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On the Great Planes puller set:

FWIW, I have it and love it. I do have some tips though. I also bought this puller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDAJYSK

Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller Remover Tools Set For RC Motor Pinion Parts

The why is because both use the exact same thread on the pusher. This gives you a wider selection of matching pins for different shafts. I've also found that these pins fit into the MTH worm gears and are needed to give you the total pin length required to push them off. Put the silver pin inside the gear, use the other black pin on the Great Planes puller, you can press the gear right off.

For flywheels, I also got this puller since the gap between the motor and the flywheel prevents other types from working. I chucked up the screw section in a drill and used a Dremel and cutoff wheel to shape the pointed tip into a shaft as it needed to match the motor shaft size and actually go into the flywheel some.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFLBY1R/

Again, what I found best was buying the silver Walkera puller set, and using both sets, then you have the ultimate puller set. I saw earlier in the thread that others made custom pins for the Great Planes puller, and that's a good route too, just saying, I don't think folks might have known the 2 completely different brands were compatible, and the resulting combination set can do what the custom pin does, and more.

 

Last edited by Vernon Barry

I grabbed the Walkera set, I'll see if the pins fit the Great Planes and allow the full push.

I want to get some longer screws for the Great Planes set, and I liked the idea of using some steel tubing to align them properly as well.

The Timko puller works for me with flywheels and wheels.

Jetguy posted:
 Put the silver pin inside the gear, use the other black pin on the Great Planes puller, you can press the gear right off.

I'm not getting what you're talking about here.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Sorry, don't have it in front of me at the moment to take a picture, so trying to do this via edits.

The silver Walkera pins are of a smaller shank diameter and then also have the smaller pin tip. It just so happens that that diameter happens to match the typical bore size of the MTH worm gear from the end. The MTH worm gears (at least every one I've touched PS1, PS2, PS3, steam or diesel) is a stepped bore system. The bore through the actual screw section is larger, and then the solid shank section that matches the motor shaft is stepped smaller. It just so happens the length of these pins is near perfect as is the diameters and step shaft size. So you insert the silver pin with the small end first into the end of the worm gear. The sizing is such that the bore keeps the pin straight so the smaller tip aligns and presses on the nose of the motor shaft deep inside that worm gear. Externally, your puller is pushing on a pin, that pushes the motor shaft out of the gear. This puts no pressure on the motor body or the armature (something you already know not to do). I've circled the pins I commonly use.

Then they insert, small end first into the larger bore end of the worm gear.  Again, what folks may not know is that is a stepped bore, not a straight bore. The step is where the threads end typically. So if you use a motor shaft sized pin, it can often kink or bend in the long wider bore section because it has room to bend sideways. If you have a stepped pin, it reduces the length of the small shank and reduces the chance of bending the pin.

Image result for mth can motor

What I'm getting at is one method is a custom machined extra long pin to press these long worm gears off. Extra long for some steamers. If you make that extra long pin the same diameter as the motor shaft, even in hardened steel, it might flex, bend or break over such a long length. You could step size it diameter wise, and that's an option. What I'm giving is a third option. There is a way, with no custom pins, just these 2 puller sets, to mix and match parts such that the silver pins can be dropped into the worm gear bore and act as short of a shuttle pin, a pin that floats inside there and transfers the pushing force. This allows the puller with standard pins to push on this shuttle and press the shaft right out of the worm gear. Those same pins come handy in dozens of other situations and the fact the silver threaded section also matches the black Great planes threads means you can adapt the parts of the 2 pullers for a lot of situations that a single set could not.

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Last edited by Vernon Barry

I just received my puller from Great Plains the other day. I’ll be making y’all some pins when I get back from York.....it’ll be my pleasure....(at least until I burn up all the tool stock I have 😊) I know John wanted one and Ted, and maybe one more....y’all can shoot me an email as to who needs them bad....I’ll get the service guys like John first out....as they use these tools all the live long day.........Pat

Well, I decided to "upgrade" my gear puller with a suggestion that was posted here.  I picked up some 3/8" OD steel tubing and cut three pieces to the exact same length.  Then I repeated this for longer lengths, I made three sets.  I also picked up a longer set of screws, AAMOF I had to buy ten of them to get the correct size.  With these tubes, it's a lot easier to assemble the gear puller and get the plates exactly parallel.  My gear puller "kit" just expanded a bit!   Now I just need a longer pin for the jackscrew and I'm all set to handle worm gears.

Great Plains Gear Puller Enhancements N1Great Plains Gear Puller Enhancements N2

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Norton posted:

Just found this thread and ordered a Great Plains puller. Pat, John, any reason the back end of a drill bit wouldn't work instead of tool steel? No turning required, just drill a hole in some brass or mild steel to fit the screw.

Pete

Could work, I’ll give it a spin...if not, I’ll turn some pins down, no problem, I haven’t forgot about this project....as soon as I got back, I started finishing up projects for folks, plus Pete & I have had FEF’s on the brain...😉........Pat

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The trick is getting the drill bit perfectly straight in the base. 

I don't have the tool yet but looking at pictures it appears to have a few sizes with a wide part that fits in the screw and narrower end that fits in the gear. If thats the case its just matter of taking some bar stock , turning it down to fit the screw, then center drilling for a drill bit to fit the adapter. The bit will be centered and on axis.

Turning hard metal down to a small diameter can be tricky especially something 3/4" long. The metal wants to bend away from the cutter and hard metal shears off more easily. It would be easier on a grinding machine which is probably how the bits in this tool were made.

I did a similar thing when I made my flywheel puller but skipped the adapter and just drilled directly into the screw as I had many of those. In this case I used dowel pins instead of drill bits but drill bits use harder metal.

Pete

 

Last edited by Norton
Ted S posted:

Maybe off-topic, but I would love to learn how to use machine tools.  Lathe, drill press, etc.  I'm way too old for a H.S. shop class.  Where can I go to learn this kind of stuff in my retirement??

Some community colleges offer classes like that....ours does...don’t expect to become a machinist overnight, but at least you can get the basics..and put your hands on the machines.......Pat

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