CRC 2-26 is list don the TrueValue website, but I tend to get mine from the local Home Depot.
Glad you are finding joy and payoff in this little maintenance work.
Definitely go for the 736 - they are great locomotives! I have a few and enjoy them all!
SSSSSSSSMO-kin! 
So I have a 2055 and 2065, both with original (I think) smoke units. I have a partial bottle of SP's and I dropped one in each to see how they smoked with genuine SP tablets. So-so. Neither are really big smokers (for PW engines).
This brings up a couple questions about smoke and these engines:
* Can I use smoke fluid "as is" and not harm the smoke units?
* If okay to do so, then what is your favorite smoke fluid for using in PW steam engines with OEM, or like original, smoke units therein?
EDIT: Forgot to ask... can smoke fluid be had that smells like SP smoke?
Thanks for any input!
Andre
@laming posted:* Can I use smoke fluid "as is" and not harm the smoke units?
Yes.
@laming posted:* If okay to do so, then what is your favorite smoke fluid for using in PW steam engines with OEM, or like original, smoke units therein?
I think MTH fluid, and Crest fluid, smoke best. Any will work, and it depends on the loco smoke unit performance as well.
@laming posted:EDIT: Forgot to ask... can smoke fluid be had that smells like SP smoke?
You're in luck... JT Megasteam makes that fluid... "Smoke Pellet- (magic smell of model trains of the past with the scent of "the good 'ole days)".
@ADCX Rob answered your direct questions, but I would also suggest you look at servicing your smoke units.
Service documents are kindly hosted by Olsen's here: http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=629
Of special interest is adding the 2026-44 spring to all piston based smoke units. The service documents notes that it decreases noise, but I also find that it helps prevent the piston return so that it is able to travel the entire cylinder boosting smoke disbursement. Additionally, these smoke unit shave been around for a while and may be gummed up with gook. A good cleaning couldn't hurt as well as replacing the batting (referred to as smoke unit lining).
Also, some of the initial smoke unit heating elements had 9 turns of nichrome wire. Lionel revised this to 8 turns. You can either adapt or replace yours.
Some parts suppliers offer "liquid conversion kits" but I avoid those as unlike the original style, they can burn out easily if not constantly soaked with smoke fluid. The original units can run pellets or liquid as is just fine, or be run empty with no similar concern.
Thanks Rob!
Found a bottle of JT108... bought it.. it should be on its way tomorrow!
bmoran:
Thanks for your helpful info, too. I've downloaded all the pdf's from that page you linked and will file them in my PW "Tech" folder and read them prior to attacking my smoke units tomorrow.
Working on smoke units...
I recall working on PW smoke units way back during my "Hey-Day Years" of 3-railing, but that was some 25 years ago. I will have to re-learn all over again. I do remember unwinding 1 turn of the heater coil, but before I gleefully unwind a turn on these smoke units, I'll double check to make sure there are NINE rounds before unwinding down to EIGHT. I think I recall the top part of the unit is press fit into the bowl, no? (Can't remember how I separated the bowl parts.) What can I use for the little fibrous gasket that fits between the smoke unit and the body? (Clean the existing gasket as best I can and reuse?)
Batting...
I think I recall using some fiberglass insulation for batting. However, I don't have ready access to a small amount of that. What I can access is the "blown in" type batting that's up in our attic. Will that work? Or, do you recommend a supplier that offers superior stuff to either of my materials?
Questions seem to be multiplistic: 2 questions answered results in 4 more questions asked, etc. 
All fer now!
Andre
You can reuse the existing smoke stack gasket (part 671-181 or 726-57).
The batting is also available (part 671-121)
The cover is a press fit, sometimes with a little bit of adhesive. Usually you can gently pull he cover off.
Forum sponsor @Harry Henning of Henning's trains supplies complete kits:
Thanks again, bmoran!
I've already read the tech docs you linked. Some of it jogged some memories, but I still will need some type of batting, for I'm thinking about using part of tomorrow disassembling, cleaning, and checking the windings on the existing smoke units.
However, even if I do the above, I may go ahead and order a couple/three of those rebuild sets from Hennings or, I might even decide to simply hold off working on these engines until the rebuild kits arrive. (No need in going in twice.)
Andre
My Postwar has always been able to have nice smooth starts, both with ZW, RW and LW transformers. I have thru the years had a few different engines, but mostly 2343 Santa Fe F3's and 2035 PRR K4 style steamers. Both need power to run their E unit and in the case of the Santa Fe, its dual motors. A smooth starting 2343 requires a complete and total tear down, clean and relubrication. This lowers the motors starting Amps and allows them to start more smoothly and in unison. You have to remember that most of the better PW Lionel is pushing 70 to nearly 80 years old, and many have not been properly serviced in many years. Same for the transformers. I love my PW stuff and buy nothing but PW or very late Prewar. The ozone, hot oil and smoke pellet smells are priceless and the reason I run them. They are also simple, easy to service and repair at home, and parts are available from many sources. I use The Train Tender or Olsens for the most part. AD
I don't know if this is ok or not but instead of batting I used shredded up smoke wick in the bottom of the smoke unit. My feeling is if it is ok as smoke wick for liquid smoke why not in the postwar smoke unit. I have heard that some people leave out the batting altogether.
The most important part when fixing a burned out smoke element is the new element. I actually prefer the original Lionel elements as to me they look more robust than most current replacement elements. Finding originals is not always easy and I have purchased used ones in the past.
This is just my 2 cents worth.
@N5CJonny, the 2026-44 has been discussed above already:
@bmoran4 posted:Service documents are kindly hosted by Olsen's here: http://www.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=629
Of special interest is adding the 2026-44 spring to all piston based smoke units. The service documents notes that it decreases noise, but I also find that it helps prevent the piston return so that it is able to travel the entire cylinder boosting smoke disbursement.
As for batting, it comes in the kit, why look for a substitute? Yes, there are those who reinvent the wheel, or scrounge like MacGyver with some success - YMMV.
I wouldn't recommend running with out batting at all. It serves a purpose to wick up the liquid (the smoke pellets melt to a liquid first) and prevent it from leaking out the hole into the piston chamber and making a mess. Be sure when installing the batting that you don't block the pinhole, otherwise, you will experience diminished smoke distribution.
AD:
I too, feel the early 50s products were definitely the cream of the Postwar offerings. I love the look and quality feel of the early 50s Berkshires, for example.
However, having said that, and recognizing that the stamped frame FA's were cheapened, as well as recognizing that the Baldwin Boiler Hudson's don't come up to the standards of say, the early Berkshire's... I also have some appreciation for later models, too. I already have the 2055 and 2065 engines, and intend to "someday" have the 665 and 685 versions, too. Same with the 646, 2046, 2056, Berk-boiler Hudson's. PLUS, I wouldn't mind having select examples of the stamped-frame FA's.
"The ozone, hot oil and smoke pellet smells are priceless and the reason I run them."
Boy, I hear 'ya, AD! Though I will have to be satisfied with JT Megasteam's 108 "Smoke Pellet" fluid as an ersatz smoke pellet. I have about a 1/3 bottle of orange label SP's... but I'm not in a hurry to stuff 'em down the stack. I kind of like having them around. After I service and clean the smoke units in my two PW steam engines, I will likely only use the smoke fluid therein.
N5CJonny:
I can see value in the spring as an aid to reduce "lag" in the piston falling back down by gravity when at moderate speeds. Sort of like "valve float" in a high-revving push-rod engine. I will probably use the springs when I get the kits.
Don't know about foregoing the batting though. Seems like that helps suspend the fluid closer to the heat source? (Who knows?)
I also think one of the important things is keeping that vent hole cleared so there's no obstruction for the incoming puff of air, as well as helping the piston fall back down by reducing back-pressure suction. (That's probably another area that spring comes in handy, I suppose.)
I think the residue and chalking is a downside to using SP's. Seems they produce a LOT of residue and chalking. My insides of the stacks on the 2055 and 2065 are noticeably whiter after only one pill in each.
BTW: Haven't worked on the smoke units yet today. I've had a couple errands to run and had some work to be done out in the garage on a motorcycle. May just go ahead and order a couple smoker kits from Hennings and wait for them to arrive.
All fer now.
Andre
Just ordered some kits from Hennings.
Along with kind of feeling good to be supporting an OGR sponsor, you end up paying far less than the typical shipping shenanigans that goes on over at The Bay.
As for my pair of engines: I think I'll just wait until the Hennings kits arrive before I tackle the smoke units on 'em.
(OH... and watching a couple more steam engines on The Bay as I type, though I've probably spent enough for a while, for I need to start saving up for a train meet coming up in early Sept!)
EDIT:
bmoran:
Yes, gotta' keep that vent hole at the bottom open. AND, I will be using the batting that will come with the Hennings kits. I like the "one stop shopping" for the kit. Haven't a clue where I would find 1' square piece of fiberglass insulation to use over the coming years!
Andre
Andre, should you ever decide you miss the real deal on smoke pellets or at least something that smells and looks like the originals, you can get them at Trainz.
Trainz product and pellet on the left. Original Lionel on the right. Wooden pamper on the right used to clean smoke stack of residue.
N5CJonny:
Repro smoke pellets?
LOL! I should'a known!
That's great. I hesitate to use up my little bottle of originals. (It's a "warm fuzzy" thing to see them. Non-PW Lionel types will not understand.)
I would assume, what with the repro-pills being much fresher, they're more apt to perform well. The catalog listing I found for them at the Trainz site didn't indicate a count on how many pills... but still... it's cool to know repro-pills are available.
Not so sure I want the bother of needing to periodically clean chalk residue from inside the smoke unit, though.
Andre
Andre, the Originals do not seem to change much with age, although it is common for many to turn to powder (still usable as powder). The Trainz product like the originals come 50 pills to the bottle. The product looks, acts and smells like original. Price when I bought them a few years back was around $15.00 a bottle of 50 pills. Because I like the original bottle look, I also have six original Lionel full bottles with different label styles that were available in the 40’s and 50’s. I guess we (most of us) have our spending vices.
Laming: Olsens will let you download the OEM Manual on each piece by number ie: 2023, for free just will not be able to print it. I purchased the entire Lionel Library on CD.
Quick question:
How involved is to replace a coil coupler assembly on the power truck of Lionel's cast-frame FA? (The truck and draw bar w/coupler appear to be staked into a single assembly.)
Would parts be available online to accomplish the above?
Thanks for any input.
Andre
Which FA and front or rear? I've done them all with specialist press tools, but much can be done by the hobbiest too.
Front. Power truck.
I'm about to chicken out. More issues than just the coupler being broke.
Andre
I just did this repair (and other work) for @windhund42 on their 2023. If it is just the front coil coupler, you can get a whole coil coupler replacement for $8-10 and use a punch to set it (the specialist dies make it easier and safer, but are quite an investment). @laming, Forum sponsor @Harry Henning of Henning's Trains has what you need: https://hennings-trains.shopli...il-coupler-head.html
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