Bill, Please consider 'MOW Gray" for the flatcar. Generally black is used for something you do not want seen. Compare the trucks of the bashed car to the trucks under the covered hopper. Everything gets darker on the layout. You will still be able to see items on the deck. John in Lansing, ILL
Bill, I think your project is looking good for a first time.
The smaller and less costly 027 cars can be made to look much more detailed than they actually are, and also look better on a small layout. Here's a few of mine.
First is a former Rail Blazer set gondola (originally unpainted red plastic) that I bought from a forum member here.... El Classico I believe. The cover I made from the roof of a otherwise damaged box car. The real railroads don't waste anything either. So even 027 trains can be absolutely prototypical, at least in principle.
Next, the Procor Tank Car. Just because I'm an 027 guy doesn't mean I don't like current trains, even if the body style is just suggested. Wanting a more modern tank car, I built a frame to mimic the unibody tank car, with an 027 single dome tank body mounted on it.
Lastly a MARX flat car, with a crane from some kid's toy. Some other found items from my junk drawer and it works for me. It's more "decoration" than functional" The boom can be moved up or down, the cab turns, but the crane hook is fixed to the boom.
When taking on a project like this, What kind of decals are used and what do you do to keep them from flaking over time?
Ro
When taking on a project like this, What kind of decals are used and what do you do to keep them from flaking over time?
I used other brands such as Herald King, but my preference has always been Microscale. I have to mix scales, using HO locomotive sets and larger freight cars. I've used Microscale S scale sets but haven't seen those in years. A company called Rail Graphics used to make Capacity Data sets and I ordered a whole load of them in O and S scale. Unfortunately those are no longer made. I'm looking to try some O and S scale decals from Tichy.
Never had a problem with decals flaking. My earliest projects are now almost 30 years old and just fine. I've always used spray cans and have experimented to see what brands are safe. After decaling, I flat coat the entire car with several sprays. I used to use Testors DullCote but have found out the hard way, it yellows slightly over time. You notice that more on a item painted white. I've since switched to Krylon for gloss and flat coat sprays.
This topic has been covered quite a bit over the years. There are some here who use some kind of furniture or floor polish... Future, I believe, instead of dull cote.
The hardest thing today is not repainting technique, but rather finding the right decals. Fortunately for me, since I'm doing mostly smaller 027 cars, I've been able to utilize HO scale decals, which are still readily available in the greatest variety of roads.
Some railroads use bright orange or bright yellow for Maintenance of Way equipment.
Andrew
Having a knee that wanted a little vacation, I got busy on my car today. Another fill & sand & fill. Reminds me of working on real cars. I have tested mounting methods. I have a great lighting plan. I have discovered very pricy accessories for details.
"Rattler21" - You convinced me. The flatcar will be gray. Also, I found a stash of sticks in my freezer to experiment with wood detailing.
"Adriatic" - The scout motor came to life. I'm thinking...… Y'all watch out.
"Steamer" - You are welcome to the MARX trucks Dave. 
E mail sent Bill. As far as attaching, i've been using Gorilla Glue, not sure on removal....might use some clear silicone, would hold the body in place, and be able to pull it off.
A fellow Fink! 
No wonder you are a natural basher 
(That first emoji isn't used lightly here. It took some thought first; I think it would have been OK with her; it fits here in a different context too... R.I.P.- NQDY Nichole... still hoping we are wrong)
Floral putty has been suggested elsewhere for figures. "Someone" also makes a similar product just for figures. I think it is clear... Woodland Scenic? Was it Walther's?
IMO the fudgesicle stick is superior 😲
It was a good day. I once again used automotive tools to refine a tiny plastic toy. I removed a little from the flatcar with a 6" grinder (carefully). I drilled holes to mount the caboose chassis to the deck. I shot primer. And I had a "card stock" idea for the deck. I will screw it together and run it until the light parts come in.
And along the same vein …..
I bought 5 pre-1951 cabooses on the bay. They will donate all they are to make my original #6047 caboose wonderful. I will add all the features found on a #2357 and more. I created a logo I like for my railroad. I have not figured out how to put it on my profile or on my caboose. How do I create scale decals?
awesome nice job!
Progress on my custom has involved experimenting on other caboose bodies. First, I painted the interior black to stop light bleeding through. Better but not enough. Second, once dry, I applied a heavy coat of white. That stopped the light bleed and dispersed the light in the car. Third, I applied aluminum foil to the floor. Another improvement. Number four lasted all day including paint drying time. I tried a number of methods to color and control the light . I liked the amber color from placing a cut down medicine bottle over the Lionel bulb. The plastic didn't like the heat. I may try painting a bulb. To even the light I tried plastic and paper inside the clear window plastic. Here are the "experiment" photos.
that's how you figure it out. Got the trucks (Thanks!) and put them to good use.
..and a 24v bulb should near double in lifespan at 12v, 50% longer at 18v., etc..
You need to vent the medicine bottle too. A hole on top & bottom. Down low you can block off white light easy with a flat...tab? etc. away from but in front of the hole. On top, another bottle's trimmed bottom only; like a smokestack/vent cap; catching and yellowing the "white light beam" from the vent hole(s) (vs blocking and in turn reflecting the light some, is going to change the look too. I'd play with both to see.
They also make slip on color gels for most bulbs. red, amber, yellow, blue, green. Silicon doesn't melt . A covered, hot bulb's expected cooling rate off the glass can be comprimised though, shortening life and cutting fingers on removal if the bulb glass gets shocked along a hot/cold line on the glass at the rubbers edge. Great on cool burning bulbs though. Some are very translucent, others more opaque.
A third day playing with a caboose. How nice. I let the robot vacuum cleaner score me some husband points. The test caboose,X1, got another interior coat of black followed by a heavy coat of white. While the paint dried, and the vacuum worked, I received inspiration on yesterday's medicine bottle failure. I found a large bottle and cut it to fit horizontally. More air gap everywhere. No more color bleed, check. Amber interior light, check. Heat tested, check. At this point I have $1.10 invested. I will make the financial leap now. I will order the parts to install LED lights in the work caboose. X1 looks pretty good on the rails. Here are today's pictures and a video showing the efforts and failures.
Odenville Bill posted:I took apart a very rough Marx caboose this morning. I'm thinking work caboose. I have a flat car that I don't like. Maybe this will help. Messing with the photos on the computer, I feel the caboose needs to be boobed just over one section width. All design ideas are welcome. This will be my first custom train car. Any suggestions on how to get a clean cut? Will Testors model glue put the shortened caboose back together? I have same brand putty too.
While making a pick up run to the Soggy Bottom Scrapyard, a new idea started. Lionel Lines 6047 is my first caboose (about 1960). I would like for it to roll well (see axles) and get interior lighting of some sort. What about window glass? Would it be easier to buy a good used fancy model and put my shell on it? Again, input requested.
I summon forth the vast knowledge database that is the OGR Forum.
if you spread the side frames you can pull the wheel sets and pull the wheels off the axles and hit the axles and wheels with wire wheel on a bench grinder.
after reasymble, oil axles on both sides of wheels and everything should roll smoothly after that
I did not realize how long this build was taking. I added LED lights, a forward hand rail, and home made card stock for the deck. Still to go: decals. some detail painting, magnets to hold the cabin on, and a cool on/off switch. I'm over hump on this car.
Bill
That is turning out to be a very nice build. Great work!
Sure looks sweet so far Bill!
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