Help.MTH Part#20-2714-1 CSX F40PH Blew Capacitor

The blown cap is probably not user error. Capacitors from a certain time period were prone to this kind of failure. 

I don't know if the board is toast. There are folks here who would know, but they'd likely spot this post faster if you edited the title to read "MTH CSX F40PH part#20-2714-1 Blew a Capacitor". At the moment, it looks like a misplaced buy/sell post.

---PCJ

Thank you, I didn't pay that much attention to the tittle. You're absolutely right...I just changed it.

Did you change the battery before you powered it up?  

No, didn't know it had a battery until I took the shell off. This is my first "Newer tech." train. Will the battery being dead cause this?

How about telling us the product number.  This is getting old when guys look for help and give no information to work with.  Some information or maybe a photo or two.  

Hi Marty,

Hope this helps.....I ordered another capacitor(WinCap 105GP 330UF 35V)....Should be here Monday so i'll try and solder it in but even if it does work i just want to make sure i'm not missing something. I'm sure this loco has been sitting for quite some time but when i put it on the track all lights came on and the proto sound started and sounded great. As soon as i gave it throttle it popped and smoked.

MTH- F40PH part#20-2714-1 Diesel Locomotive CSX 9993

Adam. this is what you need. The white battery is a dinosaur.Hopefully the board's not toast.  Good luck.

https://mthtrains.com/50-1008    

Read this.

Thanks for the green battery part# Chris. 

I read thru the posts you sent Stan, Thank you...I'll be replacing the capacitor Monday. I'll let ya know how it goes.

Adam, hopefully the cap you receive is new stock and the WinCap company is doing a better job at building capacitors. They are the only brand I've had to replace. Before going through the trouble of soldering in the new cap, you can test the board using short mini alligator clip test leads, that have the rubber boots over the clips, and jump off the post from the old cap. Watch your polarity. The post closest to the edge of the board is ground and the ground post of the new cap will be marked.

Thanks for the picture Dave, great idea. This way i can see if it works before going thru all the effort of soldering it in on such a small board. I'll let you know how it works tomorrow night. I've also got 3 of the "Green" replacement batteries coming just in case that's a cause.

Thank you guys. Nothing more i can do with this loco at the moment so i guess i'll lay some more track.

if you don't run much, and even if you do,  put a bcr in and ditch the battery.

You do not need the cap installed to test board for a short.  Just make sure leads removed so that they are not shorting boards.  If you apply power and you get high current over 2 amps most likely other components have failed on board.  G

Great! The capacitor is supposed to show up today so i'll try testing without it first. Thank you i'll let you know the outcome.

Update on my progress.....I got the capacitor and installed temporarily with alligator clips. Worked great! Then the train took off and before I could stop it PS2 board fell off and shorted on track.....

thank you all for the help. I think it’ll make a good donor loco

Sounds like it was more then the cap that needed replaced if it took off.

Hard lesson to learn, but if you had the cap why not just solder it in and test it right with board attached.  Same goes for guys that test smoke unit while holding it only to drop it and short the fan motor leads to the chassis and take out the board.

My point was you could test board with out cap.  If it powered up replace cap and then test. 

At least you have spare parts for other engines now G