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I have a MTH 30-2159-0 C&NW Doodlebug that has worked fine for the time I have had it.  Went to run it today, and it just blows the horn non stop, worked fine about a week ago.  I tried it on different loops, with a different transformer and the same thing.  I have done the "reset" with the Z4000, it seemed to go through the stages, but no change.  There is no volume control that you can turn.  There are two grey wires that go to the speaker that I guess I could cut each, they go from the board to the speaker.  I could live with no horn, not sure if there is another way to stop the horn.  If I cut the two wires, could that cause any other issues?  I don't want to run it with the horn going 100% of the time.  This is a horn only engine, no battery.  

Thanks

Tony

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 I don't have those answers for you. I hate seeing posts go unanswered. So I try to draw attention from the experts here.

I don't have any -0 engines. I am not familiar with how they work. I have seen horn blasts from engines that loose ground. I tied the outside rails together and that solved an issue with one engine that kept blasting the horn. Maybe you could try it for a test? If you have a meter for testing, check that all wheels are grounding and check both power pick-up rollers for good paths. Maybe inspect the wires for rubbing on the chassis? Usually right where they connect to the trucks and enter the engine.

 I have also read that horn blasts can be from engines running on AC that has DC leaked to the rails. You may have already eliminated that by trying a different transformer.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

John, here are the pictures of the underside and inside of mine.  Somewhat different than the MTH parts breakout.  It is weird, the owners manual talks about a battery, but there is none.  They talk about the volume control, but there is none.  My guess is they used the same manual for ones with Protosound, 30-2159-1, and the ones that just have the horn, like mine, 30-2159-0.

So do you think I can just cut, or de-solder, the grey wires at the speaker?

Tony

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I have those direct replacements in stock.  It might be the top horn board, but it also could be the bottom DCRU providing a DC offset up to the horn board.  Hard to say without testing.

Either way it can be repaired.

As a note, since you showed it as XX-XXXX-0 it is a conventional type engine, so NO volume switch and also no reset codes.  DCRUs just have a reverse unit lockout switch like almost all conventional engines of any manufacturer.  G

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