Lionel Uncoupler

@Jack B  The Uncoupler will work on 14VAC from the Z-1000 accessory output, but there is an increased risk of the electromagnetic coil in the uncoupler melting the track housing.  The higher voltage will decrease the time the uncoupler can be activated without overheating.  Also the control buttons that come with the uncouplers are notorious for sticking in the on position.

Here's a pic from another thread:

Many people opt to replace the stock control with an aftermarket momentary push button rated for 5 Amps.  Another small variable output AC transformer set to 10-12 volts would also be a good idea .

If you want to take the protection another step further, you could install a PTC resettable fuse in line with the uncoupling coil.  This one is what's recommended:  Bourns MF-R050  if interested, I can post a picture showing the installation.

@SteveH posted:

@Jack B  The Uncoupler will work on 14VAC from the Z-1000 accessory output, but there is an increased risk of the electromagnetic coil in the uncoupler melting the track housing.  The higher voltage will decrease the time the uncoupler can be activated without overheating.  Also the control buttons that come with the uncouplers are notorious for sticking in the on position.

Here's a pic from another thread:

Many people opt to replace the stock control with an aftermarket momentary push button rated for 5 Amps.  Another small variable output AC transformer set to 10-12 volts would also be a good idea .

If you want to take the protection another step further, you could install a PTC resettable fuse in line with the uncoupling coil.  This one is what's recommended:  Bourns MF-R050  if interested, I can post a picture showing the installation.

Yes, I am very much interested.  I'm going to have two uncoupling sections, one on each siding.  For the price of these and the age of the future engineers I like the all three of your suggestions.  Looks like they definitely could be the cheapest route.  Would a voltage drop resistor wired in the switch circuit be an option or no?

@Jack B posted:

Reading the directions from the Lionel Uncoupler there is a warning NOT to connect it to the CW-80 accessory terminals and also a warning about setting your throttle to 10-12V.    I'm using a Z1000 and was planing on connecting to the accessory terminal which is 14V.  My engines are both Lionchief.  Am I missing something here and going to end up with a burned up device?

I know it's a fault but I usually read the directions.

If you are afraid of melting down the track, you can use the postwar version with adapter tracks fast track to tubular. Works great and rock solid.

Here are a few options, all of which will insert the PTC in-line (series) with the Hot power connection feeding into the coil:

1) In this example, the enamel coil wire would be de-soldered from the switch return wire terminal and one of the PTC leads wired in its place.  The other leg of the PTC would be soldered to the freed coil wire and shrink wrapped.

2) alternatively, the PTC could be wired as below into the switch send OR return wire

A 3rd option, not shown, would be if using a terminal strip to distribute power to the Uncoupler, the PTC could be wired from there in series with the Hot wire going to the Uncoupler.

Also note that the above pictures show the locations for the Activation button connections when using Track power.  If providing Aux power and Aux ground to the Uncoupler, the connections would be as follows (PTC not shown).

@ThatGuy posted:

If you are afraid of melting down the track, you can use the postwar version with adapter tracks fast track to tubular. Works great and rock solid.

Yes that's true about the older UCS, they were made to last.  It would be great if Lionel would make the Fastrack versions as reliable as the UCS.

For those who prefer Fastrack, at least there are some work-arounds.

@SteveH posted:

Yes that's true about the older UCS, they were made to last.  It would be great if Lionel would make the Fastrack versions as reliable as the UCS.

For those who prefer Fastrack, at least there are some work-arounds.

I use fastrack myself and tubular for sidings. Makes them look aged and not main line

Bringing this back up.  When I attach the Uncoupler track it trips my whole layout as soon as I press the button.  Anyone have a clue why?  Assuming too much voltage?  I am using a Powerhouse 180 to a TMCC Direct Lock On.  Also I have 3 Operating track, and they work.  I have tried 2  separate same action.  Any advice / suggestion?

The uncoupler is designed to use 12VAC max, not 18VAC.

Ahhh...makes total sense.  Gunrunner john, thank you.  So they will not work with my set up.  Or I have to run aux power...my layout is on the floor under a piano so running Aux wire will be a PITA.  I think I am better with the 18v in general correct?  I am new to trains, so maybe adding the Power House and TMCC Direct Connect was not a wise move?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The uncoupler is designed to use 12VAC max, not 18VAC.

I ordered a CW-80 to modulate the voltage to accessories.  THANK YOU for post, it sent me on a journey.  Now I need to figure how to use the Lionel Fast track accessory track to power up Minard buildings. :-)

@RV Junke posted:

I ordered a CW-80 to modulate the voltage to accessories

Be aware that the uncoupling sections will probably trip the CW-80 into foldback mode with each application, it might not be a problem as the CW will pump 5 amps for a little while. A better choice would be just about any postwar transformer - 1033/1044/4090 would be ideal - even a MPC 4050 would give better uncoupling performance.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Be aware that the uncoupling sections will probably trip the CW-80 into foldback mode with each application, it might not be a problem as the CW will pump 5 amps for a little while. A better choice would be just about any postwar transformer - 1033/1044/4090 would be ideal - even a MPC 4050 would give better uncoupling performance.

Thanks Rob., I assumed I could drop the voltage to 12v opposed to the 18v constant I am pumping now.

All - not that anyone is asking but I wanted to share what I learned.

1) A 180Power House using the TMCC Direct Connect little box - The Un-Coupler TRIPS the TMCC Direct, the Operational track can operate but is flaky and will trip the TMCC Direct, but you can get aa de-couple in...just not consistent

2) The CW-180 the Un-couplers work from 12v-19.8 (full) - I am sending back the CW-180 and ordered the GW-180 as I really like the 180 Powerhouse, so exchanged the CW for the GW

3) The Trucks Lionel 6-1251 works like a charm - Full Scale coupling

4) The Trucks 6-14078 (the ones with the little disc) literally have no room to de-couple withe Un-Coupler track - I added 3 layers of Gaffer tape on the rail and they work like a champ.  These trucks work sort of with the operational track but it almost feels like the magnet is stronger so it pushes it and then there is room.  Holding directly over magnet no room.  Again tape works.

The Trucks

Update on Uncouplers:

1)  Found supplying Aux Voltage to un-couple switch and adding separate track power seems to be the best and most reliable.

2) Added a Evan LED indicator light so I can see where the un-coupler is on track

3) Added 2 JST quick connects, one for the Track Power and One for the Switch and LED