Lionel Lite Sound Card and Lionel 6-18285 Dash 9-44CW

@Harbor posted:

Hello everyone, this is Mike, a Newbie to O-Gauge Railroading. I have a couple of questions to start the 2023 season. I have a ERR Cruise Commander installed in one of my Diesel Locomotives and would like to change my Sound Card. A fellow railroader has a Lionel Railsounds Lite / Diesel / Legacy / SD-80 MAC - 691RSL2045 Sound Card for sale at a great deal.

It looks exactly like the ERR Diesel Sound Card with the exception it has connectors soldered to terminal J3 and J8. Will this Lionel Lite Sound Card be plug and play with the ERR Cruise Commander?

NO, the serial code is different, that board won't work with the ERR Cruise Commander.

@Harbor posted:

My second question is concerning my Lionel 6-18295 Dash 9-44CW. Whenever I give initial throttle input (whether forward or reverse) via my TMCC Cab1 Remote, the locomotive has a momentary jerk. Afterwards it operates completely normal. The only time it repeats this condition is when I power-off the track and start the process over again. It doesn't really bother me as much as the reason why it does this. History: this is a stock locomotive and the only repair made since owning is the replacement of the flywheel and tach ring with the use of the Timko's Flywheel Puller tool.

You are experiencing the very common Odyssey Lurch.  Some Odyssey I speed control engines have it, some don't.

Thanks for your help, have a great day!

Hello Gunrunner, I've recalled a post when you spoke of bolting the triac of a Lionel Diesel Locomotive's AC Regulator to the frame.

I have a Lionel Norfolk Southern SD-80 MAC 6-28240. I will be replacing the AC Regulator. Can you provide a pictorial illustration of the triac bolted to the frame?

Thanks, Mike

I don't have any shots of it, but it's not rocket science.  You do need the insulating hardware as the triac metal back can't contact the frame.  For TMCC regulators, you have to split the heatsink to get the triac bent out where you can bolt it to the frame.

Thanks for the response. When you get time, no hurry, please let me know what insulating hardware I need or where to purchase it. Thanks

Since the screw hole is insulated, you really just need the insulating pad.

It's a TO-225 package, but you can use the much more common TO-220 insulator and trim the sides a bit.  Aavid 56-77-11G

I have been doing some research since your response on the insulating kit. It appears that I need to acquire a suitable heat sink or find a way to insulate to the locomotive frame. Would that be correct?

The Aavid 56-77-11G thermal pad I linked is what you need to insulate it from the chassis.  What I do is drill and tap the chassis for a 2.5mm screw, stick the pad under and bolt it down.

Thanks for the info, will do. I will confirm when it's complete. Thanks, Mike