To be clear, you have BOTH gates attached together (both White wires and both Yellow wires attached together to an ITAD). 

The "good" gate goes up and down.  The "bad" gate is stuck in down with the lights always flashing even when the "good" gate goes up and stops flashing?

Penn-Pacific posted:

ya, too bad a company can't seem to build a smaller "0-scale-sized" model of like the #6-2162 where the gates are lowered/ raised by a simple solenoid. I'd be down with that

Yah, but who wants to see gate arms slamming up and down, toy like?

I have a pair of NJI gates working simultaneously to a Tortoise motor controlled by Azatrax crossing detector.

Well, I gave up and ordered a new set of MTH gates. Guess I'll have a spare now.  I also ordered a Z stuff DZ1008 to control the gates with an insulated series of track. New question: should I power the DZ1008 with a separate power source than my Lionel 180 brick which powers my DCS system? I'm thinking that the fixed voltage of the 180 is too much for the DZ (which recommends 12-14VAC). Is my thinking correct? I'd appreciate advice for the more experienced. Thanks.

I have a set of the gates..... installed them after testing one of the gates. Turns out that the OTHER gate starts flashing after power is connected (red/black connected to 14v AC). It will not stop blinking, nor will it move the gate (no motor noise) when a connection is made between the gate common and the NO or NC wire.  I'm assuming it's dead.

 

(( LESSON LEARNED: TEST ALL THE PIECES BEFORE INSTALLATION! ))

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Stan, where did you get that nice diagram?

MTH%252030-11012%2520teardown%25201

You have to wade thru the linked thread from my previous post but member Ponz sent me his broken units. I opened it up and I drew the diagram (schematic) for the circuit board and attendant wiring.

Mike CT posted:

Part of the problem is the motor drive assembly, base of unit, has a plastic gear pressed on the motor drive shaft.  Eventually fails, even with very good adjustment.  IMO, Mike CT. 

cracked%2520spur%2520gears

Right.  Photo shows cracked plastic gear on the units Ponz sent me to study.  So the motor spins freely slipping on the gear. As mentioned in other thread, you can replace this with a metal gear.  While Scottv may also have this problem, since he doesn't even hear the motor whirring sound, there's something else going on.  

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That was a freeware drawing program which I won't identify as it doesn't "play well" with PCB layout software suitable for generating physical PCBs.  With the likes of OSH Park and similar low-cost PCB manufacturing houses that you were instrumental in introducing to the OGR community, I suppose schematics like this should be presented in a more share-able form.

Mike CT posted:

Part of the problem is the motor drive assembly, base of unit, has a plastic gear pressed on the motor drive shaft.  Eventually fails, even with very good adjustment.  IMO, Mike CT. 

Actually this is a better-than-50% portion of the problem with these units, as manufactured, or so I've found.

Years ago I found a Northwest Short Line (NWSL) brass gear that replaces this 10-tooth plastic PITA.  Stock number 37410-6.

While I have a personal supply of these gears....I 'collect' derelicts of this accessory for rework...I was devastated along with everyone else when NWSL announced the end of their business a few months ago.  And, now....miracle of miracles...a former employee has bought the company and will continue its product line!!

The brass replacement gear comes prebored to 1.5mm.  This is slightly undersized for the motor shaft.  Careful sizing up with numbered drill bits or a very fine rat tail file will result in a snug fit.  Be sure to support the opposite end of the armature shaft when pressing the gear into place, and be sure to press the gear flush to the shaft end.  Apply a drop of CA to the shaft/gear end to ensure retention.

The production plastic gear splits axially with age/use, leaving it spinning loosely on the motor shaft.  The brass gear will NEVER split.  It ain't cheap.....which is why its spurned for production, undoubtedly....but it's 'forever'.   Those 30-11012 gates on my layout for which I've replaced the gear continue to work just fine...no other problems encountered.

There is a second nasty gear....inside the gate box shown in Stan2004's photos above.  It can fail....chewed teeth, etc...for which the only solution I've found is to relegate this accessory to flashers-only.  More on that later.

Regarding dinking with the limit screws on the gate box, however...  I've never found them to be the source of a problem...unless someone has already messed with them...and/or its solution.  My recommendation is to NOT re-adjust them....period.  Once you start going down that rabbit hole, you'll wish you hadn't.  IMHO, the weaknesses in this accessory have to do with the mechanical drive mechanism/gears....not the electronics or motion limit switches.  (Not following installation wiring diagrams doesn't help matters, though!)  If you are sorely tempted to dink with the limit screws, just be sure...VERY sure...that the mechanics of the gate drive system are A-OK before turning a limit screw a couple degrees.  Good luck.

So, after all is said and done....and the gates still won't go up and/or down....my guess is that the LED's still flash nicely when activated.  Disappointment, I know.  But you may as well make some lemonade from your lemons.  I've removed all of the gate/mechanism from the accessory, leaving only the crossbuck, lights, base, and remaining wires.  Now there's a gaping hole in the hollow stem of the accessory.  Get some appropriate size styrene tubing, cut a segment to cover the gap, paint to match......bada-bing, bada-boom!...Functional flashers!  Those removed gates?.....put them on a rack next to your railroad's maintenance facility, or in a railroad maintenance truck......the ones that arrive to repair the 1:1 gates when a Darwin Award competitor attempts beating the gates as a train approaches.

Say what you will about this accessory.  "Junk" is not one of my descriptors, however.  They're very nice when they work properly.  And, assuming we're not trying to create a 24/7 maintenance-free commercial display layout operation, I'd guess most of my repaired gates will still be functioning well....when I'm no longer doing the same!

FWIW, of course...

KD

stan2004 posted:

That was a freeware drawing program which I won't identify as it doesn't "play well" with PCB layout software suitable for generating physical PCBs. .

I use Express SCH and Express PCB freeware for my needs.  Works OK and I can make new  schematic parts by modifying old ones (renaming part and moving pins around the rectangle to minimize line crossovers.)  The schematic and PCB outputs seem to be unique proprietary to Express,  but works well enough to get me by for small "simple" boards, as long as I am not designing 737MAX flight boxes .

I'm glad I had nothing to do with the 737MAX, that's quite a fiasco!   My aerospace projects were successes.

I looked at Express PCB some time back when I was shopping for a design package.  The fact that they don't output Gerber files and you're tied to their overpriced PCB service killed it for me!

To each his own as to the whether it's worth spending ~$10 for a metal gear.  Speaking from ignorance, I'd think the metal gear from NWSL is not a custom component and NWSL stumbled upon a source for a compatible gear.  My guess is the metal gear is used in some high-volume consumer product and it's "just" a matter of finding it!  1.5mm (2.0mm, etc.) diameter shafts are standard for these low-cost DC motors.

I notice that the MTH gates is scheduled for "re-release" shortly.  I'm sure they've been pestered with complaints about lift mechanism reliability.  I wonder if they did anything!  

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stan2004 posted:

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I notice that the MTH gates is scheduled for "re-release" shortly.  I'm sure they've been pestered with complaints about lift mechanism reliability.  I wonder if they did anything!  

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Hey Stan,

Have I got a deal for you for the Brooklyn Bridge........

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