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Hey all,

I have a Lionel NP Lionmaster Challenger from 2004.  Bought it new and ran it for a month or so, then put it away.  It ran perfectly back then.   I took it out a couple weeks ago and everything still works as it should, except it now has the dreaded "Odyssey 1 Runaway" syndrome.  I have read dozens of entries about it here in the OGR Forum, and I tried everything that applied, but no luck yet.

Here are the symptoms:

  • With Odyssey off, the engine runs flawlessly.
  • With Odyssey on, the loco crawls for about 1-2 seconds as it should, then it takes off like a scared rabbit for 4-5 seconds, then stops dead.
  • After it stops, the motors will no longer run, but all other functions are there as normal.
  • Turning the power off, then on again allows another short crazy run, then motors are dead again.
  • It doesn't seem to matter if the engine is run conventionally or in TMCC.
  • It doesn't seem to matter if the Odyssey is turned from the switch under the cab or via TMCC.

Here's what I have checked:

  • Checked all over the engine inside for any loose wires
  • Checked antenna for shorts - none.  There doesn't seem to be a loss of signal, since everything else still works in TMCC.
  • Checked out the rear motor with the flywheel.  The flywheel is firmly attached to the armature.
  • The magnet is not cracked, nor does it spin on the flywheel.  Just to be sure, I re-glued it securely to the flywheel with CA.
  • The magnet doesn't seem to be very strong.  How much pull should it have?

Any suggestions?  I have an extra ERR CC-M on hand.  Should I give up on Odyssey and install it instead?

Many thanks!


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The magnets in the magnet ring aren't that strong, just make sure that the magnet ring is around 1mm from the sensor on the motor.  If that isn't wrong, then you either have a sensor issue or the DCDS motor drive has croaked.  Obviously, make sure the three wires from the sensor board to the DCDS are solid, the runaway symptoms are that the DCDS isn't seeing the tach pulses.

Note that if the 10-pin connector is used for powering lights, you may have to make adjustments there if you convert to the CC-M.


Thanks for your response.  I got sidetracked rebuilding a ZW, but now I'm back to working on the Lionmaster Challenger.  I plan to install the extra #rd Rail/ERR CC-M that I have on hand.  I have been looking over the boards and the wiring to figure what will just plug in and what will have to be changed.   I'm confused about the wires on the existing J-4 10-pin connector on the driver board.  It currently has:

#1. - blue - serial input,  #4. black - to a small PCB with a tall capacitor in shrink wrap,  #5-6 - red and black - to headlight,  #8 - grey - to a 2-pin connector on the mother board (purpose?).

The new CC-M 10 pin connector has only 2 wires attached:  1 - blue - serial input,  2 - green - serial output. 

Question:  I assume that the red and black plugs on 5-6 above can be transferred to the new connector?  Is the #2 - green wire on the new connecter for serial output?  There is already a wire coming from the motherboard that runs back to the wireless tether.  Is this the serial output to the tender?  What do I do with the grey wire on #8?  Is it just low voltage negative?

My other question is about the J-1 4-pin connector.  The original is connected as follows:

#1 - yellow - to same PCB in shrinkwrap mentioned above,  #2- green - to #2 position on J-4 on mother board,  #3 (blank),  #4 - black - to #4 position on mother board.  On the J-4 connector on the motherboard, the #1 position is blank, the #2 is the green wire, the #3 is black with red marker and it runs down to the wireless tether.   How do I reconcile the differences in the new connectors in the new CC-M kit -  #1 - red goes to #1 red,  #2 - blue goes to #2 blue,  #3 is blank,  #4 - green goes to #4 - green?  Will this just plug in or does it need modification?  Do I still need the PCB with the large capacitor?  It has three wires - black - leading to #4 position on 10-pin connector,  red - connected to AC hot,  yellow connected to J-1 #1 on Driver board.

Thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction!

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