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The newest version of these has an added circuit to ensure that power does not flow until it's properly connected to an appropriate three-pin connector.

There is a mechanical work around, i.e a 'cheat', but it involves using the connectors that you've now cut off.

See this post:

          180 Brick (2/9/2022) | gunrunnerjohn

Good luck.  This may not be easy to undo.

Mike

Last edited by Mellow Hudson Mike

Yes, you can use ring terminals.  Connected, as in continuity between two of the wires!  The push-in pin in the 3rd connector hole is a switch that had to be pressed to enable the power output.  You're just enabling it all the time by connecting two of the wires to the one ring terminal and the hot wire to the other.  You just need to look at the connector you cut off to determine which wire was the switch wire, it will connect to the middle wire in the flat cable.

I find the easiest (but admittedly more expensive) way to transition from the PowerHouse to ring/spade terminals or a coaxial power connector is to use a Molex connector that is compatible with the existing PowerHouse one. There are many different types of Molex connectors. The PowerHouse uses 0.093" pins. These will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-C...anging/dp/B0753WNRDB

The mating Molex connector will look like this when wired:

IMG_3809

The top pin is not connected to a wire but needs to be in place to activate the PH power-on switch.

The middle pin is "hot" and goes to the center rail.

The bottom pin is common.

The advantage of using this connector is that it allows me to quickly detach the PowerHouse from my layout for reuse on a test jig.

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Last edited by Bruce Brown

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