Metal wheels are also kinda' necessary to provide power! 
Start buying O scale 2 rail and your journey to The Dark Side will be complete.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Metal wheels are also kinda' necessary to provide power!
True enough. 
I guess I should have said that I think the sintered wheels seem to be louder than, say, the "solid" steel types, which is what I use on my 2 rail stuff...plus, the size of the flange and thickness of the wheel itself probably adds to the sound levels.
Mark in Oregon
I’d try to sell what you have and simply start over. That may be the easiest solution and quickest way to convert. Good luck.
gunrunnerjohn posted:I had an MTH Mikado with scale wheels a few years back, it ran great on Atlas track, and derailed on about half of the Atlas switches. It also derailed on almost every Fastrack curve from O72 and down. I sold it and decided I'd stick with the pizza cutter wheels that are so much more forgiving.
Using 3 rail Atlas track and switches and fastrack is a pretty poor test. I can't see either as being really suitable for typical 2 rail operation.
The Atlas rail for 3 rail is huge compared to the rail used in 2 rail. The contours for the 3 rail track do not work out favorably for 2 rail wheels, not to mention the differences in frogs and guardrails.
Fastrack as a test? no comment needed.
All,
I did switch from 3 rail to 2 rail and while I have realized a far greater level of satisfaction in 2 rail, I think construction methods have more to do with the noise.
christopher N&W posted:gunrunnerjohn posted:I had an MTH Mikado with scale wheels a few years back, it ran great on Atlas track, and derailed on about half of the Atlas switches. It also derailed on almost every Fastrack curve from O72 and down. I sold it and decided I'd stick with the pizza cutter wheels that are so much more forgiving.
Using 3 rail Atlas track and switches and fastrack is a pretty poor test. I can't see either as being really suitable for typical 2 rail operation.
Try to remember that this was a 3-rail locomotive with scale wheels. They are sort of a cross between true t-rail wheels and the 3-rail pizza cutter wheels. It was, after all, a 3-rail locomotive, so running it on three rail track isn't really something odd. I wasn't trying for "typical 2-rail operation".
I understand John. Maybe the marketing of this 3 rail model with scale wheels is the more awkward part.
Well, you have agreement there! That was the only time I've made that mistake, it was a good deal, and since it was really a 3-rail locomotive (or so I thought), I bought it. It wasn't until I tried to run it that I realized that it was a 3-rail locomotive in name only. Those locomotives are switchable to 2-rail operation by removing the pickup rollers and switching to 2-rail operation. Why they even made them 3-rail "compatible" is a mystery to me, since they're clearly NOT compatible.
I've tried to run 2-rail stuff on 3-rail Atlas track, works great on straight track, and actually pretty good on curves. I couldn't successfully make it over more than one Atlas switch with 2-rail cars no matter how I tried.
John,
I have 8 of these 2/3 locomotives for 2 rail operation. I'd say for the right person and given the right 3 rail running environment they would work for 3 rail. I was in a 3 rail club for years and we ran 2 rail trains on the layout (Gargraves/Ross). But that would be uncommon in 3 rail and as a blanket statement for 3 rail operation especially with tight curves, a stretch. Diesels may be a different story but I don't have any.
It was probably easier to make the electronics 2/3 and install them in all of the scale items than to make two completely different separate electronics schemes is my guess.
One thing I can confirm is that an MTH 2 rail N&W Class A will negotiate a 36" radius curve in 2 rail with no problem. It doesn't look good doing it but what it will do would be a surprise to most. My thought is you should invest in an MTH 2/3 Class A and see how it works for you on your track.
Christopher, just curios but what is the MTH part number for your Class A?
GRJ, I wish I would known about your Mikado. I have been looking for one in NYC with scale wheels for years. Unless your price was in the heavens I would have taken it off your hands. At this point I would take any road name.
Bummer, I don't even remember where I sold it, I just know that I decided it wasn't going to work for me.
Christopher, my new layout was assisted (or rather I assisted him) by a 2-rail guy that has done tons of layouts. The main platform is as level as I've ever seen any layout, and way better than what I'm used to. With the combination of the multi-ply and the Homasote, it should be nice and quiet as well. You can see my state of progress here: New Train Room Finally Getting A Layout!
With Gargraves track and Ross switches, I suspect the scale wheel stuff will probably run here. However, before I buy anything, I'd have to see a couple run here first.
Everybody put a Decibel App on your smartphone, run your trains, and let us know what the readings are.
My 3-rail BPRC-equipped trains (up to 12 freight cars or 6 passenger cars) running on 2-rail code 148 track on rubbery 3/8" thick anti-fatigue matting on top of 1/2" plywood registers about 70 dB tops. That is without any sound coming from the electronics (BPRC = no sound as of yet).
I do have a portable AC and a fan in the room so the dBs may even be lower.
Strummer posted:Ron H posted:Three rail can be quiet.
Wow, that's impressive; what's your secret?
Mark in Oregon
Was the "secret" revealed ?
We are just starting a new layout at our club, and would appreciate any great ideas for table design for Atlas 3 rails.
Thanks !
Mike CT posted:Two rail curves, in most cases, have to be twice as large. While O72 works well for 3 rail. Two rail would start, for small locomotives, at O100 or larger. You would need more space for two rail curves, though some have done two rail switching layouts, on smaller spaces. IMO. Mike CT.
Not so. You are repeating old biases. Restrict your gear to 40-50' pieces and you can easily use 32"R curves.
I am having trouble figuring out the power supply needs for a modest size 2 rail set up, what power source do you prefer and how large, etc thanks
I have Lionel PH180 bricks to my districts and I really like them. The MTH bricks are good too but less powerful. They also need extra protection added.
Bob Delbridge posted:Everybody put a Decibel App on your smartphone, run your trains, and let us know what the readings are.
My 3-rail BPRC-equipped trains (up to 12 freight cars or 6 passenger cars) running on 2-rail code 148 track on rubbery 3/8" thick anti-fatigue matting on top of 1/2" plywood registers about 70 dB tops. That is without any sound coming from the electronics (BPRC = no sound as of yet).
I do have a portable AC and a fan in the room so the dBs may even be lower.
My trains just got way louder now that I ballasted my two rail track on cork roadbed to plywood base. It is amazing to me just how loud it now is. I did not realize how loud it would get.
OK, I may be missing the point and if so I apologize. If one of your reasons for considering the switch is the noise factor then fine and understandable. With that being said, the idea of 2 rail being more prototypical than 3 rail is irrelevant. I think ALL of us know which one is more prototypical. My question is for those that say make the switch for prototypical reasons...is the prototype quiet? I'm just saying.
Dave
I have made over to two rail from three rail over the past two years.
My two rail layout is much quieter than it was when it was three rail. The base is open L- Girder frame with a 1/4 plywood top. 1" foam is glued to the top with foam compatible construction adhesive . The track is glued to the cork roadbed (With Elmer's white glue) which is glued to 1/4 foam subroadbed (With the foam compatible construction adhesive). This is a popular method within the HO modellers. FYI, I use Atlas O 2 rail code 148 track (I used Atlas O 3 rail track on the previous layout).
I have found this method to be extremely quiet. Additionally, since I don't operate sound equipped locomotives. The only sound is the wheels on rails which is very pleasing and relaxing. There are no screws or fasteners to allow vibrations to get to the wooden base.
Ricky 
I used Celotex. Most of my track is handlaid on wood ties. One section of plastic tie Atlas flex track is dramatically quieter than the wood tie sections adjacent to it.
Quietest railroad was Milt Sorenson's. He used Tru Scale, but underneath that a strip of old rubber outdoor carpet. Dead quiet.
wb47 posted:I am having trouble figuring out the power supply needs for a modest size 2 rail set up, what power source do you prefer and how large, etc thanks
Since all my 2-rail were can-motor equipped, I just used my MRC "Controlmaster V" or Heathkit unit (left over from my old HO days) and they worked just fine. I'm sure some here will say you need something more robust, but I never had any issues...
Mark in Oregon
wb47 posted:
"I am having trouble figuring out the power supply needs for a modest size 2 rail set up, what power source do you prefer and how large, etc thanks"
I use the very robust and reliable MRC Controlmaster 20's. They will run anything in two rail. The MRC 6200 is another good,reliable and inexpensive choice.
Ricky
Ricky Tanner posted:wb47 posted:"I am having trouble figuring out the power supply needs for a modest size 2 rail set up, what power source do you prefer and how large, etc thanks"
I use the very robust and reliable MRC Controlmaster 20's. They will run anything in two rail. The MRC 6200 is another good,reliable and inexpensive choice.
Ricky
There's a really good option...
Mark in Oregon
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