Hi All,

I hope everyone is safe and doing well!!

While I am working from home, I have some extra time on my hands, so I decided to finish working on a project I started last year to try to get Lionel's Chessie Steam Special T1 closer to the Prototype.  As a reminder, you can click the pictures to make them bigger.  

Background:

I've always loved the Chessie Steam Special (CSS) as I saw it in 1977 in Chesterton, Indiana when I was a kid.  My first scale engine was the 6-18011 CSS Mike Wolf did for Lionel.  I really liked the engine and did updates to it to make it more prototypical (adding the union link, combination lever, and valve rod which they didn't add, adding lights, engineers, etc.):  

IMG_1187

IMG_1184IMG_1188IMG_1197

But the engine had limited pulling power as it was AC, so I had Frank Timko change to DC, but the motor was small.

So I got the MTH PS2.0 version to used in my 15-car consist (the Lionel one went on the wall on display).  The engine looked outstanding, but I disliked the sound system.

When Lionel came out with their Legacy version in 2016, I was so excited!  From the picture in the catalog, it matched everything I wanted.  The Running Gear was complete and silver, just like the prototype:

CSS Catalog

Running Gear 00

However, when I got the engine, I was super disappointed in what they changed.  The running gear was not silver and the Link Connector Attachment Point Bracket was completely wrong (and different from the catalog picture):

Running Gear 01Running Gear 02

So last year, I ordered a whole set of Running Gear plus the Attachment Point Bracket during the Lionel Parts sale. I then painted the Running Gear, but I didn't change the Attachment Point Bracket.  Unfortunately, I really made it too shiny as I couldn't really find paint that would be prototypical, but it still looks better in my opinion:

Running Gear 03Running Gear 04Running Gear 05

So now to this week.  I decided to take the extra Attachment Point Bracket I got and take a dremel to it to make it more prototypical.  First, I trimmed it down, grinded it, and then painted it afterward:

Running Gear 06Running Gear 07Running Gear 08

I also painted the Running Gear a different shade of silver (Flat Aluminum to be exact) by hand to look more prototypical. 

Then tonight, I started the task of opening the engine to get to the screws holding the Attachment Point Bracket in place (that was fun finding out the engine has 3 levels (Boiler Top, Boiler Bottom, Chassis)).  Once I got the new Attachment Point Bracket installed, I put on the newly painted Running Gear.

I think the engine looks much better (and more prototypical):

Running Gear 09Running Gear 10

Unfortunately, the new T1s in the 2020 catalog have the wrong Attachment Point Bracket, but I'm hoping they come out with more polished running gear.  If so, I will buy a set so my engine is not so silver.  

I hope you enjoyed the updates I made - I know I had fun doing it!!

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Last edited by C&O Allie
Original Post

Peter,

In the picture below, the circled Hex Screws came off using the tool that came with the engine (for traction tire replacement).  The other screw on the main rod just needs the right size Allen Wrench.  The last screw (on the Attachment Point Bracket) is a smaller Hex Screw.  I have several mini screw driver sets with different tips, so I  had all that I needed to do this.

Running Gear 11

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Images (1)
jjscott posted:

I thought I'd mention the line of Metalizer paints if you are not aware of them. There are multiple shades from bright silver to dark gun metal. They can be clear coated with gloss or dull coat and come in bottles and spray cans. It should be possible to achieve the shade you want, even if by mix and match.

https://www.testors.com/produc...acquer-paint/bottles

 

Thanks!  I'll check these out if Lionel doesn't come out with the "correct" gear with the new engines.  

Allan,

Whats the chance this running gear would possibly fit my LTI CSS?

Also, Could you please post up a picture of the top of your engine from the sand dome to the cab please?

Thanks

Last edited by Jayhawk500
Jayhawk500 posted:

Allan,

Whats the chance this running gear would possibly fit my LTI CSS?

Also, Could you please post up a picture of the top of your engine from the sand dome to the cab please?

Thanks

Chris,

I just pulled my LTI CSS down and put the new rods against it and the rods are slightly longer, so they won't work unfortunately.

However, if you look at the first picture in my initial post, that is my LTI CSS engine.  I completed the running gear using parts from an MTH Big Boy and a Lionel Hudson.  I'm sure now you can use the Big Boy Parts from Lionel to now (they were not available when I did my initial updates).

For the connection to the crosshead arm, I used the Big Boy’s union link and combination lever.  For the radius bar that connected the combination lever to the expansion link, I used the Hudson’s radius bar.  I glued the Union Link crosshead arm point to the existing crosshead.  Then I used a small screw/nut to connect the Radius Bar to the Combination Lever and sat that on the Valve Stem Guide to keep it all in place.

I can try to find the part numbers I used if you want them.

Here is the picture again along with the pictures of the top of the engine you requested.

IMG_1187

CSS Top 01Css Top 02

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Images (3)
C&O Allie posted:
Jayhawk500 posted:

Allan,

Whats the chance this running gear would possibly fit my LTI CSS?

Also, Could you please post up a picture of the top of your engine from the sand dome to the cab please?

Thanks

Chris,

I just pulled my LTI CSS down and put the new rods against it and the rods are slightly longer, so they won't work unfortunately.

However, if you look at the first picture in my initial post, that is my LTI CSS engine.  I completed the running gear using parts from an MTH Big Boy and a Lionel Hudson.  I'm sure now you can use the Big Boy Parts from Lionel to now (they were not available when I did my initial updates).

For the connection to the crosshead arm, I used the Big Boy’s union link and combination lever.  For the radius bar that connected the combination lever to the expansion link, I used the Hudson’s radius bar.  I glued the Union Link crosshead arm point to the existing crosshead.  Then I used a small screw/nut to connect the Radius Bar to the Combination Lever and sat that on the Valve Stem Guide to keep it all in place.

I can try to find the part numbers I used if you want them.

Here is the picture again along with the pictures of the top of the engine you requested.

IMG_1187

CSS Top 01Css Top 02

Yes, if you have the time, the P/Ns would be very helpful. Thanks for the pictures. Funny, it still doesn't match the prototype.

Chris,

Thank goodness I still have the bags they came in as I don't have any email record of what I ordered as it was so long ago. 

Here you go:

For the Radius Bar, I used a rod from Lionel parts 690700E216 and 690700E217 (shown below).  However, 217 is not available, but you should be able to use 216 and flip it around as it is not tapered.  Note that these have a jog in them, so I had to straighten them out using a clamp/pliers.  Based on where it is, it did not look bad once done.  To attach to the Expansion Link, I clipped open the larger circle end and expanded it to fit around the existing pin.  Then I squeezed the ends back together.

Radius Bar

For the Crosshead Arm, Union Link, and Combination Lever, I used MTH parts EC-1110007 and EC-1120007.  I'm sure you could also use Lionel's versions 6208029238 and 6208029239.  The pics below show where to cut (straight lines) and what to not use (X's).  On the upper cut, I just ground down the rivets to remove the Radius Bar and the Valve Stem.

Crosshead Arm LeftCrosshead Arm Right

Hopefully this helps.

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Images (4)
C&O Allie posted:

Peter,

In the picture below, the circled Hex Screws came off using the tool that came with the engine (for traction tire replacement).  The other screw on the main rod just needs the right size Allen Wrench.  The last screw (on the Attachment Point Bracket) is a smaller Hex Screw.  I have several mini screw driver sets with different tips, so I  had all that I needed to do this.

Running Gear 11

Did you take the shell off the frame to get the running gear off the wheels?

Peter Araujo posted:
C&O Allie posted:

Peter,

In the picture below, the circled Hex Screws came off using the tool that came with the engine (for traction tire replacement).  The other screw on the main rod just needs the right size Allen Wrench.  The last screw (on the Attachment Point Bracket) is a smaller Hex Screw.  I have several mini screw driver sets with different tips, so I  had all that I needed to do this.

Running Gear 11

Did you take the shell off the frame to get the running gear off the wheels?

Peter,

No. Take off the 5 screws and they all come off.  If you want to take off the slide guide, turn the engine upside down and each in is held on by two Phillips screws that attach to the bracket I cut up above.  I can show with a detailed picture if you needed it.

So the only thing you need to take the shell off for is if you want to modify the Attachment Point Bracket.

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