I have noticed that many of Lionel's Pre War Electric Locomotives like the No 38 and No 50 have sort of a "Sad Sack" look to them, bowed in the middle and sagging on the ends. Since both the body and chassis are stampings and not subject to warpage like the die cast locos, I'm wondering what causes this distortion to occur. I don't own one but have considered buying one. Can it be "straightened out" without doing a complete restoration and re-paint ?
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A lot of play in a toy that's pushing 80, 90+ years old. A little tin-knocking would probably bring 'em square again.
I've unsoldered a few of them and straithened them out. Kind of a pain but they look nice when done.
@Pete in Kansas posted:I've unsoldered a few of them and straithened them out. Kind of a pain but they look nice when done.
Thanks Pete you answered my next question. I was wondering if they were soldered together or used folded tab locks.
Is it possible to un-solder and then solder them back together without damaging the original paint ?
The 2 pictured are 38's but I prefer 33's as they are more common and run better having 2 geared wheels rather than just one on the 38. Without looking closely most people think the 38 & 33 are just different chassis but the 38 is actually an inch longer than a 33. I didn't realize this until i had one of each sitting on my workbench one day. As you can see in the attached pictures I like 33's but I do have one 38 also that has a 33 chassis installed in it. Also if you are looking for a 33 shell I have an original one that has just had the red touched up that I would sell for $30.00. The shell for sale is the first picture below.
@Pete in Kansas posted:Also if you are looking for a 33 shell I have an original one that has just had the red touched up that I would sell for $30.00. The shell for sale is the first picture below.
You do nice work Pete. I'm kinda partial to the 33s myself. The shell looks good and the price is fair. I'll send you an email right after dinner.
Thanks
These locos were pretty flimsy compared to the 'classic era' locos that followed that had very stout underframes, these guys were soldered tin, just held to a simple metal frame underneath, but a screw on each end of the cab. Running this into a wall too many times would distort the bodies. Sometimes you can get them a little straighter without repainting, just have to remove the shell, and go slow with the metal bending or you'll have a pile of old paint on your workbench.
When I was a kid, my dad & I used to race the 33's & 38's on a 50 ft. dual standard gauge track. The track ended on top of our coal heater ash pile in the back yard. We would see who could launch their loco the fastest & fartherest after leaving the elevated track sections. As a result the bodies got pulled out or pushed in at the top from blunt crashing force, just as you have pictured. Remove the motor unit and 'hammer' out to straight. I cheated a little, as I would remove about 4 turns of wire from each of the commutator lobes. Suckers would really fly at 25 volts. These were great times.
"BE SAFE EVERYBODY" Harry 
@Harry Henning posted:When I was a kid, my dad & I used to race the 33's & 38's on a 50 ft. dual standard gauge track. The track ended on top of our coal heater ash pile in the back yard. We would see who could launch their loco the fastest & fartherest after leaving the elevated track sections. As a result the bodies got pulled out or pushed in at the top from blunt crashing force, just as you have pictured. Remove the motor unit and 'hammer' out to straight. I cheated a little, as I would remove about 4 turns of wire from each of the commutator lobes. Suckers would really fly at 25 volts. These were great times.
"BE SAFE EVERYBODY" Harry
Loved the Standard Gauge drag racing story Harry. At least they weren't Blue Comets. Good stuff.
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