is true, that likely if you have had rust you cleared it will be more sensitive going forward. As I learned the hard way, a humidity gauge is your best friend, make sure that where you store the track and where your layout is have relatively low humidity (40-45 should be good IME) to keep it from rusting further.
@DGJONES posted:Lowes or Home Depot do not cary Sandflex. Klingspor is an abrasive company who also runs a chain of woodworking stores. Unless you have a Klingspor store in you area, your best bet for getting the correct product is to Google Sandflex and buy the fine block from one of the suppliers there. Many store will try to sell you sanding blocks but this product is NOT a normal type of sanding block.
Every modeler that I have recommended this product to has come back to say it is the best track cleaning item they have ever used. I have been using them for well over 15 years. If you want this to work, please do not let anyone talk you into a different product.
I am so confident that this product will work for you, I am willing to reimburse you for a block if you do not agree.
Don
Available on the big A in various grits and combo's.
Would this be the Sandflex you are referring to?
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