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Well, according to the shipping schedule (usually found in the fiction section) the F7's are still due in December.

However, items that were due in October and November still haven't shown up.  I suspect the S Scale will be in the last container shipped.  After all, the 2019 S Scale was the only product line to get pre-order discounts, so the profit margin is lower than the all the other MTH stuff.

Rusty

Check out the MTH segment of the Virtual York video from October 2020(find with google). Rich and Andy from MTH give an update on the S Gauge locomotives, as of the end of October when the video was made. SW8s in production, may be here by late December or January. Then they say they'll make NW2s, then F7s. Nothing about rest of catalog. Subject to change of course. Have to wait and see.

Mike

Well, my Burlington F7's have arrived, or at least 2/3rds of them did.  Powered A and B.  The non-powered A hasn't arrived yet.

MTH F& CB&Q 168AB [a)

Unfortunately, I haven't excavated either my DCC system or Z-1000, so I can't test them yet.  However, everything is intact and they look good with no blemishes.

MTH F& CB&Q 168AB [b)

However, I just had to compare the MTH paint vs my SHS F3's (which match the EMD paint chip for "aluminum.")  Well, here MTH used white (as did Kato on my N scale F3's.)  The white isn't too far off  from aluminum under natural light, which is what these shots used.  Even on some prototype photos Burlington F's look white.

Also in comparing the two to prototype photos, the Burlington nose "wings" on the MTH unit appear to be slightly better shaped than the SHS model.

MTH F& CB&Q 168AB [c)

The EMD aluminum paint is somewhat of a chameleon anyway, depending on lighting.

F Color

It'll be a while before these get scalified as my workshop isn't set up yet.

So, anyway:  The last of the last MTH S Scale.  According to Doug Peck, MTH has shipped all of the remaining S scale with a few pieces still in the warehouse.  It's going to be a while before we see F's run again from the new owners, Scale Trains.

Rusty

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@Francine posted:

Hi Rusty,

So I'm not alone in awaiting the "golden goose"

Thanks Chuck, just wish they went through all the features.

MTH has the Reading f7s in this batch.  As an aside, I spoke with Ron at AM about running a Reading Company heavyweight set and he asked for pix.  I sent him more than the email could hold.

A Reading G-1 Pacific pulling a string of heavyweights.

clerestory

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

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  • clerestory

Well, I "semi-scalified" my Q F7's this weekend by mounting the scale couplers. Looks a lot better now with the gap between the units closed.

F7 BandA 1F7 BandA 2

One other thing accomplished during this round:  From MTH (SHS did it, too) the MARS light is in the nose door and the headlight in the top bezel.  I took the shell off and reversed the wires.  The headlight and MARS light are the wires with blue and green connectors.  All that was needed was to simply swap the connectors and the MARS light is on top and the headlight in the door, as it should be.

Still have a couple of things to do, but as this was literally a "kitchen table" project, the rest will have to wait for when I can get my workbench set up.  Still to be done: Modify and install the coupler cover to close the gap in the pilot, install the scale wheels and add the MU cables to the ends of the units.

I've been puttering these things back and forth on my modules using conventional DC and they run fine.  It's interesting under DC they run opposite of a conventional DC locomotive.  A minor inconvenience. The numberboards and class lights stay lit under power in both directions, the headlight and MARS light come on in forward, off in reverse.

Now to hook up my DCC system...

BTW, I also pre-ordered the non-powered A-unit, but it appears to have gone AWOL.  My LHS is looking in to it, but I don't know if it'll ever show up as it looks like production of the F7's was really tight.

Rusty

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Rusty - you mention that on the Burlington F7 the MARS light is on top - do you happen to know if UP did the same for their F and E units?  I have an American Models F-7 in UP paint that was never fully 'tricked out' (I think I have all the pieces) - and I bought a Dallee version of a MARS light (which I'm not sure they offer anymore).  But I wasn't sure which of the two light openings had the MARS light in it.

thanks, Rich

@Strummer posted:

According to the "modeltrainforum", on the UP it was the upper light that had the "Mars" feature.

Mark in Oregon

@richs09 posted:

Rusty - you mention that on the Burlington F7 the MARS light is on top - do you happen to know if UP did the same for their F and E units?  I have an American Models F-7 in UP paint that was never fully 'tricked out' (I think I have all the pieces) - and I bought a Dallee version of a MARS light (which I'm not sure they offer anymore).  But I wasn't sure which of the two light openings had the MARS light in it.

thanks, Rich

Short answer: The MARS light (or Gyralight) always goes on top.

I have never seen a photo or in real life of the MARS light being in the lower (door) opening on either an E or F unit.  Same goes for PA's, FA's, FM C-Liners, FM Erie Builts and BLW Shark Noses.  The mechanism would get in the way of the door being able to be opened all the way.

Even when Santa Fe outfitted their E6's with MARS lights, they reinstalled the headlight lower on the nose and put the MARS light in the top bezel.

The ONLY exception was the Rock Island TA, where the Rock Island cut a hole in the nose below the herald to install the light.

Rusty



I've been puttering these things back and forth on my modules using conventional DC and they run fine.  It's interesting under DC they run opposite of a conventional DC locomotive.  A minor inconvenience.



Rusty

On an all DC layout, I find that almost a show stopper.  If I understand this correctly, it means running two trains on the same loop won’t work without throwing the direction switch for each block before the engine enters it.  Man, that’s major!  I have to run my Y-3 alone because its conversion to DC (by Flyonel) makes it respond differently and if my Reading MTH F7 ever shows up, it’s going to run alone, too.

These proprietary systems are more than a PITA.  I, for one, will be glad when they are gone.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@Tom Stoltz posted:

On an all DC layout, I find that almost a show stopper.  If I understand this correctly, it means running two trains on the same loop won’t work without throwing the direction switch for each block before the engine enters it.  Man, that’s major!  I have to run my Y-3 alone because its conversion to DC (by Flyonel) makes it respond differently and if my Reading MTH F7 ever shows up, it’s going to run alone, too.

These proprietary systems are more than a PITA.  I, for one, will be glad when they are gone.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Well there are switches in the back of the loco, behind the door casting, for reversing the motor and lights for"back-to-back" DCC/DCS operation so you don't have to mess with command settings, but I don't know if they are activated in conventional DC.

All I can add is "forward" is forward under DCC with the switch setting in the default position.

Rusty

Last edited by Rusty Traque

Well there are switches in the back of the loco, behind the door casting, for reversing the motor and lights for"back-to-back" DCC/DCS operation so you don't have to mess with command settings, but I don't know if they are activated in conventional DC.

All I can add is "forward" is forward under DCC with the switch setting in the default position.

Rusty

Oh bother, what a PITA for DC runners.  But maybe a moot point because I haven't received my Reading F7s from Doug Peck yet.  I know he is over busy and I think he tool some time off.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@Tom Stoltz posted:

Oh bother, what a PITA for DC runners.  But maybe a moot point because I haven't received my Reading F7s from Doug Peck yet.  I know he is over busy and I think he tool some time off.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

OK, Tom.  I went downstairs and verified the headlight and motor switches do reverse the motor and headlight operation on conventional DC.  The "reverse" function for DC's not mentioned in the user manual.

002

Of course, you can always gut the electronics and wire things in directly.

Rusty

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OK, Tom.  I went downstairs and verified the headlight and motor switches do reverse the motor and headlight operation on conventional DC.  The "reverse" function for DC's not mentioned in the user manual.

002

Of course, you can always gut the electronics and wire things in directly.

Rusty

Thank you, thank you, Rusty.  Oh happy day!  But of course it's all dependent on mine being delivered.

How about some more good news for Reading fans?  Spoke with Ron today and they are now in the probably category for running the Reading heavyweights!!!

Tom Stoltz

in Maine, but spent my youth midway between the Lansdale and Hatboro branches.  And a lot of that time was in the YM tower at Glenside -- playing with real trains.

Note: Hatboro is named because of their 3 corner hats.

@Francine posted:

Hi Tom,

Lived and still live near the old Reading Lansdale Line.  As a kid in Ambler, it went right past my house.

I have photos of the sign on the Ambler Station,

I was just a few stations down the line in North Hills.  My wife and I lived in Oreland for a while and the Oreland Station was our back yard.

We almost bought the house at 420 Ellerslie Ave. in Ambler...

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Hi Tom,

I worked in a place that was behind the Oreland Y, you know the old Plymouth Reading Line. I followed it as far as it went.  There was a small bridge before you get to Church Road (RT 73) and there is nothing after the bridge.  They built houses were the line used to cross RT 73,  At Bethlehem pike you can still see where the line used to be, but after that nothing, not at the quarry or anywhere.

Rusty,

I see them at some places, but haven't heard a word from Hennings yet.  I know they sometimes get things late, but when the Berkshires and GP7s came out - they received them same as others.

OK, Tom.  I went downstairs and verified the headlight and motor switches do reverse the motor and headlight operation on conventional DC.  The "reverse" function for DC's not mentioned in the user manual.

The SHS F7s with Dallee Locomotic work a bit differently with the DIP switches in the back for AA/ABA/ABBA running. The lead locomotive should have its #4 (bottom) DIP switch in the OFF position for normal running and the trailing locomotive should have its #4 switch in the ON position so that its "forward" direction is in the same direction as the lead locomotive. When forward is selected on the Locomatic switch, the trailing locomotive runs backwards with its headlight off and its marker lights red. However, when reverse is selected, the trailing locomotive is now in the lead. Its Mars light cannot dim and brighten, only strobe; and its marker lights can only be red or off. The manual does not mention these differences. It only says that "all directional functions such as headlights & marker lights are switched also," but that probably only applies to straight DC operation. MTH may have done some things differently. Their unpowered F3 cab unit has headlight options and a capacitor that keeps the lights on for nearly a minute after power is removed.
@Francine posted:

Hi Tom,

I worked in a place that was behind the Oreland Y, you know the old Plymouth Reading Line. I followed it as far as it went.  There was a small bridge before you get to Church Road (RT 73) and there is nothing after the bridge.  They built houses were the line used to cross RT 73,  At Bethlehem pike you can still see where the line used to be, but after that nothing, not at the quarry or anywhere.

Rusty,

I see them at some places, but haven't heard a word from Hennings yet.  I know they sometimes get things late, but when the Berkshires and GP7s came out - they received them same as others.

F7s, Doug Peck should be back working on the 15th, but I know he is far behind on his orders.  Maybe by May 1st.

The Philadelphia side of the Y was right behind us.  I lived in the apartment on top of the bank, next to the PO from '72-'78.  You can still see it on Google Maps.  Both sides of the Y are visible as is the right-of-way.  There as a large tank car factory on the Lansdale side with a good size yard which I can't make out.  You can see the tar filled rail slots where they crossed Bruce Rd.

Our favorite watering hole was about 800 ft from where the line looks like it went under Bethlehem Pike -- Cisco's.  There's a Wissahickon Trail there the looks like it follows the right of way for a bit.

So where did you work?

Tom

Hi Tom,

Spectrocell - it back up to the line at the corner.  Remember that little hill and the tracks are at the top.

By the way, Tank Car Corporation (what reconditioned tank cars) closed about 5 years ago - it's a high rise condo/apartments now.  Miller's Trash is gone too.

By chance, did you see the Santa Train somewhere between 57 and 59?  Had a T-1, Flat Car with Santa and his elves throwing candy to the kids, a passenger car and red caboose.  I was standing right next to the drivers - can't forget the sight, sound and smells of that engine. Or when it pulled out and shot down the line like a rocket.

Francine

If you mean where the Pennsylvania Trenton Cutoff crossed Bethlehem Pike, It's now called McGurks. Was a couple of other names before.

@Francine posted:

Hi Tom,

Spectrocell - it back up to the line at the corner.  Remember that little hill and the tracks are at the top.

By the way, Tank Car Corporation (what reconditioned tank cars) closed about 5 years ago - it's a high rise condo/apartments now.  Miller's Trash is gone too.

By chance, did you see the Santa Train somewhere between 57 and 59?  Had a T-1, Flat Car with Santa and his elves throwing candy to the kids, a passenger car and red caboose.  I was standing right next to the drivers - can't forget the sight, sound and smells of that engine. Or when it pulled out and shot down the line like a rocket.

Francine

If you mean where the Pennsylvania Trenton Cutoff crossed Bethlehem Pike, It's now called McGurks. Was a couple of other names before.

Francine, we should probably take this to private email (mine’s in my profile) so these poor non-Reading nostalgia people don’t keep getting bombing with this.

But in the meantime; there is only an apartment building and the station inside the Y. Bridge St is quite a hill -- Ah, thank you Google, Spectrocell is still there with its back to the old right of way, right about where the Y comes together for the branch line.

I did see Santa, he made a stop at the North Hills Station. It was probably a little earlier then ’57, no candy, no steam. I have ridden behind, T1, 2124 several times, though. Saw it pass through when I wasn’t on the Ramble. I even switched it at the YM Tower, Glenside and had my head out the tower window as the T1 roared through.

And there’s the train wreak when the PRR Trenton Cutoff bridge, over the Reading main, collapsed with a freight rolling on it.

Tom

What you gets in the box:

Along with the scale wheels, alternate "freight pilot," coupler cover plug for the installed "passenger" pilot (A-unit), spare traction tires, Kadee-compatible couplers with bracket for the end (A and B-units) and spacer (A-unit) for the front, screws for mounting same, MU cables for the end of the units.

Almost all the same stuff S-Helper included in their F3's/F7's.  S-Helper included a couple more extra things.

Rusty

@Tom Stoltz posted:

My MTH Reading F7 A/B set has arrived. Took a quick look at the A unit, all sorts of little packages came with it and a set of scale wheels too. Unfortunately, it’s going to live in the box for a while. What are all the little extras?

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Tom, I test ran my MTH Reading F7 B and got something extra: horn, bell, and crew talk in addition to motor sounds. My MTH F3 B units only have motor sounds.

Mike

@Flyer 52 posted:

Tom, I test ran my MTH Reading F7 B and got something extra: horn, bell, and crew talk in addition to motor sounds. My MTH F3 B units only have motor sounds.

Mike

I noticed that too.  Guess MTH got lazy about the code as these things were about the last out the door.  My A and B were arguing with each other at one point before I managed to shut down crew talk in both units.  I don't care for crew talk anyway.

I didn't see any way to disable the horn and bell in the B.  Fortunately, the horn and bell appear to be in sync between the two units and they sound as one.

Rusty

The only sounds you'll get under conventional DC is prime mover sounds.  Crew talk only occurs when the locomotive is idle, you would have to have the voltage at the nether-region where there's enough volts to keep the locomotive powered up but not moving.

Rusty

Thanks Rusty, that’s a little reassuring, I hope.  And brings up another question which might hijack the thread again (I seem good at that).

Are sound systems available for DC operation?  As much as I would like to have DCC, it will probably never happen for me.  So, I’m stuck with DC – and I can’t hear the Flyer chuff anymore… even with hearing-aids!

Tom Stoltz

@Tom Stoltz posted:

Thanks Rusty, that’s a little reassuring, I hope.  And brings up another question which might hijack the thread again (I seem good at that).

Are sound systems available for DC operation?  As much as I would like to have DCC, it will probably never happen for me.  So, I’m stuck with DC – and I can’t hear the Flyer chuff anymore… even with hearing-aids!

Tom Stoltz

Modeltronics made a crude DC sound system way back in the 1970's.   PFM made an analog system that used taped sounds (as I recall.)  Both are long gone now.  The advancement of DCC  and other proprietary command systems petty much eliminated conventional sound development.

There's always the MRC Tech 6 hybrid controller, (if they ever restock it) which is designed to access some of the DCC functions while operating conventional DC.

Most of my stuff is conventional DC.  When I had my layout, that's what got the most run time.  Don't get me wrong, all this electronic hoo-ha is neat, but I sorta get bored with sounds after a while anyway.

Rusty

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the MTH catalog I ordered from had a HiRail and Scale version.  I went to my LHS (Hennings) to see if I could swap the Hi-Rail for Scale - but they informed me that the wheels and couplers were in the box and there was only one F7.

In speaking to a friend, who is very versed in this, he states that changing the wheel sets is very tricky and if you lose parts, you may be done.

Our club is phasing out DCC, don't ask me why, and the only place I will be able to run is on a super DCC layout in a friends house.

@Francine posted:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the MTH catalog I ordered from had a HiRail and Scale version.  I went to my LHS (Hennings) to see if I could swap the Hi-Rail for Scale - but they informed me that the wheels and couplers were in the box and there was only one F7.

In speaking to a friend, who is very versed in this, he states that changing the wheel sets is very tricky and if you lose parts, you may be done.

Our club is phasing out DCC, don't ask me why, and the only place I will be able to run is on a super DCC layout in a friends house.

MTH continued shipping diesel locomotives as hirail, with scale wheels and couplers in the box, just as SHS normally did.  Except, SHS would install scale wheels and couplers if requested by the customer.

Yes, it's a little tricky, but not impossible.  I've converted several SHS and MTH units without losing anything.

Rusty

My Reading F7 came in last week.  Now the curse of retirement has hit - NO MONEY.  Fortunately, another club member wanted it, so I may still get to see it.

I tell you, if it's not cash shortage, it's going to a doctor of some sort, who always tells you there is nothing that can be done.  As an older gentleman said to me at York a few years back, "Getting old is not job for sissys."

@Francine posted:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the MTH catalog I ordered from had a HiRail and Scale version.  I went to my LHS (Hennings) to see if I could swap the Hi-Rail for Scale - but they informed me that the wheels and couplers were in the box and there was only one F7.

In speaking to a friend, who is very versed in this, he states that changing the wheel sets is very tricky and if you lose parts, you may be done.

Our club is phasing out DCC, don't ask me why, and the only place I will be able to run is on a super DCC layout in a friends house.

Just reiterating what Rusty said...switching wheels is not a big deal. I have removed and replaced wheels in SHS and MTH diesels dozens of times.  The trick is removing the plastic gear box cover and sideframes (all one piece). There is a simple method of using tweezers though that makes it a snap. Tough to explain, but a picture is worth a thousand words. I don't have one I can post right now, but if you like, I can snap a photo of the method and post it here.

Chuck,

I don't have but one SHS diesel locomotive, it's an RS-3, which has American Models labeling under the SHS. Are the other diesels they made different from American Models diesels? I don't see the great difficulty in changing wheel sets if they are pretty much the same. Please help me to understand the difference.

Ray

@Rayin"S" posted:

Chuck,

I don't have but one SHS diesel locomotive, it's an RS-3, which has American Models labeling under the SHS. Are the other diesels they made different from American Models diesels? I don't see the great difficulty in changing wheel sets if they are pretty much the same. Please help me to understand the difference.

Ray

The wheelsets are the same concept.  They have brass square-shaped bearings which fit into slots.

The trick for popping off the gear box cover after you have unscrewed it is to use tweezers as a pry bar as in this photo.

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Last edited by Chuck K

Thanks Chuck,

Yes, I just grab the side frames and lift the cover off. The only thing that seems a little difficult is those bearings sometimes lift out of the pockets and can be a little hard to get back in but, after doing a few times it gets to be second nature. If the wheel set does pop out, which has happened to me, making sure to get the insulated wheels back in on the correct side and making sure the phosphor wire pick-up is on the backside of the insulated wheels. All in all it's not anything to be afraid of, just takes a little care.

Ray

@Rayin"S" posted:

....If the wheel set does pop out, which has happened to me, making sure to get the insulated wheels back in on the correct side and making sure the phosphor wire pick-up is on the backside of the insulated wheels.

Unlike the AM design, none of the SHS or MTH locos on which I have worked have this issue because both sides are insulated and both sides have wire pick-ups.

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