My Weaver GP38 Project...

I think you got it right.    I have a bunch of Weaver single motor engines, and that is all  you do for power.   

If you want lights, you will need to wire those in also.    You can make them directional with a small diode in seriies with each one.    Just experiment which direction the diodes go in   

If you want to help things straight down the road, you could remove the red wires and put them on the contacts on one side instead of the black ones.    But to do that, you have to take the phospher bronze contact piece off the plastic bolster to solder them.    It is not worth the effort in my opinion, but some people like to keep the two sides separate.

Change the wires for a flexible one is the best idea. the original ones are ok but tends to break after some use.

if you have access to a lathe, polish your wheel tread using 600 grits sand paper to void builds up n the future, also polish the inside face where the electric contact is touching. 

my 2 cents

Andre.

I don't know anything about 3 rail, but I agree about the pick up wires.  Regarding the wheels, I put mine in the cradle upside down and clipped the DCC leads on to the pick ups.  Then I ran it and polished them using 200 grit paper.

Cheers

OK, how about this: it arrived with a broken coupler mounting post. It was a clean break, so I've re-attached it with some "super glue"-type adhesive. I think I should probably re-inforce it with something a bit stronger, as this post will be bearing the weight and forces of the back coupler (long hood end).

Any suggestions as to a good glue for this; perhaps a two-part epoxy or something...?

Mark in Oregon

OK

Wheel sets arrived today, (that was quick, thank you NWSL), and after about 3 hours time, I am happy to report that the Geep 38 is now a fully functional 2 railed diesel.

Only hiccup was that I followed the instructions and added the "trust washers" to all four worms, but it was too much friction (I guess) on the truck with the gear tower, so I had to take that one apart again and remove said washers. It now runs smoothly and quietly.

Happy Holidays to all who might read this ...

Mark in Oregon

Those washers, eh?  You canne trust them. 

Good news, Mark. 

Thank you, Max.  

Even though what I did was just a simple switch from 3 to 2 rail, it was your thread that really got me "up and going" on this project. Am looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. 

Mark in Oregon

Weaver GP38-2.  one of their last offerings.  Interesting note:  The side frames of the trucks are plastic, Probably the only model I have, that has plastic side frames.

FWIW, I found the most difficult part of the project was the removal (and re-install) of the side frames. Since they are a press-fit, it does take a bit of muscle to get them off and back on without damaging any of the detail...but I did manage!

Mark in Oregon

My side frames are plastic - as is the fuel tank; which had broken lugs out of the box.  I made up some brass brackets and screwed it to the underside of the floor.  I loaded the tank with extra lead, so I thought that it was worth the extra effort.

I also added windshield wipers, cut levers and MU hoses.

Strummer posted:

OK

Wheel sets arrived today, (that was quick, thank you NWSL), and after about 3 hours time, I am happy to report that the Geep 38 is now a fully functional 2 railed diesel.

Only hiccup was that I followed the instructions and added the "trust washers" to all four worms, but it was too much friction (I guess) on the truck with the gear tower, so I had to take that one apart again and remove said washers. It now runs smoothly and quietly.

Happy Holidays to all who might read this ...

 

Mark in Oregon

Thrust washer are in case you have too much  axis free play on the worm shaft.  

Now after finished all the upgrade procedure, I recommend to use black polish nail and paint the bottom of the gear case to void grease and oil leaks.

same polish nail I use to lock the gear case screw.

Andre.