JimmyT posted:

Lionel 2-6-6-4 class A  w/rail sounds has whistle, & bell   no chuff in RS mode.  Is sensor on motor part of control of chuff ?    jimmyt

There is a chuff switch that on the frame. Usually near the rear of the engine and could have either gone bad or needs realignment. Also which class a is this?

The scale Class A was produced once, but I believe the LionMaster version was manufactured at least twice. The TMCC versions used a cherry switch, whereas the Legacy version gets the chuff info from the motor driver board. 

This is one of those times where one really needs to provide the 6- Lionel number to receive the best advice.

TRW

PaperTRW posted:

The scale Class A was produced once, but I believe the LionMaster version was manufactured at least twice. The TMCC versions used a cherry switch, whereas the Legacy version gets the chuff info from the motor driver board. 

This is one of those times where one really needs to provide the 6- Lionel number to receive the best advice.

TRW

Interesting - I once asked Mike Regan about a chuff issue on a legacy Atlantic. He stated the first chuff was produced by the micro switch. Then the motor driver board thereafter. 

 

I'm pretty sure Mike was mistaken on this point, or perhaps you didn't understand exactly what he was saying.  If the RCMC is generating the chuff, there is no microswitch in the locomotive.

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question. The # is 6-38049  cab #1234 N&W class A        I found one on e-bay sold section. same #  Seller description Lion Master TMCC I checked Lionel support no listing for that #  I'm looking for the cherry switch

You just have to enter the product ID, in this case 38049, into the replacement parts search and your locomotive will come up.

Yes, but with it in place, does the axle cam activate it?  That's usually the problem, not the actual switch operation.  Nine times out of ten, you can just bend the arm slightly to get it working again.

Check the both the lead into the switch and the lead out of the switch.  On my Supper Chiffer II install project I found that my issue was not with the mechanical parts (switch and cam) but with the wiring.  I did continuity testing and visual inspection of the connections at all joins; the tether and solder joints.

 

bent the c/s lever and checked continuity of wires  in & out  All good.   I did find something that doesn't look right  in the tender. The switch has 1 wire going to a male plug on the mother board but the other wire is going underneath the mother board and soldered to 1 of the pins  Is this normal. or should I unsolder wire.  solder wire to a female pin and insert into plug next to the other wire from the switch ?  One other question, since I don't have any steam sound no exhaust or chuff. just bell & whistle would you think its in conventional mode If it is in conv. mode. places to look would be the switch or one of the boards ( I was told the following boards were replaced, radio , ir receiver, power supply. I did go in to lio. parts & checked the #s   What boards pertain to sound he didn't mention the RS board with chips .

It would help a BUNCH to know exactly where the wire is soldered.  What switch in the tender are you talking about, the chuff switch is in the locomotive.

The new information helps.  If you only have whistle and bell, it sounds like the board is in Signal-Sounds mode, did you check that switch?

Here's the layout of the tender MB.  Note the RS-SS switch has a notation that it's returned under the MB.

691-PCB1-038

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Photos (2)
gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'm pretty sure Mike was mistaken on this point, or perhaps you didn't understand exactly what he was saying.  If the RCMC is generating the chuff, there is no microswitch in the locomotive.

John, I was talking non rcmc. It is modular legacy.

Didn't mean to hijack this thread but I am having a similar problem with my Sunset AC-4 cab forward (tmcc, railsounds and smoke).

Put it on the track for the first time in years and there is NO sound,  Runs and smokes perfectly.  I even reprogramed to engine 1 and still no luck.  The is true in both conventional and using my Legacy system.  I tried to reset but couldn't accomplish that on my legacy controller.???

 

Also this engine has no more than 10 to 15 minutes run tine on it ( I am the original owner)

Any comments would be appreciated

With no sound, I'd be looking at the RS boards in the tender first.  Many times reseating the boards and/or the chips on the audio board solves these problems.  However do NOT try to remove and reseat the audio chips without the PLCC extraction tool, you'll end up with a broken socket and then you will need a new board.

I did pull the RS board & both chips (I do have a chip puller) & than reseated them  The return wire from the switch is soldered to the bottom of mother board. 4th pin bottom row  AD20  Looking down power supply board is to the right. I only see 1 switch & volume control in tender. The pictures are a big help. thanks again

The one switch in the tender is the RS/SS switch, is it in the RS position?  Have you tried it in the other position and then cycled power?  Occasionally, the switches get mounted backwards.

checked switch no change.   Two questions, can you tell me if the return wire is soldered to the correct pin under the mother board?  Don't laugh at this second question. I know I can take can take a good chip from a MTH  PS1 board and swap it with a bad chip in another PS 1 to see if I have a bad chip, The question is I do not have a test unit to check the RS board. Can I take another RS board diesel or steam and swap it out just to see if the original board is bad ?     Not concerned about the type of sound, but weather the board or chip are bad. I hate to spend  $ 50.00 on a guess

No problem at all swapping the RS4 boards, you just get odd sounds.  I do that all the time.

As for the wire soldered under the PCB, check and see if it goes to the ground connection, that's where it should go.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

With no sound, I'd be looking at the RS boards in the tender first.  Many times reseating the boards and/or the chips on the audio board solves these problems.  However do NOT try to remove and reseat the audio chips without the PLCC extraction tool, you'll end up with a broken socket and then you will need a new board.

Thank you for your response.  Before I had a chance to check I passed it off to our local repair man (he is an expert and doesn't charge enough for the repairs).

he originally commented that it could be a bad sound board.  If can be fixed he can fix it.

This is a good thread, I have two older  Lionel TMCC locos that chuff has stopped working although the other sounds work and the start up single chuff also sounds off.  That leads me to suspect the switch as you all suggest for this thread.  I'll check my locos out and see if that will solve my chuff problem.  My locos are a Warhorse Hudson  with wireless tether and a 6-18052 Torpedo with plug in tether.  Both have the same symptoms as described though.

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

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