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I made comments, with pictures, in a different thread but no one has offered an opinion/help.  I've been watching the 'view' count and see that almost no one has even opened the thread, which, if opened and 1st post read, has nothing to do with my issue and I probably should not have added to that thread.  So I'd like to try here.

I have 2 posts (at the bottom as of right now) within the thread asking for opinions/help.  My question centers around how to place the O-27 remote control track on the base of the platform.  I really would appreciate help.

milk car help with O-27 track

as always, thanks - walt

Last edited by walt rapp
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9E682236-FB9F-4358-9BAF-93364197D95B365090F7-1C6B-4CC5-A34E-D07C139AA425Walt, I don’t use O-27 track, so no experience with it and milk cars. However I think I might be able to help. Looking at the end of the platform you can see an outer tab and an inner tab. The inner tab, closest to the platform has a slot in it.

If you make sure the side of the track closest to the platform fits into that slot, that should put the track in the right spot. When I tested it, the doors did hit, but still opened enough for the man to push the cans out.

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Last edited by Ross

Wish I could help Walt.  I use 3662 milk cars and have operated them on super O track and on the prewar O operating track.  I did not have a problem with the doors on either.  Have you tried using your milk car with a different stand?  It's possible the height on your particular one is just a bit higher than normal.  If you want to live with your existing equipment then I would suggest putting a shim under the track to raise it up enough for the door to clear.

Walt,

My recommendation is that you use basswood strip to elevate the 0-27 unloading track and straight track on both sides of the unloading magnet center probably around 2 feet for a relatively smooth transition. I have the unload/uncouple track for O gauge, you will have to determine the required shim thickness to elevate the unload and adjacent track to lift the car and unloading mechanism to clear the metal unloading deck platform. Your unloading platform base should lie directly on your deck, the shim strip should be in three pieces, one piece will be positioned between the bottom of the unloading track and the top of the metal base of the unloading track. The other two pieces should be equally spaced on both sides the 0-27 track that connect to the unload track to elevate the track. This shimming should resolve the interference problem.   

ross: appreciate the attempt to help but I have tried your suggestion already and if you notice, the track sits tilted since the other tab doesn't have  a notch and that side of the track is elevated.

Don: the platform is in the lower slots.  Here's a picture that I posted in that other thread that shows it in the lower slots:

car

John: I used your suggestion in the past putting a piece of proper thickness foam core.  that worked but way back when I brought this topic up for the first time advice was given to me as to how to avoid needing it.  That advice, replicated in the other thread that I listed above, shows the track sitting ON all 4 tabs avoiding the notches.

I didn't have the equipment out back then so I couldn't see how that would work.  Now that I have the stuff out and can test, putting the track on all 4 tabs does seem to get the car to the correct height and allows for the doors to fully open.

the issue is, and I suppose my question is, that the track seems unstable.  I'm asking if, when hooked up to other tracks on both sides, if that solidifies it.

Else, I'm back to using the shim again.



As always, thanks - walt

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With the 6019 notches lined up, if you screw down the ends of the adjoining track, it will hold it tight.  For my milkstand, I took a hamer and smashed the tabs flat.  Nothing sacred about doing it the Lionel way.   I first used it with fastrack, then reverted to tubular.   With the track installed, on  both adjoining track ends, I screwed them to the table.  Holds it tight and flat.  It also holds the milkstand in alignment.   

One other thing, is the door on you 3472 low?  Looking closely at the picture of your 3472,  the door frame looks lower than normal.   Usually the top of the door frame is all the way up to the top of the ridge or a smaller gap.  There looks to be a 1/8"-3/15" gap on yours.    Take a look at various 3472 pictures on google, the ones with plastic doors.   Toy tolerances are always fun to work with.

thanks Vhubbard.  I don't have any knowledge of how the doors are supposed to fit but it would seem kind of hard to alter the height of them.  But I will do as you suggest and check out some others, not that there's anything I can about mine even if they are low.

I'm looking forward to setting up this year's Christmas layout on which I plan to use the milk platform.  It will be the first time that I'll be trying to use it.

As always, thanks everyone that pitched in with ideas - Walt

Walt,

I read your response to my suggestion. My setup is Gargraves Phantom 3-rail track on Midwest Product cork roadbed, the Lionel Uncouple- Unload O Gauge Track section rests on the upward bend nibs of the unloading platform, special adapter pins from Gargraves connects the Lionel O gauge Uncouple- Unload  Track Section. Given this is a different setup then you use, the overall height of the Lionel and Gargraves is basically the same on my application. Both of our unloading platforms seem to be the same, one difference is the Lionel Milk Cars, mine was from the 1955/1956 train set. The four upward bent nibs that support the unloading track from the base of the platform is probably 1/8 inches high. I recommend that if possible remove the unload platform and unload track from your adjacent track, place your unload track on the platform nibs, remove the milk car plastic upper body by removing the end screws, then place the steel lower car body on the unload track, operate the milk man and the metal base he stands on , to check for interference. This may give you a good indication what is going on and how to correct it.   

Walt,

VHubbard may be on to something there about the door height. In the back of the door frame is a tab which is supposed to go up behind door opening. But it can be too tight to go up easily. When it is up all the way the top of the door frame is pretty tight to the top of the car side. Here is a photo of the tab and doors of three of my milk cars.3CC2C43A-DC95-4C60-BEC4-BF66E39CEE6765717129-4701-48A3-A884-D127270CE58959C3E285-CB8B-4747-B418-C612942BB90AFE569C6F-4CF8-46EC-8E1D-1024418152CF

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Last edited by Ross

Ross,

I will make a point of looking at the door more carefully.  Thanks for the images and the 'TAB' comment.  I would guess that I have to take the body off to see if it is properly set but maybe a close examination without doing that will be enough.

So IF that is the issue, how do I fix it?  I'm guessing take off the body and carefully force it in position.

I bought this car at the Fort Pitt train show.  It operates well, is perfectly clean, but I know nothing about its history.

As always, thanks - walt

i think I've reached the point where I'm just going to have to try things to see what works.  Whether that's using a shim or placing the specialty track on top of the 4 tabs, we'll see.

As a side note, this is a 3472. Ross showed 2: one a 3472 and the other a 3482.  I'm not knowledgeable to know the difference IF there is one

I checked out the doors and to me they are properly placed.  Here are some images.

A closeup of the doors (i have 2 images and include both in case one is clearer)

PICT0039PICT0038

These next 2 images show why I think the door cannot change position.  Before that let me add that I tried to see if I could alter the positioning and I could not.  These 2 images show that the bottom of the door frame has 2 tabs.  The images show them squarely in place tight up against the floor of the car.

PICT0040

PICT0041

I appreciate those that chipped in to offer suggestions but it seems like my 2 listed above are the conclusions I've reached.

As always, THANKS = walt

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Last edited by walt rapp

8E3F98D2-10DF-48ED-BEAC-C7ADBAA0DA1A4F227701-7339-417B-BA3E-4E37B7D6C2FFWalt, looking at those pictures, I agree the doors look right. One final thing before you go to shims. You mentioned the track is not sitting level on the platform. When you spitting the track on the platform, where are you routing the control box? When I was testing, I put the control box through the hole under the platform. When I did that there were cutouts on the outside of the track that fit over the tabs on the platform.

Last edited by Ross

Ross,

Thanks again for staying with this.

I don't recall saying that the track is not sitting level on the platform.  If I did I put it in context: One suggestion said to put the outer rail in to the slots in the tabs.  I then responded that if I do that the track will sit unevenly then.  In fact, the picture that was posted where he illustrated showed the track leaning to one side.

I was really hoping that someone with a milk car/platform who uses O-27 track could give a definite answer but that isn't happening it seems. 

But I do appreciate all of the suggestions and comments.  No one is obligated to jump in and take the time to read, digest, and offer an opinion so I always appreciate when they do.

As always, thanks - walt

I tested and what worked is to place the track on all 4 tabs but don’t use the slot in the tabs. What caught me off guard was that the specialty track itself has slots in it appropriately spaced. So I had to avoid those and just get the track resting on all four tabs. It was far enough away from the platform that I could eject milk jugs successfully.

My thought is that when I’m ready to set it on to the layout this Christmas after I fix tracks on both sides and screw them down it will be very stable.



I want to thank everybody again who pitched in an offered ideas.

as always, thanks – Walt

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