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We moved to a new house that has a 2 car garage so that gives me a lot more room for a layout, I have a lot of O27 track and all my stuff is O27 and Marx sized. All is PW and MPC. Looks like I’ll stay with the O27 track

 So what I need to know is, do any of the O27 Lionel switches have a constant power connection or which is the best one to modify and how is that done. This will be used for a reversing loop.

I have read K-line made a good switch w/ constant power, in fact I posted in the” wanted to buy section”  looking for the  K-line.

 

I’ll be going to a show on Saturday and I’m sure I’ll find some Lionel switches but just don’t know which ones to get.

 

Thanks a lot for any information

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If you are actually running Marx, you will want the Lionel 1121 switches as opposed to 1122/1122E which have guard rails that will derail the Marx(& Lionel, for that matter) engines that have large gear wheel / single reduction motors.

None of the Lionel O-27 switches are equipped for constant voltage... but can be converted like this...

The 1121 can be similarly modified,  although they are not natively non-derailing, they can be made to do so for reverse loops with insulated track sections leading up to the switch or using Lionel's similar method with track trips:



Last edited by ADCX Rob

None of the Lionel O-27 profile switches have stock constant voltage connections. I cannot comment on the K-Line. Growing up on O-27, I'm glad I decided on using O proper for my first permanent layout, and would suggest you do the same if you have the space. Opens so many more possibilities. Plus, the O22s are bullet proof once serviced and have constant voltage plugs, and coils that turn off.

oldpa posted:

 So what I need to know is, do any of the O27 Lionel switches have a constant power connection or which is the best one to modify and how is that done. This will be used for a reversing loop.

I have read K-line made a good switch w/ constant power, in fact I posted in the” wanted to buy section”  looking for the  K-line.

 

Yes, the K-line 027 "low profile" switches are the best bet IMO because they function similar to regular 0-gauge 022 switches, if you can find them....

NOT THESE;

 

but THESE are better;because the don't "buzz" and overheat if a train parks on them.

note: photos show manual switches but they come in remote as well......just sayin'.....

 

Last edited by Penn-Pacific

Thanks guys for the the fast replies

I feel confident that I can make the modifications needed for the # 1121 switches. I think I’ll use heat shrink tubing instead of tape where I can.

 

Rob, could you explain a bit more about the use of insulating pins and their placement location in the track.

 

If I should find some K-line switches at a fair price I might jump on them.

 

Greg

 

PS, just curious what was the difference between the 1121 and 1122 &1122E

oldpa posted:
Rob, could you explain a bit more about the use of insulating pins and their placement location in the track.

Here is an enhanced version of the Lionel diagram - blue insulated rails, fiber pins at red circled locations:

1121 Non Derail

oldpa posted:
If I should find some K-line switches at a fair price I might jump on them.

 All of the K-Line remote switches have constant voltage provisions, here are the O-27 versions:

K-Line O-27 SW [2)K-Line O-27 SW [1)

b

oldpa posted:
PS, just curious what was the difference between the 1121 and 1122 &1122E

The 1121 does not have non-derailing designed in(but the above diagram fixes that).

1121:

1121

1122(1952):

1122

1122(E)(1953-1969):

1122E

Attachments

Images (6)
  • 1121 Non Derail
  • K-Line O-27 SW (2)
  • K-Line O-27 SW (1)
  • 1121
  • 1122
  • 1122E

UPDATE: Still no luck with finding the K-line 0266,0266 switches but will have my eyes open for a pair, however I did find at a train show on Saturday 2 Lionel #1121 and 2 # 1122 switches, all working and paid only $20.00 for all 4

 

I was looking around youtube and found this:

 

youtube

 

The 2 #1122 were converted to day and work great. The mechanical part was straightforward but I don’t understand the use of the addition electrical parts.  I have no problem doing the electrical work; I just don’t understand the reasoning behind it.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGNLN2MA7x0

Greg

oldpa posted:
The mechanical part was straightforward but I don’t understand the use of the addition electrical parts.  I have no problem doing the electrical work; I just don’t understand the reasoning behind it...

You have take a few moments to picture what will happen when you park a train on a 1122/1122E that has been modified for fixed voltage...

The longer you ponder the fact that the switch remains "on" or activated, the switch machines are not shutting off like they do with 022/711/112/112R/K-Line switches... those switch machine solenoids are heating up...

So what the capacitor circuit does is limit the current to the solenoids while the non-derailing circuit(s) are bridged/activated and allows for the discharge of the capacitor to activate the switch(after the capacitor charges while the switch is clear of any rolling stock). This charging needs the DC to accomplish.

Same basic functionality, sans those big red & green bulbs atop the solenoids. On the K-Line though, the controllers also indicate the switch position, not impossible to do with the 1122/1122E, but difficult & would require at least one & maybe 2 snap/micro/Cherry switches to be incorporated into the switch mechanism... and if you do that, the capacitor discharge circuit would not be needed.

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