More info in the Lionel Modular kits

These typical responses are exactly why nothing will be manufactured here in the U.S.

Ed,

 

That's one of the best parts of the idea!  I can't run more than a 7 car train on my 12' x 12' room layout. With modules, if you want a longer train, just add some modules (and some cars).

 

My suggestion on 30" corners would provide a local club with a way to setup a decent size layout without 8 corner pieces - the tradeoff is O36 and O48 instead of the larger curves.  I think it would be simple for Lionel/LCCA to offer both corner configurations.

 

Looking forward to the January article.

 

Ansonnn, most of the DIY modules will be made in the USA!

 

Ed

 

ps. I disagree on the need for feeds for Fastrack.  On my 12' x 12' layout I have a drop about every 6 or 7 pieces of track and it works fine. Track's been there for 3 years now, not fastened down, no connection issues.  On my current portable layout, that's 4' x 6.5', I have 2 drops for each loop. I've had a lot more connectivity issues with Realtrax.

 

quote:

As for the brackets being the most expensive part of the kit, I wonder how that is possible.  I know that it doesn't cost that much to have some metal bent, especially in any quantities.

.

As far as I can tell, the most expensive item in that kit (other than the brackets), is the $12 harness. Other than that, its a fraction of a plywood sheet and a cut down 1x4 + fastening hardware.

So you're looking at an item which costs more than $12 being most expensive. I can see these things costing a good bit. Steel isn't terribly cheap, and having the huge press to bend 1/4" plate means they've got to be outsourced. You're not talking about a run of 1000s of these things, so to a big machine shop, its probably a small to medium size order.

 

BUT As is pointed out in the post above, the bracket isnt needed, what matters is that you have a 31" leg with an adjusting bolt in the bottom. I.e. it doesnt matter how you attach the legs, as long as you've got legs.

You can make essentially the same thing with a 4x4 fence post, with a 1.5" square notch ripped out of it. Or you can do it with a 2x2 and any other piece of wood arranged in an L and screwed together. Or you can do it with 2 2x2s and a 1x4 behind it arranged in a channel against the side. With any of them, you just use a T-nut and an eye bolt to tighten the leg up, just like the bracket they use.

Like has been said, there's 1001 ways to put legs on these things.

 

Regarding the conductivity, I've never used fastrack, so I dont know, but my experience with modules is to NEVER rely on the track to pass power between modules. The end joints of the track get bumped up and all the assembly/disassemby loosens up the track joints. Lionel sells a 30" piece of fastrack, a 30+10 for each track would be a much better choice than 4 10" pieces. It also makes connecting each piece (if necessary) a lot simpler.

Chasing down a bad connection once a layout is put together is always a pain in the neck.

 

Why disagree on something that will make it more reliable ?  if you don't have problem, good for you but I experience those problems so it's happen.   It's far more simple to add the terminal before and they cost only 14 cents. 

 

 

http://www.digikey.ca/product-...1/A27754CT-ND/456842

If you use the 30 + 10 straights tracks for a module you should only need one power connection per track. I am pretty sure this is mentioned in the manual. On the curves you may need more especially for the o84 track.

The concerns about continuity from one end of the module to the other are legitimate. The module I assembled in the video was actually only two sections of track, a 30 inch plus a 10 inch straight. Some time after York, we will be adding additional track plans including switches for the modules. These will necessarily require more sections of track and I agree that more drops from the track will be the best insurance and I would recommend it. You can bring as many as you wish through the table and join them together before connecting them to the terminal strip. It would even be efficient to have a second terminal strip if you have many drops on one module. This would allow a single, or perhaps two connections to the main power strip. Also remember that power is transmitted from one module to the next through the harness as well as the track.

 

The continuity tests shown on the video are an important step to ensure that your module is wired correctly.

 

When an event occurs, there will be a testing procedure for each module. As Boilermaker states above, it would be very difficult to trace a problem once the modules are all assembled into a layout.

 

My comment about the cost of the leg brackets dealt with the fact that four of them are required for each kit.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Best,

Bill Schmeelk

Why do folks have to email for the specifications?  Wouldn't it make more sense to have a link to the download on the website?

I believe the specifications are linked in the modular section of the LCCA's website www.lionelcollectors.org

 

Al K.

John,

 

i posted a direct link for you yesterday.  It links to a PDF file that is the manual with specification drawings.

 

http://www.lionelcollectors.or...nual%20Final%204.pdf

 

ed

There are links to the manual from the Lionel website. If you go to 'News Stand', you will see a notice about the modules. Click 'More', to see the whole article. On that page there are both direct links to the manual, and also a link to the Lionel 'Blog' that contains a link to the manual.

The prices seem high, but not as bad as some here make them sound. I had to build 2 straight modules for the club I am in (they are 30x 45) and I bet I have close to $200 in them, not including the plexiglass "sneezeguard". That price includes Gargraves track, the 3/8" plywood tops, and 2 x 2 legs with leveling carriage bolts. It also includes four C clamps instead of the cam locks or whatever they are called to hold the modules to the next ones; they probably cost about the same though.

 

The main thing I'd gripe about is the idea that you can fit a 30 x 60 module in a car. I think that's a bit optimistic for most cars (won't fit) and most people (too heavy for them to lift). I can fit my 2 30 x 45 modules in the trunk of our car if I fold down the back seats and pull the front seats nearly completely forward. That allows the front passenger seat to hold the tool box (with the leg hardware, filler tracks, and c clamps) and a small box with the scenic items (buildings, vehicles, people).

 

J White

Since I have a 2 seat sports car, the idea of packing any sized module around with me is pretty comical.   Our modular club has 48x30 modules with dual mainlines.  We also use clamps and Atlas track.  I figure the actual modules with the cork and track cost less than $100 to build, but then you start adding stuff and the cost goes up.  One has a switch and siding, that was about $80 for that alone, etc.

If someone want to build  straits modules and  at home or at the club he don't want to invest in corner module he just have to make 2 end modules with 4x8 tables and c clamp them to his modules.  He will still have 084 and 072 curves. Or he can make them smaller and use 036 if he want. But for the show the standard as to stay with 072 minimum  

Another alternative is the "water wings" style of return loop module. About halfway down this page is a 4'x6' O-42 example done by Howard "AGHRHowie" Packer back in our Tinplate Tracker days.

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~mcj...T_SpecialModules.htm

 

We used them for several small shows way back when. 

We agree!  My thought is that if they spec'ed out and offered a 30"x30" corner kit, it would be a cost saver for individuals and clubs that wanted to set up a small layout with O36 and O48 curves. Otherwise, the straight modules alone will probably spend a lot of time collecting dust at home.

 

The main thing I'd gripe about is the idea that you can fit a 30 x 60 module in a car. I think that's a bit optimistic for most cars (won't fit) and most people (too heavy for them to lift). I can fit my 2 30 x 45 modules in the trunk of our car if I fold down the back seats and pull the front seats nearly completely forward. That allows the front passenger seat to hold the tool box (with the leg hardware, filler tracks, and c clamps) and a small box with the scenic items (buildings, vehicles, people).

J White, just to be clear, I am using 30x60 straights. 

Lionel/LCCA straight modules are 30x45. 

For me, I've figured I can fit about 4 of "my" straights (30x60)  and 4 of "my" corners (30x30) in my small SUV. By design, two of my corners bolted together = 1 of my straights. My 30x60 modules with track attached (un-scenic-ed) weigh under 10 pounds. I use 1/4" plywood instead of 3/8" for the top.

 

Ed

Has anyone purchased these yet?

 

Gunny

I'm bringing this up because the Chattanooga LCCA is having a Fastrack Module get-together (see other recent post), so I decided to review the module specs and cost.  I like the module specs with O-84 and O-72 curves, my layout is smaller with O-60 and O-48 loops, so I would enjoy buiding enough modules to be able to setup a temporary modular layout in the garage on occasion.

 

Anyone know if any dealers are discounting the kits off the MSRP?  I might purchase a couple kits to get started, then perhaps "roll my own" ...  time and energy dependent.   -Ken

I hope you getg some pictures, I really want to see how these look

I am reviewing the LCCA video at this link:

 

http://lionelllc.wordpress.com...ilroad-introduction/

 

As others have already mentioned, it is quite excellent!

WHOA! WAIT! i thought those modules were already built and textured for that price.

Am I correct in understanding, those outrageous prices are for unassembled kits?

If so, I would rather build them myself and buy trains with the money I save...looks easy peasy.

Lionel needs to stick with over priced trains.

TOriginally Posted by Al K.:

Al

 

That is the direction we are taking at our Club. We bought the template and one straight section kit at York last week. Using that as a guide, we plan to build the rest of the modules ourselves.

 

john