(hi for my first post here after looking as a guest for a long time?)
I was just wondering if anyone had one of these and could comment on it? I'm curious about using it as a simple way to control one train on the floor without worrying about the limit of a fixed-position transformer. and yep I pretty much have zero plan for any kind of track accessories
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I have one but hardly use it anymore now that I have the full DCS system.
Mine works fine and does everything I want from an engine. If you're only going to run 1 engine at a time and don't care for things like crew talk or the ability to turn some sounds on/off or check status of things like running time/distance of an engine, then go for it.
It let's you perform the basic controls (forward/reverse/speed) of an engine and gives you bell/horn/whistle.
You have to more or less point the handheld in the direction of the receiver, but it's a wide beam, kinda like your TV remote.
I've been using mine on a piece of test track I have.
I have one too and my comments basically echo Bob's. I like it for small setups but it sees little use now that I have a dcs. If you have been running a ps2 or ps3 conventionally you will be amazed how slow they can go with remote. The coupler control is very reliable. I had some trouble getting accustomed to the slow accel/decel rates. Also you have to learn to point it in the general direction of the receiver, not at the moving train. Simple to use, quick to learn.
Note - if your dcs engine has been used on a dcs controlled layout you will need a factory reset to clear out the engine address. The remote commander only works with engines with the default address of #1. If there is a different address in the locomotive it will just sit there.
In short, great way to get more out of your loco for a small investment.
It's a great device for fretting started with DCS. Be aware, however, that it only works with MTH PS2 and PS3 engines.
had not quite realized yet that it was actually infrared instead of rf operated. guess thats something for me to think about with buying one of these versus just buying the 50-1001 dcs kit
thanks for the replies either way 
If you want to learn all about the capabilities of the "full" DCS vs. the DCS Remote Commander, you'll find all of the answers in The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.
This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!
I have one of the DCS-RC sets, I just dig it out for testing. The full DCS is way more capable.
I did use one for a few weeks until I picked op a full DCS system. It worked very well.
Howdy,
I have two that came with the RTR Sets. They do what the manual says they will do. However, I had one of the engines that came with the RTR Set that absolutely refused to respond to the IR remote. 
Brian my favorite MTH Technician at my favorite dealer (Stockyard Express LLC),
kindly did a factory re-set twice and the engine still wouldn't work with the IR remote. 
I now have the DCS System and everything works flawlessly. BTW both of the IR Controllers that came with the RTR sets are back in the set boxes and on the shelf. Just Sayn'
Chief Bob (Retired)
... a simple way to control one train on the floor without worrying about the limit of a fixed-position transformer
As long as your one train is MTH PS2/3, I'd say it's the best value alternative to fixed-position. Since it works with AC or DC, you have a lot of options on power sources. As I see it, before command-control, for decades O-gauge got along just fine thank you with forward, reverse, and whistle/bell with a fixed-position variable voltage transformer. The Remote Commander does all these without the fixed-position restriction and with a fixed-voltage (less expensive) power source.
If you "do" eBay there is a reasonably brisk market for these so you can buy, try, and re-sell (if you don't like it) for not much net out-of-pocket.
thanks for your side on this stan2004 but I've already came to realize that it might be better to just buy the complete dcs kit especially in case the floor-running train eventually turns into an actual train layout or something to that effect
and beside playing around with the smoke effect independent of the throttle may be a good bit of humor especially if someone thought the train was sitting dead 
I have a brand new never used IR and when i apply power the green light does not come on, and there is no power to the rails, any suggestions will be appreciated. I have three of these units non power up???It is the pre 2001 model, it is a lock on type with a power cable from a 1000 watt transformer. all three are this type
@Woody18655 posted:I have a brand new never used IR and when i apply power the green light does not come on, and there is no power to the rails, any suggestions will be appreciated. I have three of these units non power up???
Probably need at least a picture of how you have things wired to help you.
@Woody18655 posted:I have a brand new never used IR and when i apply power the green light does not come on, and there is no power to the rails, any suggestions will be appreciated. I have three of these units non power up???
What unit? Are you still talking about the MTH 50-1033? There is no green light on it.
If you're talking about the MTH 50-1012 RailKing IR Remote Control System, how exactly are you trying to get it to function? Note that it also doesn't have a green light.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:What unit? Are you still talking about the MTH 50-1033? There is no green light on it.
If you're talking about the MTH 50-1012 RailKing IR Remote Control System, how exactly are you trying to get it to function? Note that it also doesn't have a green light.
He said 2001. They had these in 2001?? I thought they came out later in sets. Apologies for lack of knowledge, I have been "out of it" for awhile. Greg
The lower is the one the train sets came with them , instead of a Zcontroller. i opened three sets and none of them power up????
With three of them not working, I'd say I'd have to know more about exactly how you're connecting and powering them up.
@Woody18655 posted:I have a brand new never used IR and when i apply power the green light does not come on, and there is no power to the rails, any suggestions will be appreciated. I have three of these units non power up???It is the pre 2001 model, it is a lock on type with a power cable from a 1000 watt transformer. all three are this type
You do know there is a manual reset circuit breaker on the side of the Z1000 brick right? If it's flipped out, then you won't get any power out and that could be the source of your problem.
Picture below is the pushed in "ON" not tripped state. The middle portion flips out and shows a white strip on the edge when tripped.
Tried to-do it in passive mode but that didn't work either, tried new transformer, power to track with lighted lock on, transceiver no power light on.
@Woody18655 posted:Tried to-do it in passive mode but that didn't work either, tried new transformer, power to track with lighted lock on, transceiver no power light on.
Well, this one won't work in passive mode ever. It's purpose is to control the power through it, from the input jack to the track-(think of it as a powermaster lite) it does the same function- just controlled by an IR remote. It varies the voltage (kinda like a Zcontroller) and has the equivalent of bell, whistle, and direction buttons- all controlled and activated via the IR remote.
@Woody18655 posted:The lower is the one the train sets came with them , instead of a Zcontroller. i opened three sets and none of them power up????
@Woody18655 posted:I have a brand new never used IR and when i apply power the green light does not come on, and there is no power to the rails, any suggestions will be appreciated. I have three of these units non power up???It is the pre 2001 model, it is a lock on type with a power cable from a 1000 watt transformer. all three are this type
Your pictures attached from your previous post from the above quote.
Again, this type is the non-DCS and non "digital" version,it is not a 50-1033.
This is the original IR controller that is for conventional control only, it varies the AC voltage on the track and can provide a DC offset signal for traditional Bell and Whistle/Horn commands.
AC voltage from one of the MTH Z series bricks (Z500, Z1000, unsure about the Z750 21V brick??) must go into the round power jack, and then via IR command from the matching remote, you can raise track power from 0V upwards using the remote.
It will not work in "passive" mode by supplying power into the lockon connection.
FWIW, the manual for this specific controller.
https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/30as10319i.pdf
Press the upper end of the handheld’s throttle control rocker switch
to send voltage to the track. Because this is an infrared line-of-sight
remote, you must aim it at the lock-on in order to send signals to the
track. The green LED atop the lock-on will come on, indicating the
track is receiving power. Subsequent pushes of any buttons on the
remote will cause the LED to blink, indicating it is receiving the
signal
So reading that, the LED might be off until you begin to command power to be on using the up portion of the grey middle rocker button on the remote and then the LED blinks as it receives this incoming IR command.
this is photos from the train set that the commander came from, like i said, it was from a proto 2 train set.
Only thing I can think of is a battery problem in the hand held controller.
@Joe Allen posted:Only thing I can think of is a battery problem in the hand held controller.
Simple test: Fire up your Cell phone camera and point the remote at the camera lens. Press the buttons on the remote and watch the IR LED in the screen for flashes of light. If you see the flashes, the remote works perfectly.
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