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A while ago I was wiring a couple of sets of 3 white leds into observation cars, which seemed to be a cumbersome fiddley procedure. So I decided to whip up this little board just to make it easier. It's 31 x 55 mm overall size, with pads to solder in a rear led, and two alternate locations for side marker leds. Which ones to use will depend on what fits the particular car best. The board would mounted up inside the car roof, near the back end, using double sided foam adhesive tape, CA glue, or something similar.

The idea is to solder flat face white leds in with the leads full length, then use needle nose pliers to bend the leads as needed so that they shine directly on the red marker bezels when the car is assembled. The board includes a spot for a load resistor; I have found something in the range of 330-470 ohms seems to work nicely when connecting the board to an overhead strip of 3528 leds powered by a constant current regulator board such as that sold by grj through Hennings.

There is also a pad for a 1N4148 or similar GP diode, to rectify the track AC if no constant current board is used in the car. If using DC you would simply omit the diode and jumper the pads. You could use a standard 0.1" pitch 2 pin header and connector for wiring, but simply soldering 2 short lengths of #30 or so wiring would be an easy way to connect it to the led strip lighting.

To get a decent price point I went ahead and ordered 100 boards from an Asian board house, of which I only need about 15. So I can sell small lots of these to anyone else who may wish to use them. The price will be about 50 cents a piece, plus a nominal fee for shipping.  This is a small price to pay for the convenience they should provide. (OSHPark's price is about 13 bucks for three!)

Board PIC

Here is the dead simple circuit diagram.

LED Board Circuit jpg

Top Front 3D View

The 3D view above shows 5 leds installed, but normally you would use only one set of the side marker mount pads, whichever fits the car best.

Rod

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Images (3)
  • Board PIC
  • LED Board Circuit jpg
  • Top Front 3D View
Last edited by Rod Stewart
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Getting into this PCB stuff now, right Rod?

I wonder if maybe having a whole set of pads all along the side might make sense for a "universal" board, that way you could plop the LED anywhere it needed to be.  You also forgot the 22uh inductor for DCS...

Another interesting idea would be to have a constant current supply on the PCB with a capacitor so you don't have flickering markers/rear lighting.  That's one of the benefits of doing LED lighting, might as well take advantage of it.

I wonder if maybe having a whole set of pads all along the side might make sense for a "universal" board, that way you could plop the LED anywhere it needed to be.  You also forgot the 22uh inductor for DCS...

Another interesting idea would be to have a constant current supply on the PCB with a capacitor so you don't have flickering markers/rear lighting.  That's one of the benefits of doing LED lighting, might as well take advantage of it.

Good point grj; I might do a Mark 2 version with more location pads along the sides, after I experiment with the first ones a bit. They won't likely be here until about the end of the month, so we shall see.

Regarding the inductor, the idea was to couple these with led strips powered by my "roll-your-own" version of your constant current lighting boards, which already have the inductor built in; so no need I figured. Besides I didn't think there would be anything going on with this simple circuit that might create DCS interference anyway. And you already have the cap on the main board to mitigate flicker, bridge rectifier, adjustable current output, etc.

My thinking was to build up about 6 of these at a time, ready to install and hookup whenever converting a car to led lighting. I also plan to convert a few cabeese to led lighting and these may work for that purpose too. Thanks for the ideas!

Rod

Maybe replace the resistor with a 2K pot, that makes it universal.  With the pot you don't have to select a resistor, you can tune it for the proper light output.

Another good idea John, thanks! I will probably build one of the first boards up with a trim pot just to test things out. Once a value for R1 is settled on that will likely be all that I will use. Right now its looking like 330 ohm with the constant current board set at 30 ma, but that could change.

@bigboy25 posted:

@Rod Stewart This looks promising! I can't wait to see how this works out for you when the boards get here. I have had success using JLC PCB, but I don't know how their prices compare to other services.

JLCPCB is where I ordered the boards from. I have used them and ALLPCB for most board orders. Both are good. When playing with order quantities the base shipping cost was the same up to 100 boards, so that's what I went for. For quantities larger the shipping was going to be more. They said fab time was going to be 5-6 days, and shipping time another 5-6 days. This seems doubtful and I am betting on more like the end of August.

@Rod Stewart posted:

Another good idea John, thanks! I will probably build one of the first boards up with a trim pot just to test things out. Once a value for R1 is settled on that will likely be all that I will use. Right now its looking like 330 ohm with the constant current board set at 30 ma, but that could change.

Actually, you might find that you have cars with only side markers, and other cars with only rear facing lights.  Those require a different resistor value.  Also, sometimes the light fixtures require more or less intensity.  Also, if you use yellow or amber LED's in something like heavyweight coaches, they tend to require a bit more current, that would make the markers brighter, maybe too bright.

@Rod Stewart posted:

JLCPCB is where I ordered the boards from. I have used them and ALLPCB for most board orders. Both are good. When playing with order quantities the base shipping cost was the same up to 100 boards, so that's what I went for. For quantities larger the shipping was going to be more. They said fab time was going to be 5-6 days, and shipping time another 5-6 days. This seems doubtful and I am betting on more like the end of August.

You might be surprised.  I typically get boards in about two weeks including shipping from my China supplier.  Here's a recent order I made, from the time I put the order in with the two sets of Gerber files, until I actually had boards was just about two weeks.  Each of these were for 100 individual boards, and they panel them into larger panels for production.

___PCB

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Images (1)
  • ___PCB

UPDATE: So the board order arrived Aug 13; a couple of days under two weeks. Not bad at all.

Here is the first batch of boards built up and ready to drop in. I used cool white FF 3mm leds and 300 ohm load resistors, which looked right to my eye after some testing.

4 First Boards

The next car set on the led conversion list was MTH 60' N & W streamliners, so that's what is getting the test run. Here is the board glued in, strip leds in place and wired to the marker led board. The side marker leds have been aligned to the bezels (well, close anyway), all tested and ready to slip into the car.

8 Marker leds aligned, ready to close up

Here is the finished car on the layout and looking pretty good to me.

9 Finished

All in all I am quite happy with the way these boards turned out and how much easier they make the whole marker led installation business. As mentioned earlier I ordered a batch of 100 of these guys, so I can sell a few lots to those who might be interested. Price would be 50 cents a piece plus a nominal fee for standard mailing in a bubble envelope.

Alternatively I can post the gerbers for anyone who wants to have their own boards made, but I can tell you they are several times more costly from OSHPark. (Their price is $13 bucks for three boards I recall)

Rod

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Images (3)
  • 4 First Boards
  • 8 Marker leds aligned, ready to close up
  • 9 Finished

In conjunction with the DIY passenger car lighting kits, I have been asked about possible kits for these observation car marker led boards. I have thus far been sending one bare board with every 6 lighting kits. But some folks seem to want the leds and resistors included for convenience. That's easy enough to include with a few lighting kits, but not so easy after the fact.

The assembly of a kit is easy enough, but since the average user would likely only need 2 or maybe 3 kits, how do we make it affordable to ship? There's not much sense in having 5 bucks worth of kits that cost 6 bucks to ship by bubble mailer.

I am experimenting to see if there is a way to get the kits into a format that will go into a standard letter envelope that can go non-machinable. This should keep shipping pretty reasonable.

More to follow on this shortly.

Rod

@Mark Boyce posted:

Rod, I was thinking about the cost of shipping versus the cost of kits earlier.  How do you make the envelopes non machinable?  Can you label them?

As I understand it, it can be thicker than a normal letter, up to about heavy cardboard thickness, but it can’t be lumpy or irregular. Then when you take it to the PO they stamp it non-machinable, and there is a small premium over regular $.60 mail of $.39, a total of $.99. Way less than $5 or $6 for bubble mailer package type mail.
That premium may vary, not sure.

Rod

@texgeekboy posted:

@Rod Stewart,

I sent you a PM earlier.  If you still have the boards, I'd like a set.  PM me if you do this.

Thanks for your interest! Are you wanting bare boards, or kits complete with leds and resistors? If the latter, I am just ironing out a couple of things with regards to shipping. Might take a couple of days yet, I will put the information here whichever way it goes.

Rod

According to the USPS, a non-machinable letter can't be more then .009" thick.  With that said, I've mailed a bunch of stuff with components thicker than that in a letter envelope and they've always gotten there.

Good to know John. I have sent a couple of envelopes non-machinable recently with cardboard about 5/32" thick; (0.156"), and if it fits through the slot in the magic plastic template they have at the PO, it's good to go. So there is that.

Rod

UPDATE: Ready to go with a few kits for these boards, for those who prefer to have a kit with everything needed for assembly. As was said back a few posts:

"In conjunction with the DIY passenger car lighting kits, I have been asked about possible kits for these observation car marker led boards. I have thus far been sending one bare board with every 6 lighting kits. But some folks seem to want the leds and resistors included for convenience."

The assembly of a kit is easy enough, and the average user would likely only need 2 or maybe 3-4 kits. So we'll go with a 2 kit package and a 4 kit package. They will look like this for shipping:

2 Board Kit

The parts will come nestled in a space cut in cardboard, taped in flat so as to be mailable inexpensively. Each 2 board kit will include: boards, 6 x 3mm flat top white leds, 2 x 330 ohm and 2 x 220 ohm resistors, a length of 2 conductor 28 AWG ribbon cable suitable for hookup, and instructions. Once assembled each board should look something like this:

2 - Copy

Installation of the board inside the observation car is covered in the Passenger Car LED Lighting Quick Tips pdf, attached again below for convenience.

Pricing will be $2 per kit, plus $1 for non-machinable mailing (no tracking or insurance). So a whopping 5 bucks will get you two kits mailed! What a deal! Paypal FF preferred, my email is in my profile.

Please note these kits are tailored to the DIY enthusiast. They are intended to fill the niche for the electrically capable hobbyist who enjoys electronics assembly, but does not want the complication and expense of ordering boards and small lots of the various components required to do the job. They are NOT intended to compete with any other commercially available ready-made products. The kits are easy to build but you do need basic tools and soldering skills.

Rod

Attachments

Attached is an updated set of Observation Car Marker LED Board notes, modified with recent user feedback, especially in the area of drumhead lighting. It is specific to board rev R1.2 which now ships with all new kits. The main difference between this board and R1.0b is the new board has provision to mount either a 3362P style trim pot, or only a fixed resistor. The trim pot of course allows adjusting the marker intensity to your liking. The pot pattern also allows the use of side adjust styles 3362S or 3306K. 500 ohm 3362P trim pots are optionally available with the kits.

Rod

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