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So, I hit both replacement frames with a light coat of flat black paint:

After 30 minutes of drying time in my wife's empty outdoor planter, they looked pretty good:

Here's the kitchen table work area:

I accidentally snapped the bend on both little brass stanchions to get the pipe off the original front frame, so I used super glue to hold them in place on the replacement:

 

I only replaced the front frame (left truck in the next 2 pics), as the back frame is still holding its overall shape fairly well (I greased all of the gears, too):

I think semi-gloss black might have been a better paint color choice instead of flat black, but from a few feet away it isn't very noticeable:

I will get some run time on my PRR 4866 tomorrow to see how it fares.  Stay tuned.

Also, I can't thank Henning's Trains enough for tackling this project!

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Tony,

      The 'speckled' truck frame is I believe one of the 1st castings . It was sent to you in error.  We since adjusted the color portion of the mixture. That is the difference between the two. Bill was looking for that casting so it would not get sent out. Somehow I shipped. I will gladly replace if you want w/ another from the next batch.  Adjusting the color also changes the flexibility ( more ridged ) piece.  Harry 

Thanks for that info, Harry!  

No rush on sending me the replacement, but when you get a chance, please do.  I know my original rear frame will eventually need replaced, too.

I can send you back the speckled one at that time, if you would like me to, but it does have a light coat of flat black paint on it!

You'd have to have a good eye to see any difference.  I obviously don't have a good eye.

I see a very minor difference in detail level near the center where the axle is directly behind the truck.  The detail is slightly less defined on the replacement on the left.

But that also could quite probably be because Tony did a spray of flat black over it due to the speckled finish on the prototype that was accidentally sent.  And this is just a sample of looking at these two trucks.  I could possibly note the same looking at a series of originals.  I have never looked at a large number of them side by side before this exercise.

In any event, this is still GREAT, since the alternatives before this quite involved project by Harry was NOTHINGSo great job, Henning's Trains!!

I guess technically once we replace these trucks an "R" should end up on the truck somewhere underneath to show it's not an original part for those of us trying to stick to TCA standards.  But the alternative was obviously worse for the units with the problem!

-Dave

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Last edited by Dave45681

I think anyone finding a plastic sideframe on a JLC GG1 will realize they're not original.

Obviously.  I don't have the benefit of having seen one in person though, so I don't know what senses/examination would be needed for one to observe that.

Imagine asking a seller of one that does have original trucks that are not crumbling if you can squeeze the sides to see if it flexes any.  I'm sure that would be an entertaining conversation to watch.

It was just a passing thought, I'm not trying to derail the topic with that comment.

-Dave

Last edited by Dave45681

The install went well, just a few snags.   To get my old frame out, I did have to remove a small clip held by 2 smaller screws.  This wasn’t too clear in any previous comments.  

Also, the 1 1/2” long shiny metal L pin held down by a larger head screw; Henning’s instructions show a spring on it.  If there was a small spring under mine, it is gone now.  I thought something flew past my nose when I pulled up on the pin with my needle nose pliers, but I could not find a small spring anywhere.   I am not really sure of the small spring’s purpose, as I don’t have any operational issues running without it.

Also, as I stated before, to get the pipe off of the frame, I did snap off the ends of the 2 brass stanchions and had to super glue them in place on the replacement frame.  

Finally, the 2 tiny GG1 plaques are now in a baggie in the original GG1 box.  They fell off of my original frames and I didn’t want to risk losing them if they would fall off the replacement frames. 

Thanks for the information.  I'll let you know how it goes.  Should post by weeks end.  I am so glad this finally happened, I thought my favorite engine was a hanger queen.  I'm a little ticked at Lionel, since they turned their back on us.  And these were not starter sets, they were fairly expensive engines, bought by some of there best costumers.

Last edited by Reading RR
@Tony D. posted:

The install went well, just a few snags.   To get my old frame out, I did have to remove a small clip held by 2 smaller screws.  This wasn’t too clear in any previous comments.  

The small "clip" is to keep the pilot from swiveling up too much, it "contains" it.

Also, the 1 1/2” long shiny metal L pin held down by a larger head screw; Henning’s instructions show a spring on it.  If there was a small spring under mine, it is gone now.  I thought something flew past my nose when I pulled up on the pin with my needle nose pliers, but I could not find a small spring anywhere.   I am not really sure of the small spring’s purpose, as I don’t have any operational issues running without it.

The rod is the spring, it's the centering spring for the coupler on the pilot.  There is no spring on it, at least there wasn't one on mine and it was "factory fresh" and never apart.

Thanks for that info, John!  I might have imagined something zinging by my nose, considering I was doing this near midnight!

In the Henning's instructions, here is what I was calling the L piece that I tugged on with my needle nose pliers to remove:

 

I thought the darker thing on it to the right in the above screen snip was a loose spring, as mine does not have this; it is just a bare-steel pin:

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Mod for the worst one is done, won't do the other till I need to.  Install went fairly well, took about 30 min., hardest part was keeping track of all the little screws.  Tony I used some semi-gloss and that was a little to shinny, so I hit it with a little flat after it dried.  The combo of the two looks very good and a very close color match.  See picture.  New truck on right.  Harry it was worth every penny, test run at the train club this weekend.  Have not attached piping yet as you all can see in the foreground.GG-1 mod

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Last edited by Reading RR

P.S. for my above note.  Save the removing of the truck piping for last, since the old cast truck may not survive. Mine broke into 3 pieces while trying to pry off the piping.  After that I just broke the cast where the piping went through it.  I will trim it up and do like Tony and just glue it to the replacement truck.  Also be very careful with the 2 very tiny screws, I can see them falling inside the engine, luckily none of mine did.  Just a word of caution, you'll see the 2 screws I'm talking about.

Nice update, David! 

The paint combo looks good on your plastic replacement, and the super glue on the 2 pipe stanchions is the way to go.  As I mentioned before, the brass bend snapped on both of my stanchions as I was unbending them.  So, they were too short to bend in place on the replacement frame.   

Hi Tony D,

The centering spring that keeps the pilot wheels straight had a small piece of plastic on it. It looked like shrink wrap that was shrunk snug onto the wire. It's not a spring.

I didn't disassemble the pieces we used for the mold. But when I reassembled the parts I assumed the shrink wrap piece would go under the hold down screw. This would keep the spring wire from rattling around in the metal truck cover's channel. Of course with the part being plastic you wouldn't have the rattle!

Glad to see your liking the part!

Anthony has produced I think 8 sets so far. He is working on 'winterizing' a direlet house  he just bought and  will be moving to next year. He was planning on pouring the parts in between working on his house, but there was no water available and water is needed to cool the mold. He has just this week been connected back up w/ water, so I hope some production will resume. This 'TRUCK ' story is like writing another chapter of an interesting book on home manufacturing in the U.S.A.  Years ago I dabbled into 'TRUSCALE" "O"  wooden ready track w/ nickel silver rail, hand spiked and ballasted, also turnouts.  Next we had an "O" scale kit line, and later the "RAIL LOGIC" bi-directional signal system for HO & "O". Enough for now.  Next week I hope to ship some more backorders of the truck frames.  Harry 

.............  Years ago I dabbled into 'TRUSCALE" "O"  wooden ready track w/ nickel silver rail, hand spiked and ballasted, also turnouts.  .........

Not to derail the truck topic too much, but are you saying that the Tru-Scale line of products was your brand, or that you made something similar to it to match to the Tru-Scale product line?

I have a bunch of those turnouts, but in HO.  They are not with me, so I can't look at the box to see if they have a company address that may match up to Henning's Trains.

-Dave

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