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OK first let me put a disclaimer on this discussion. This is a honest question seeking knowledge from operators with out trying to start a war of old traditional verses new Lionel Flyer.

 

I have been a train / toy collector for 40 plus years I have in my collection Standard Gauge Post war Linoel and a lot of Prewar Marx Litho . I have never been a big operator. just once in awhile a loop of track and that sort of thing

Now being retired with my wife's health failing I have noticed she enjoys watching the trains run a lot on our local modular club layout and with the space I have flyer looks like a good fit here at home

 

 

Now for the question. I have noticed that there is a lot of Lionel Flyer available at fair prices but does it operate as good as the original , and do the accessory's work as well? I know from experience that there is a difference in o gauge

. It would be nice to have something in like new condition but some thing with good operation as well. I am not interested in any of the new technology such as Flyerchef

Legacy or Tmcc. just the good old transformer control is good enough Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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From what I know about G-AF (which ain't much), everything with a 3 digit number has a similar motor to those made by Lionel. The Flyonels use can motors with fancy electronic boards. If you have limited space, however, you might want to give Lionel 027 a chance, as the Flyer curves are something like 54" in diameter. Most Lionel 027 will operate on 027, but has the option of 42" diameter track. If you are serious about flyer, though, I would go with the Postwar Gilbert products.

I would suggest going with some traditional postwar Flyer to start out with if possible.  Like postwar Lionel, it's pretty much bullet-proof.

 

1980's -1990's Flyonel is basically postwar Flyer in new paint, can motors (with the exception of the very early PA's)and electronic reverse units.  Running qualities can be inconsistent.  I have some that run superbly while some others whose performance is less than stellar. 

 

Then there's the newer stuff.  The Pacific's and Mikado's made in this century have TMCC, but will run on conventional AC.  Performance is better with TMCC.  Products made over the past 5 years or so have Legacy command control.

 

The basic curve for Flyer is what's now called R20.  This means you'll need at a space at least 40" wide.  There's old Flyer tubular track, some old K-line tubular, (which had R27 curves,) S Fastrack from Lionel and MTH (former S Helper Service) S-Trax, both with molded ballast. 

 

Both Lionel and MTH offer a variety of curves.  Lionel has switches available, currently MTH does not.  American Models also has track similar to Atlas HO Snap-Track, their minimum curve is R27.

 

Rusty

Rusty has probably covered it very well.  I would agree with using post war original Flyer stuff, as previously stated it is very reliable and rugged.

 

I do have several Legacy locomotives, the technology is impressive, and I have had very good luck with their running capability, but have had my share of issues with the Smoke units.  I know you said that didn't interest you, but wanted to include my experience.

 

If I was starting out fresh, I would probably use the Lionel Fast-track, but my inventory of original flyer track, and roadbed, along with some of the newer 54" curves with reproduction roadbed is working pretty well on my WIP home layout.

 

As for the accessories, both old Flyer and old and newer Lionel can peacefully co-exist and entertain kids of all ages for hours.

 

You can check out our club web-site for photos and videos of our train shows.  You will see a nice mix of everything you are asking about.

 

http://www.trainweb.org/acsg/CD/CD_shows1.html

 

Aflyer

Hi Unclelouiesboy,

 

     I have been collecting American Flyer Trains since 1974. I have found that given any of the steam locomotives produced between 1948-1956 are very reliable to run and if they don't can be operable within a short time and little cost. Prices are differ because of the collectors out there and the harder to find the higher the price. One option I have used was find a complete set an that way you could have Engine, cars, track and box to put it away. Then I have gotten the whole set for a little more then the engine alone. Most of my collection were basket cases and I rebuilt every one to run and appear correct because I am an operator rather then a collector. AF Diesels are a little more trouble or you have to buy a good operating one. Most places Like swap meets or train shows have a test track so you can have it tested to see if it runs before you buy it. I hope I have given you food for thought. Any further questions feel free I am online most days.

 

Don

 

 

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