Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Dave_C posted:

 I still have a few to do. From what I remember. I used one of the holes that was used for piping on the inside tanks. Was perfect to line up and center the Kadee.  You just needed to drill one more hole to secure it. Not sure. I believe you had to notch the body a bit to get the proper height.

This USB exactly the way I designed them, to use the screw hole in the floor for the rear centerline hole in the Kadee box!

I also have a second set of holes to allow the user to place them at more scale distance apart, as well, with the buffers barely touching, but before coupler tension. 

I measured the end sill at exactly the height needed per the height gauge, but we'll see how they come from Shapeways. But, that's also for the 3-rail trucks, so I bet you're right about the height.

IMG_7883

Thanks,

Mario

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_7883
Last edited by CentralFan1976

Here ya go!

IMG_0716IMG_0717IMG_0718IMG_0719IMG_0720

There are two sets of holes in the shim, if you want the buffers to touch, then you use the set of holes farther back.

Still insert the existing factory milk tank screw back into the screw hole that lines up (notice its countersunk), and then just drill the holes for the Kadees using the center and rear holes.

Good luck!

Thanks,

Mario

 

Attachments

Images (5)
  • IMG_0716
  • IMG_0717
  • IMG_0718
  • IMG_0719
  • IMG_0720

 If you that want close coupling action, you can use the original tank screw and put it in the countersunk hole, then drill the frame for the set of holes farther back, and you get this:

IMG_7934IMG_7935

THE BUFFERS ARE SPRUNG!

I didn't know that until I installed it this way, but oh can forget about O40!

if you want to use the original configuration on O40, you have to trim the ears off the Kadee box, and it'll work no problem! 

Thanks!

Attachments

Images (2)
  • IMG_7934
  • IMG_7935
Last edited by CentralFan1976
rrgeorge posted:

Like what you have done here.  One question, could you post a video or direct me to one, on how you remove the claw coupler from the Lionel truck?  Can't find it using the search function.  Thanks in Advance. 

Sure can!

on these cars, you can actually just remove the coupler swing arm by pulling the e-clip on the top of the fulcrum pin, then just lift and pull the uncoupling tab with a pair of pliers. Watch this video I just made for you:

 

And, as for some other cars, you'll need to remove the whole coupler carrier frame, which is easily done with a Dremel rotary tool, as in the video below.

Thanks!

Mario

Last edited by CentralFan1976

Add Reply

Post
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×