Skip to main content

In another thread discussion, we talked about the PS1 Yellowstone, and the lack of detail the earlier PS1 Steam have. One can not argue about the ruggedness & brute construction that the PS1 line brings to the table. Often, these early examples can be had at very good prices considering what the latest offerings are currently at!….Even with electronic upgrades, and some beautification mods, you still have nearly a full featured locomotive, and not come anywhere near today’s sticker shock prices,….So, enter our test subject. This is a PS1 PRR K4 that belongs to my good buddy, and loyalty patient Dave ……This is a pretty straightforward mod, and today, I’m only gonna concentrate on the biggest eyesore part of the early PS1 steam, all of those gleaming oober shiny chrome & stainless bits, …..I’ll explain my process, but I’ll also offer DIY solutions to tackle the same job at your home shop,……this job is a lot of fun, and very rewarding if scale like fidelity is in your creed,…..let’s begin with a simple list of tools & materials needed to do the deed, ….

basic assortment of hand tools.  
drill & .068 carbide PCB resharps & a tiny centering bit. ( I’ll explain this )
Caswell chemicals black oxide solution, both steel & stainless steel.
800 grit paper & or scotchbrite pad.
WD-40 or your favorite penetrating oil.
compressed air, or a hair dryer

The carbide resharps are tiny PCB drill bits offered all over the popular shopping networks very cheap, and usually in a pack of 10 or 5, centering bits from the same places are dirt cheap as well, and will be staples if you intend to do more than one engine.

We’ll begin by removing the rods, and center drilling the axles for that prototype look, …..no science project here, just use a fine tip black sharpie, mark center, stand back and look at it, adjust the dot if needed, measure twice, and cut once, ….the carbide bit is very sharp to cut, but also very brittle, use very light pressure or the bits break easily…..after center drilling, I just touch the new hole with the centering bit, to clean up the cut, so just touch it, and pull the trigger once, and pull away,….practice on some scrap to get the hang of this, and once mastered, you’ll be a pro,…..afterwards, go ahead and completely dismantle the engine for the blackening process,……Chrome & stainless are the two materials we’re working with. Both are funny creatures to blacken vs. mild steel & pot metals ( zinc, zamac, etc, ) so there’s some steps to take to make them take the blackening process,….I start by glass beading the individual chrome rods, levers, & links. At your shop, you can scratch the chrome surface with 800 grit paper, or equivalent. Abated chrome & stainless take the blackening process, alot more evenly, and quickly,……..obviously we’re not going to blast the chassis, so I scuff the chrome tires with 800 grit paper, prepping it for the bath. Caswell’s blackening solutions are a true black oxide refinishing system, and it is a mild acid, so wear the proper PPE when utilizing this, or any chemical for that matter,…..so to refresh, the steps are: abate or scuff the parts, wash in soapy water, dunk the parts in the solution, rinse the parts, and then immediately apply penetrating oil while still wet,….the trick, and the idea here is the oxide solution has broken down the chrome and stainless, so penetrating oil will wick into the oxide, and give a long lasting durable finish,….after a few minutes soaking in the oils, use either compressed air, or a hair dryer to dry the parts,…Sometimes I have to repeat the process twice to get the desired results I want, ….how long you soak in the oxide, depends on your taste……and that’s pretty much it, reassemble, and admire your work, ……this also gives you opportunity to study your prototype, and add bits that you’d like to see,….for Dave’s K4, I looked at a few K4’s on line, and seen some neat looking crank pin configurations, so as an add on detail, I made him some much nicer crank pin bolts that really helped the look of the model,…..now this much better looking model will travel to Alex M.’s shop for all the electronics upgrades, and then Dave will have one trick pony!….

the bottom picture ( hopefully in order )  shows our star standing proud, completely surrounded in a sea of NYC motive power, but that doesn’t stop this K4 from keeping a smirk, ……😉

Pat 9BD2ACB1-0E81-441D-9D84-09C0594B64AC64FF29FF-74FB-425C-B8A2-CBB87916FA050E776C3F-DE02-40E9-9261-3D3FB24EA11704382C54-6D46-4902-884F-8648591B834CFBE285D6-7DA0-4FE2-BBE8-AFE267A9468ED8942CD3-1DE7-4D2D-8699-77F6BBF7325A7AEA1108-486E-4AF8-8E70-5F2E1E903E9988B8D524-BB79-44D1-8490-3B566BF4BB5595B573F3-BAC8-4DC9-A3F7-37153F90A2DD4C82B61D-321F-47BE-9AA1-EE2B3D7E0C23EA1A4E88-2876-4F7A-8C0A-031451768A0C6961344F-D936-4882-95FE-99371E03E16E87E2DAFF-CEB1-4662-B984-8268E6CD52BA685CFE05-BF6C-4656-8515-4267EF83864E2468B2E8-6CD2-4F63-904E-267C05C820EE

Attachments

Images (15)
  • 9BD2ACB1-0E81-441D-9D84-09C0594B64AC
  • 64FF29FF-74FB-425C-B8A2-CBB87916FA05
  • 0E776C3F-DE02-40E9-9261-3D3FB24EA117
  • 04382C54-6D46-4902-884F-8648591B834C
  • FBE285D6-7DA0-4FE2-BBE8-AFE267A9468E
  • D8942CD3-1DE7-4D2D-8699-77F6BBF7325A
  • 7AEA1108-486E-4AF8-8E70-5F2E1E903E99
  • 88B8D524-BB79-44D1-8490-3B566BF4BB55
  • 95B573F3-BAC8-4DC9-A3F7-37153F90A2DD
  • 4C82B61D-321F-47BE-9AA1-EE2B3D7E0C23
  • EA1A4E88-2876-4F7A-8C0A-031451768A0C
  • 6961344F-D936-4882-95FE-99371E03E16E
  • 87E2DAFF-CEB1-4662-B984-8268E6CD52BA
  • 685CFE05-BF6C-4656-8515-4267EF83864E
  • 2468B2E8-6CD2-4F63-904E-267C05C820EE
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

@harmonyards posted:

In another thread discussion, we talked about the PS1 Yellowstone, and the lack of detail the earlier PS1 Steam have. One can not argue about the ruggedness & brute construction that the PS1 line brings to the table

I agree, I've upgraded several dozen PS/1 steamers over the years to both TMCC and PS2 or PS3.  AAMOF, I recently acquired the aforementioned Yellowstone in PS/1, it was NIB.  I'm probably going to do PS/3 with this one.

Well, sure the custom rod bolts are trick, but that’s just tossed in there to show what’s possible, and give an example, ……everything else is fairly simple, and the oxide does the hard work, …..I could’ve reused the stock rod bolts, and 99.9% of the viewing public would’ve been none the wiser, ……..that’s not a mandatory upgrade, but every detail counts, and naturally, anybody with a PS1 K4 could order a set of custom bolts from me,….

Pat

@Rppoind posted:

Thank's Pat, Very timely for me. Just started work on a early MTH PS 1 SF Northern. Shiny has got to go! Nice of you to share.

Richard

My buddy Lou @Lou1985 recently did the same trick to a Santa FE something, ….it too was a PS1 engine, …..I showed him the basics, and he ran with the ball,……..he’ll see this and hopefully show the pics of his masterpiece, ……he might be headed to a concert today, so we’ll see,…

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Often, these early examples can be had at very good prices considering what the latest offerings are currently at!….Even with electronic upgrades, and some beautification mods, you still have nearly a full featured locomotive, and not come anywhere near today’s sticker shock prices ...

Pat,

This was indeed quite true, and I purchased several PS1's including an Allegheny with very nice prices, but only prior to the pandemic.

From what I've seen in almost every case since then sellers seem to have gotten wise and are asking nearly double what they were prior to 2019.

Good hunting to all who'd like to follow this path, but it may now take some serious patience to get those good buys.

Mike

I won't blacken the rods and rims on the DM&IR Yellowstone, the actual prototype locomotive on display has polished rods and rims.

Even if you simply dot the protruding axles through the wheels with flat black paint, that alone would be a vast improvement over the chrome nub sticking out……on the real deal, the driver set would be one piece, not 3 pieces ( drivers & axle ) …..I know you know this John, but the viewers in TV land may not of known this ….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Even if you simply dot the protruding axles through the wheels with flat black paint, that alone would be a vast improvement over the chrome nub sticking out……on the real deal, the driver set would be one piece, not 3 pieces ( drivers & axle ) …..I know you know this John, but the viewers in TV land may not of known this ….

Pat

Excellent tip Pat! I started painting the axle ends and driver tires (rims) a few years back when this topic came up.

In my opinion. It's about the easiest thing for a caveman like myself to do that gives the out of box model a big push towards the prototype, and away from being a "toy".

It just looks way more realistic on the track.

@RickO posted:

Excellent tip Pat! I started painting the axle ends and driver tires (rims) a few years back when this topic came up.

In my opinion. It's about the easiest thing for a caveman like myself to do that gives the out of box model a big push towards the prototype, and away from being a "toy".

It just looks way more realistic on the track.

I’m a caveman as well when it comes to anything having to do with metal working.  One year of high school metal shop is all I know, and that was over 50 years ago!  😄

Pat,

This was indeed quite true, and I purchased several PS1's including an Allegheny with very nice prices, but only prior to the pandemic.

From what I've seen in almost every case since then sellers seem to have gotten wise and are asking nearly double what they were prior to 2019.

Good hunting to all who'd like to follow this path, but it may now take some serious patience to get those good buys.

Mike

Prices can be all over the place, it is more of a matter of being at the right place at the right time it seems for some items. Others, it is just a get as much as you can get for it. Doesn't matter what it is, how much or how little electronics(or zero) are in it. They demand way out of bounds prices. I saw yet again another 18009 NYC Mohawk #3000 for over $1400 because of the newest ones being out there. The seller is probably relying on someone who doesn't know what it is to bite.

@harmonyards

Pat, again you are the man. It has been a busy morning up here and I haven't even begun to get working on what I should be doing. Past noon and I have tons of stuff to do. I really like how this project is coming together, much like everything I have seen you do. Hard to see the new crank pins, even on the laptop, but I imagine when this project is done and arrives, those other K4's will be jealous.

Well, it is time for my behind to get working on cleaning for relatives coming up in July. I have a ton of train boxes to move about to clear one bedroom and move to another so we have that extra space for the guests. Even if I had started doing layout work(which still stands at plans only), I would once again have to put things off because of guests coming. Hopefully after July passes I can get into getting things organized and start working on the layout. A lot of trains keep asking when are they going to get their chance to run the rails? I keep saying someday soon.

@harmonyards posted:

Even if you simply dot the protruding axles through the wheels with flat black paint, that alone would be a vast improvement over the chrome nub sticking out……on the real deal, the driver set would be one piece, not 3 pieces ( drivers & axle ) …..I know you know this John, but the viewers in TV land may not of known this ….

Pat

Good point about the axles, probably not that hard to do.    I could probably put a dimple in them with a center punch.   AFAIK, all wheels sets, drivers and otherwise, are all made in one piece.

Good point about the axles, probably not that hard to do.    I could probably put a dimple in them with a center punch.   AFAIK, all wheels sets, drivers and otherwise, are all made in one piece.

I don’t know about the center punch and trying to make a dimple, ….you might move the axle out of the driver, then you’ll have a mess……in your case, if you don’t wish to drill, I’d just dot them black, and take the win, …..you might be asking for trouble knocking on the axles, even with one of those spring loaded doohickeys …….😁

Pat

Well, made great progress in moving boxes. I got to the back wall in the one bedroom leaving stuff on the inside wall where it's at since the stuff to move is in the back. Heck, if I keep this pace up I'll be moving the other stuff from the other room the following weekend.

On the PRR, one thing I've always loved is the fireboxes on the majority of their steamer's. That and how some have the border on the tenders. I don't know if the borders on the tenders were for certain types of steam locomotives(like passenger service) or what. I do know that my HO 2-10-4 Texas has a border on it and no idea why. Maybe that was an error by the manufacturer.

@harmonyards posted:

I don’t know about the center punch and trying to make a dimple, ….you might move the axle out of the driver, then you’ll have a mess……in your case, if you don’t wish to drill, I’d just dot them black, and take the win, …..you might be asking for trouble knocking on the axles, even with one of those spring loaded doohickeys …….😁

You make good points, I bow to your expertise.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×