I purchased a variable heat soldering station off of that big website that starts with A for redoing the electronics in one of my guitars.  I have been very pleased with it as you can adjust the heat, it has a holder for the iron, a place to wipe it clean, and a place to hold the solder.

I'm at work so the name is escaping me at the moment, but I only paid about $40 for it.  I'll look it up when I get home this evening. 

Hako  FX 888D   Expensive but this is one of those cases where you get what you pay for.  Excellent unit.

You cant go wrong with the Hakko 888

I personally use an 852D++ by Kendal, but there are newer models and the brand is generic and cloned. Easy and plentiful long lasting tips with different shapes and sizes.

Prior to that, I previously used a Weller W-TCP-K military soldering kit.

Hot air gun makes for temperature controlled heating of heatshrink and other tasks. I've even used the temperature controlled hot air to clean up that mold release white compound on some postwar tenders.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMt0g4QoLrQ

That said, my desoldering tool is Hakko FR-301 and the brand definitely has high build quality and is meant for true workplace environment. More expensive brand, but again a name with quality.

@Soo Line posted:

Hako  FX 888D   Expensive but this is one of those cases where you get what you pay for.  Excellent unit.

I second or is it 3rd the Hakko 888.  I got one a few years ago and it has worked flawlessly for me.  I don't use it every day, but when I need to solder something or wire DCC to my loco's it works nicely.  Whichever you get make sure you can get different sized tips for different needs.  Good luck!

I’ll fourth on the Hakko 888. I purchased after it was recommended on here. I couldn’t be happier with my purchase. I second the recommendation for multiple tips for each wiring set up you’re planning on soldering.

The Hakko is a good iron, but I went with the Weller 1010NA digital iron and works great. Temp is adjustable up to 750 degrees and recovery time is excellent. I previously used an Ungar Race Station, but it's no longer made and tips are not readily available. The Weller is not cheap, but like others have said, you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to soldering irons.

Another good Hakko is the 951 if you can find a used one.

I'll add a vote for the Hakko FX-888D, bought one a few years ago and never looked back.  It's a great iron, and it has one feature that can't be underrated if you do PCB work, it's capable of being calibrated!  That means the temperature you're seeing on the base is the actual tip temperature, very important for PCB work!

You can buy the FG-100 calibrator for around $20 on eBay.  Yes, it's a clone of the Hakko calibrator, but it's accurate and that's what matters.

Hakko is the only thing I use at work and at home.

How do you guys know what temperature to use on different applications.

I don’t mess around, I leave mine set at 700 deg F and use different since tips depending on the job.

You can buy Hakko's on Ebay, But are they knockoff's or the real deal?

@superwarp1 posted:

I don’t mess around, I leave mine set at 700 deg F

Well, I really don't mess around. I crank up my Weller 1010 to 840º !  (I generally do not work on delicate PC boards.)

@romiller49 posted:

How do you guys know what temperature to use on different applications.

Experience.  For soldering SMT stuff, especially temperature sensitive stuff like LED's, I use 500-550F.  For general wiring, I use 600F, and for heavy duty stuff that needs more heat, 700F.

@feet posted:

You can buy Hakko's on Ebay, But are they knockoff's or the real deal?

You can buy them on Digikey or Mouser, and you know they're the real deal.

Hakko  FX 888D = Awesome!  I swap out tips for different applications and keep her at 675F.  I think out of the box they are set to 650F... but, there's that memory thing.

Remember, without a calibration, you really don't know what the tip temperature is.   Also, swapping the tips may affect the temperature, the instructions say it does.  I have a second wand with my flat point for heavier work.

@Bruce Brown posted:

Well, I really don't mess around. I crank up my Weller 1010 to 840º !  (I generally do not work on delicate PC boards.)

I don’t know if this is true or not but I was always told lead gets released in to the air above 800 deg F.  Why you would ever need to go that high is beyond me.  If you need a iron that hot to melt the solder, you need a bigger iron with faster recovery.

If I feel the need to go more than 700F, it's clear I need a bigger gun, I dig out the Weller 100/140 in that case and shoot my way out.

@Richie C. posted:

The Hakko is a good iron, but I went with the Weller 1010NA digital iron and works great. Temp is adjustable up to 750 degrees and recovery time is excellent. I previously used an Ungar Race Station, but it's no longer made and tips are not readily available. The Weller is not cheap, but like others have said, you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to soldering irons.

BTW, although many quality irons come with a water sponge, I recommend getting a good brass wire tip cleaner, such as one like this.

@Richie C. posted:

BTW, although many quality irons come with a water sponge, I recommend getting a good brass wire tip cleaner, such as one like this.

Note what the Hakko comes with stock.   You have your choice, the brass cleaner or the sponge.  My sponge has been MIA since I got the iron, I just keep refilling the brass cleaner.

I use a hexcon soldering iron station. They are not cheap, but it’s made in New Jersey, for a USA made product. Been using there products for over 30 years.

Joe, both the Hakko & the digital Weller are good machines, …..I have the Weller digital like Richie for delicate work, but I also keep this Schneider unit on the bench for quick jobs and demolition work,….I’ve had it for a few years now and it hasn’t let me down,….it’s adjustable temperature, and it’s pretty accurate, give or take 5 degrees,…..it wasn’t a bank breaker at all like the digital Weller was,…..as long as it’s lasted, if it croaks, I’ll toss it and snatch up another,…..I carry this unit over to the layout to solder stuff on there too,….I don’t really care if this unit gets tore up, it’s on the cheaper side,…..you can find this unit easily on line ….or at certain retail stores that specialize in tools,….

Pat

I always thought I could not solder.  Until my wife got me a Hakko 888.

I need a soldering Iron to attach wire drops to Ross sectional track for my modular layout.

Are the Hakka 888D & Weller 1010NA good irons for this task ?

Thanks in advance !!!

CB&Q Bill

@CBQ_Bill posted:

Are the Hakka 888D & Weller 1010NA good irons for this task ?

No, they are not preferable IMHO.

Suggest using a soldering gun for attaching, say, 14 - 16 gauge wire to a Ross or Gargraves track.  I personally use a gun with wattage rating greater than 200 W. Most important is getting all the black anodized coating off the track portion you are planning to apply solder. Other OGR threads cover this and the soldering-to-track process quite well.

For soldering leads to track, my go-to is a decades old Weller 8200 gun. I just keep buying tips for it. I would not dream of trying to use it on CBs!

Chris

LVHR

I use a basic Weller adjustable- for the work I do it's just fine. Bought it at HD. Big upgrade from the Radio Shack pencil I've had for 40 years (still works BTW).

I ditched the sponge for a brass cleaner too. Almost made a bigger difference then the station did.

Bob

@CBQ_Bill posted:

I need a soldering Iron to attach wire drops to Ross sectional track for my modular layout.

Are the Hakka 888D & Weller 1010NA good irons for this task ?

Thanks in advance !!!

I soldered all the drops to my Gargraves & Ross track and switches, a bit over 500 feet of it, using my Weller 100/140W gun.  More than sufficient heat for the job.  I believe there are over 80 drops times 3 wires from the track for the whole layout.

I purchased a Hakko 888 from all the good reports I’ve read on the Forum. I’ve used it a lot and works very well.

For my trackwork I’ve always used an old Weller. I worked as a fleet mechanic. Often times soldering was the best solution for a permanent for fix. But you were out on the road and worked with what you had. I had a number of Milwaukee 12v tools. They came out with a soldering iron a few years ago. Worked very well. Well enough I bought another for home seeing I was doing some trackwork. Worked well under the layout soldering track feeds to a buss and would easily solder feeds to the track. The plus is your not dragging around a cord and if you have to set it down. If you opt for the larger battery. It rests nicely on it. There’s always negatives. If you opt for the larger battery. It weighs a bit. Battery life isn’t great if you leave it on. But if you have a few of their other tools. You generally have a few extra batteries.

Hakko  FX 888D

Dale

Thanks for the input guys.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Your question was quite helpful to me, too, Joe. Thanks! I have one of the Weller soldering pencils, but I am going to move up to a Hakko  FX 888D when the money tree shakes.

@RSJB18 posted:

I use a basic Weller adjustable- for the work I do it's just fine. Big upgrade from the Radio Shack pencil I've had for 40 years (still works BTW). Bought it at HD.

I ditched the sponge for a brass cleaner too. Almost made a bigger difference then the station did.

Bob

I have been using that same Weller WLC100 for more years than I can count along with an old Weller soldering gun.  I also have a soldering and a desoldering station which is cumbersome to take out so I hardly ever use them.

John

This is the soldering iron I purchased recently.  Since I do not do a lot of soldering in any given year, I have been very pleased with this one and it comes at a great price.  Granted, it may not be as nice as the one that has been mentioned most, but for my needs this more than fit the requirements and it was highly rated.

@Craftech posted:

I have been using that same Weller WLC100 for more years than I can count along with an old Weller soldering gun.  I also have a soldering and a desoldering station which is cumbersome to take out so I hardly ever use them.

John

I'm happy with the Weller, too. My only issue with it is that I haven't been able to find out what temps correspond to each of the 5 dial settings. My instruction sheet doesn't say.

High heat,  Weller soldering gun,  D550, with a two intensity switch.  A lot of heat, use caution, can melt most plastics. Luxury feature, (head lights).  IMO, Does a decent job, soldering to: Gargraves/Ross, or Atlas track.   

I also have solder pencils, Sears, or Radio Shack, for small electronic efforts.

Plumbing, or (soldering to metal/steel),  I use a small propane, or map gas torch.  Plumbing flux can be applied with a small brush.

In addition to the heat source, there have been discussions about the solder used, there are different mixtures, (???40/60, 50/50, 60/40 ???) as well as acid, and rosin core flux.

It usually takes awhile, to develop adequate soldering technique, IMO,  Have fun,  Mike CT.

@West Side Joe posted:

I'm happy with the Weller, too. My only issue with it is that I haven't been able to find out what temps correspond to each of the 5 dial settings. My instruction sheet doesn't say.

I was told that the numbers don't mean much as once the iron gets hot it is at max temp. John

@West Side Joe posted:

I'm happy with the Weller, too. My only issue with it is that I haven't been able to find out what temps correspond to each of the 5 dial settings. My instruction sheet doesn't say.

Easy enough to do with a infrared laser thermometer, …..if you’re really that curious, …….

Pat

@GG1 4877 posted:

This is the soldering iron I purchased recently.  Since I do not do a lot of soldering in any given year, I have been very pleased with this one and it comes at a great price.  Granted, it may not be as nice as the one that has been mentioned most, but for my needs this more than fit the requirements and it was highly rated.

Question regarding that iron (and other similar "bargain brands")... Where do you find replacement tips? 

@harmonyards posted:

Easy enough to do with a infrared laser thermometer, …..if you’re really that curious, …….

Pat

You mean like the kind for fevers? Are they accurate much past 110 degrees?

@West Side Joe posted:

You mean like the kind for fevers? Are they accurate much past 110 degrees?

No, the digital kind the tool stores sell,…..they’re super cheap, and read well past 500 + …..we use them in the shop all the time, ….handy gadget for finding cold cylinders with pin point accuracy,….

Pat

i have used the Hakko and its an excellent device but mine still sits in the box it came in three years ago. Little room on the bench. I continue to use my antique Ungar, now with a 45 watt heater, for everything from soldering micro circuits to building brass engines. Even skipped the variac control.

Pete

@West Side Joe posted:

I'm happy with the Weller, too. My only issue with it is that I haven't been able to find out what temps correspond to each of the 5 dial settings. My instruction sheet doesn't say.

These are as cheap as $10 on AliExpress.com.  It's just a K-type thermocouple, and is accurate to within a few degrees.

@Mallard4468 posted:

Question regarding that iron (and other similar "bargain brands")... Where do you find replacement tips?

For my situation, and I can only speak for myself, I am not as concerned due to the amount of soldering I need to do.  I still have an Archer 100 watt iron that I bought new in 1994 and I have never needed to change the tip on that. 

@GG1 4877 posted:

For my situation, and I can only speak for myself, I am not as concerned due to the amount of soldering I need to do.  I still have an Archer 100 watt iron that I bought new in 1994 and I have never needed to change the tip on that.

WOW!

I've lost count of all the tips I've swapped over the years, I buy them in quantity!

The difference is you are a professional and I am an amateur.

I have an EDSYN variable temperature controlled 951SX, they are made in the USA and are competitively priced and the tips are at reasonable prices too