Re: low ceiling, ceiling layout help requested

Hello All,

I have been into model trains since birth and so far have avoided 3 rail stuff. That all changed when I couldn't pass up on a Lionel big boy. I currently have no space to run it. An around the room ceiling layout is the only option for this beast. This is a basement with 6'8" ceilings. The room dimensions are roughly 9' x 20'.

Most ceiling layouts that I have seen are on higher ceilings. I am looking to build something plain and cheap that will be sturdy enough to hold the train but still give me room to walk under without ducking (I am 6' tall unless its been awhile since a haircut, then I am 6'2"). Most of the layout will hug the wall but obviously the curves will be rather large so I'm assuming that will have to be braced from above. How do I do that with a drop ceiling? How narrow can I safely make the board? This will be single track.

What material should I use? Plywood or 1x? planks? Any other options?

Should I secure to the wall or ceiling? Some will have to be secured to ceiling, what is a good method for that?

How far apart can the supports be without bowing?

How concerned should I be about derailments? (again I have no o gauge experience). Any non obstructive ways of preventing them?

Any and all advice (and pictures) is greatly appreciated because this is totally foreign to me.

thanks,

Matt

5/23/185:50 PM

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Mark BoyceOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Matt, My ceiling is plaster, 7' 4" high. So I took a quick and dirty way out since I am not a carpenter and this is in an old basement family room. I bought the pre-dut, pre-finished MDF, OSB, XYZ, I don't know what they are, but you will see int the photographs. I used shelving brackets on every stud 16" to hold them up except over a long doorway and a plaster bulkhead that is over the I beam and duct. One wall is brick, so I drilled holes in the joists, attached an anchor bolt coupled to all thread right to a hole in the middle of the board. I did that wall last, 2 years after I started, due to health reasons. Personally, If I had it to do over again, I would anchor the whole thing into the joists. Of course that is a bit more tricky for you with the drop ceiling. I have two loops running on 12" shelves. 054 GarGraves track next to the wall, and 042 tubular on the inside. I do not run anything expensive on the track next to the edge, but I have yet to have a train crash into the abyss. There are plenty of folks here who have build more attractive shelves, but mine gets the job done.

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5/23/187:10 PM

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Matt, you're going to get many opinions on building a shelf layout as you described. Your ceiling is 6'-8". I would allow 6" from the ceiling to the top of the shelf. If you use 3/4" thick boards that would make the underside of the shelf 6'-1 1/4" above the floor. Keep your hair short.....LOL MDF is easy to work with but dusty when cutting it. Wear a dust mask. A good grade of cabinet grade plywood is an option but you will have to do something with the edges if you want it to look presentable.

As for distance between supports I would suggest 16".

Those cheap gray metal shelf brackets will do the job nicely. They are stronger than you think as long as you use enough of them, hence the 16" center to center dimension.

The width of the shelf need be only just as wide as the track ties. For instance, "O" gauge tubular track ties are 2 1/4" long, so make the shelf 2 1/4" wide. Keep it away from the wall enough to allow your largest locomotive to negotiate the curves without it hitting the wall.

Now for the curved shelving. No ceiling supports need to be used. Instead bridge the span with a 1" x 3" set vertical under the curved shelf.

Here's a couple quick sketches I made.