Ran my custom run L&N GP30 for the first time in a month and noticed this crack. Don't know how it happened. Can someone repair this or should I just put a graffiti decal over it?
Attachments
Images (2)
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I'd probably try to fix it from the inside, but without actually seeing it, that's just a guess.
Probably would be a good idea to drill a small hole to keep the crack from spreading before repairing it.
@Johnny Winkler posted:Ran my custom run L&N GP30 for the first time in a month and noticed this crack. Don't know how it happened. Can someone repair this or should I just put a graffiti decal over it?
First when making the repair do not use any type of crazy glue. Use a model glue for plastics. Once glued from the inside, see if you can put a thin piece of plastic over the crack. Tape off the outside and use a modelers filler to close the gap if any, smooth out and match paint.
I'd try fixing from the inside and dispense with the painting. You'll find it will be VERY difficult to exactly match the paint. If you close up that crack and just leave it, my feeling is it will look better than trying to paint it. I agree with not using CA adhesive, too messy for this job.
Thank you everyone. Think I will just take a loss and sell it.
I am wondering if it was that way from the factory and you just did not notice it ? I have received damaged items new in the box and missed it for several days. Even though I thought I had given the item a good inspection when first opened. I wish I could examine it in person. That "crack" has an unusual formation usually a stress crack tapers to a hair line at the top. That crack seems to end as wide at the top as it is at the bottom. That looks like a molding problem more gap than crack. Two questions. Are you up for removing the body from the chassis ? Do you have the ability to make macro photos ? Some really close pix from all three sides outside, inside, and the bottom of the crack while shining a light through it. Would help tell the story. Look at it with a jewelers loop. Is there any paint on the mating faces of the crack ? If so then the crack / gap was there when it was painted. If it is a crack you should be able to push it closed. Once you determine if it is in fact a crack we will discuss a solution. I will have to make or find a similar crack then make photos of how to close the gap and make an invisible repair. I don't want to waste the time if it is a gap and not a crack. j
@JohnActon posted:I am wondering if it was that way from the factory and you just did not notice it ? I have received damaged items new in the box and missed it for several days. Even though I thought I had given the item a good inspection when first opened. I wish I could examine it in person. That "crack" has an unusual formation usually a stress crack tapers to a hair line at the top. That crack seems to end as wide at the top as it is at the bottom. That looks like a molding problem more gap than crack. Two questions. Are you up for removing the body from the chassis ? Do you have the ability to make macro photos ? Some really close pix from all three sides outside, inside, and the bottom of the crack while shining a light through it. Would help tell the story. Look at it with a jewelers loop. Is there any paint on the mating faces of the crack ? If so then the crack / gap was there when it was painted. If it is a crack you should be able to push it closed. Once you determine if it is in fact a crack we will discuss a solution. I will have to make or find a similar crack then make photos of how to close the gap and make an invisible repair. I don't want to waste the time if it is a gap and not a crack. j
This engine went back to Lionel twice over the smoke unit.It is possible the crack was there but not as noticeable until now. My trains are in an unheated garage and the temperature got below freezing for several nights.. Maybe that caused it to open more. Also I don't expect any help from Lionel or the dealer because it is a custom run and no more of these are available.
My question, before you sell it, is it under warranty? I had this same issue with a legacy sw1200 last year. Cracks were radiating from the stacks, stress. I sent it back to Lionel, they said it was an issue with the loco but had no replacement shells and to take it back to the dealer. The dealer said it was not their problem and to send back to Lionel. This went on for a week. I told the dealer I was going to file a claim with my credit card, he said he would suit me. I filed it and I won. They refunded me the entire amount and of course no suit. First it was only $489 and 2nd you have to file a credit card suit in the county and state of the purchaser.
@Cincytrains posted:My question, before you sell it, is it under warranty? I had this same issue with a legacy sw1200 last year. Cracks were radiating from the stacks, stress. I sent it back to Lionel, they said it was an issue with the loco but had no replacement shells and to take it back to the dealer. The dealer said it was not their problem and to send back to Lionel. This went on for a week. I told the dealer I was going to file a claim with my credit card, he said he would suit me. I filed it and I won. They refunded me the entire amount and of course no suit. First it was only $489 and 2nd you have to file a credit card suit in the county and state of the purchaser.
Like I said earlier there are no replacement shells and MrMuffins Trains has been very good to me in the past so I don't want to cause them problems. I will contact them tomorrow when they are open.
I have a new in box once ran to program legacy L&N GP30 custom run from Mr. Muffins latest release which consisting your are a local Tennessee resident I would part with at my costs. I am a member KAMR (Knoxville Area Model Railroaders) which meets Tuesday evening weekly at 6:00 PM in Oak Ridge at the Children's Museum. If interested send me a reply. I cannot fix your locomotive but this may make your Christmas brighter. I am in agreement Steve at Mr. Muffin is a fine gentleman to do business.
@SouthernFan56 posted:I have a new in box once ran to program legacy L&N GP30 custom run from Mr. Muffins latest release which consisting your are a local Tennessee resident I would part with at my costs. I am a member KAMR (Knoxville Area Model Railroaders) which meets Tuesday evening weekly at 6:00 PM in Oak Ridge at the Children's Museum. If interested send me a reply. I cannot fix your locomotive but this may make your Christmas brighter. I am in agreement Steve at Mr. Muffin is a fine gentleman to do business.
Thank you very much for the offer. I need to think about it for a few days. Looks like I am committed to fixing my engine as no one wants to buy an old cracked one .
Check the chassis. I had a MTH locomotive do this. The frame warped and cracked the shell.
@ThatGuy posted:First when making the repair do not use any type of crazy glue. Use a model glue for plastics. Once glued from the inside, see if you can put a thin piece of plastic over the crack. Tape off the outside and use a modelers filler to close the gap if any, smooth out and match paint.
This ^^^^^^^
Use a solvent cement from the inside.
Pete
@Norton posted:This ^^^^^^^
Use a solvent cement from the inside.
Pete
The use of solvent glue on Lionell plastic locomotives can have the effect of melting the shell lifting the paint and causing more damage than it’s worth. Your advice is ridiculous. He should use a good plastic glue one made for models that will not melt the shell or discolor.
Good news. I am sending the engine to Harry Hieke for repair and weathering. MrMuffins Trains has even offered to pay half of Hieke's bill. I don't think I would still be in this hobby if it were not for MrMuffins and especially Jeff being so helpful to me the past few years.
