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Howdy two railers,

I recently purchased a very nice CLW RS3 that has a big fat, power draining open frame motor in it. I want to convert it to a can motor so I can run DCC and not kill my transformer as I throw a circuit breaker every time this bad boy goes above a couple scale miles per hour. Any suggestions as to what will fit in there or where I can get a "generic" motor mount for a Pittman ball bearing motor?

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As far as I know, CLW never made an RS3 model.     CLW meaning Central Locomotive Works? 

Precision scale would be the best bet for a motor mount in brass.    However, I think you are going to have to modify whatever you get.    P&D Hobbies also has had some brass motor mounts.     You may just want to modify the ones you have.

By the way, I have many open frame motors running on my layout exclusiively with DCC.    I have found they draw in the neighborhood of 2 amps in most cases, some more, some less.    I have programmed my Digitrax breakers to 6 amps since I have an 8 amp digitrax command station.   

Most DCC systems are alt least 5 amps.   So you could try setting your breakers to 3 amps and see what happens.

Hi Jim, it sounds like we may have the same Digitrax system as mine is also the 8 amp version but for some reason the locomotive will only run very slowly before it kills the circuit breaker thus a faulty motor.   I removed the motor and tested all of the gearing to ensure there was no binding causing the issue. This is definitely a Central Locomotive works RS3 or at least all of the drive components are, CLW is stamped all over everything.  I have a similar model (RS3) from the early 80's but I cannot remember if I bought it from Kemtron or CLW but I am thinking Central?  I will look at what mounts are available from Precision.  The only one I found at P&D appears to be what they used in their F units and my model has a skeleton type frame without a floor so that would not work. Thanks for your help!


Assume you have brass rails running from truck to truck.  If so, glue wood triangles to them in the shape of a cradle, fitting a Pittman 8x24 in there aimed at the tower inputs.

Carefully drill holes in four places to accept .032 aircraft safety wire.  Angle them down so they clear the bottom of the wood blocks.

Wrap the motor in a fragment of an old bicycle inner tube, and wire it in place.  Half-hour.

Recommend Toyota #0 hose in place of a U-joint at the motor.  Use a good U joint at the tower, and a slip coupling.  I use square tube for slip-couplings, soldered on to round for the hose and U joint.


I remember the both CLW and AN offered mechanisms to power the Kemtron RS3.     the Kemtron kit as I remember, was delivered  unpowered.     The Kemtron parts went to an outfit called Rex I think and the P&D bought them and offered the RS3 kit for awhile.    I think some of their brass Alco parts are the old Kemtron line.    They never offered the GP7.   

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