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I'm not sure how Jon's tool works, But the factory used a special tool to secure the horn tight. I would use JW Weld instead of superglue. Less chance of of running out on the outside of the body, marring it.

It's used in a press, but not necessary.  The aluminum horn fits through the hole and the top of the tool presses against the black horn bracket (assuming you are trying to secure the GG1 style horn used on the 2333, 34, 2343 & 2344 diesels). The tapered tool is inserted into the body to spread the tabs on the bracket.  You can use a broad flat punch to flatten the tabs.  Done many with this tool.

Another method which I just used last evening when replacing two horns on a PW repaint with brand new horns purchased during LIONEL's recent sale was this:

Insert the horn and press down firmly while using pliers to twist the protruding end/tabs on the inside of the cab roof.  The twist will tighten the horn to the shell.

Twisting the horn tabs is similar to how sheet metal parts (e.g. the postwar milk stand for the operating milk cars (3472, etc.) were attached to the base.

Not as elegant a solution as the mandrel, but the horns fit tightly which was all I needed.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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