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I agree with what Thomas above re: the pricing.

 

Have to be mindful when working with T-Rail if you haven't worked with it before.  It's not anywhere near as flexible as regular tubular track (or any other kind of track I'm aware of).  Actually, I think the best way to approach it is there's no flexibility in the track at all, so you need to have your layout space conform to the track and not the other way around.  If you attempt to tweak track sections you can potentially break the tie plates that are molded into the ties as well as damage the rails themselves. 

 

If you plan to buy any switches you need to be mindful of those as well; the earlier 731 switches had guide rails that were too short and didn't handle wheelsets with scale sized flanges very well, causing derailments, so a redesign was made on later switches that included longer guide rails to address this problem.  Check for frayed wiring and also be aware that these switches were vulnerable to warpage to the base & the frogs, so you want to make sure to look out for that as well.

Originally Posted by tinguy:

All I need are the brackets and screws to put the track together, but wait I read a

old post that said you can use Atlas O ones and slip them on. I knew the prices were

high for these $18.00 to $20.00 dollars per track but when I say them for the price

they were going I could not resist.

 

Tin  

I would definitely recommend that you use the T-rail fishplates & nuts/bolts.  Much more solid connection that way.

The T-rail is an interesting nostalgia item, but it seems cumbersome to try to put it to practical use. Tiny screws for the fishplates, and you'll end up adapting it to different track to get any variety in a track plan.

 

I almost bought some straight pieces at a train show, might have used it on display shelves, but it's too easy to get too much of this miscellaneous stuff ...

I received my Lionel T rail track today, wow what great track all metal, heavy great 

stuff. I have to clean it a little some of them have rust on them, any ideas on cleaning 

them. I use a Dremel tool and one of the round brush to clean metal which work 

great on the Super O track I found in the garbage, 16 tracks for $39.00 smackers 

not bad at all.

 

Tin 

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I have a t rail layout and have enjoyed it for years.I have double main line tracks,a passenger yard and some inner loops .IThe track is easy to work with and I have been able to make any configuration I wanted.It does some times take a bit of engineering but that is the fun of model trains. I have about 800 sections.Once you get it together a very small time is needed to make sure the bolts do not back out.I cleaned mine with light sandpaper and brushed REstorzit(I think) on the back and ties and then let it sun and wiped off the excess-Do this outside with lots of ventilation).Any questions? Regards, Bob

Originally Posted by John Korling:
Originally Posted by Tiffany:

hello guys and gals..........

 

Are the lionel "T" rail tracks have solid rail or hallow ?

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678

Tiffany

 

Solid.

Thank you, I guess the Atlas "O" 3 rail track is solid. What is special about the "T" rail track as the Atlas track is nickel silver "T" rail too.  I am just learning to understand the prewar guys ?

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678

Tiffany

Originally Posted by tinguy:

What's great about them is that it works with magnetraction engines, when I put my 

EP-5 on the tracks it really sticks, with the atlas it's a no go no stick. I just wanted 

to get some track that would work great with my Hudson and my other engines and 

I got it at a great price.

 

Tin  

 

The Atlas O 21st Century nickel-silver track won't work with Magnetraction for sure, although their steel track will.

 

Nickel-silver is a non-ferrous material, which means it has very low to virtually non-existant traces of iron in it, and that's what makes it non-magnetic.  The upside to nickel-silver is that it's much more corrosion-resistant than regular steel.  Instead of rusting like steel, the surface actually oxidizes, and that oxidization remains electrically conductive.

Originally Posted by 1938Robert:

I have a t rail layout and have enjoyed it for years.I have double main line tracks,a passenger yard and some inner loops .IThe track is easy to work with and I have been able to make any configuration I wanted.It does some times take a bit of engineering but that is the fun of model trains. I have about 800 sections.Once you get it together a very small time is needed to make sure the bolts do not back out.I cleaned mine with light sandpaper and brushed REstorzit(I think) on the back and ties and then let it sun and wiped off the excess-Do this outside with lots of ventilation).Any questions? Regards, Bob

Yes, just one question. Can we get some photos?

ConductorEarl.Let me know what you will sell your T rail for-Shipping would be to Z 37027-Brentwood,Tennessee. I think the T rail Track was manufactured from 1937 to 1941 when war started for the United States.The first T rail by Lionel used three joiners and later Lionel added the holes for side plates on the outside rails and produced nuts and bolts as well as the joiners.They also made switches,90 degree crossovers and an insulated section.Some say they made operating sections and I have three of them that the person I purchased them from said two came from Lionels layout in New York.

The Mailman brought a package today all the way from Shanghai, I got 100 screws and 

last week 75 nuts and as you can see it work out great with the fishplates. The price

about $3.00 for the screws and $8.00 and change for the nuts all I need now is the 

Fishplate's and center rail connectors.

 

Tin 

 

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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