My 0-6-0 dockside switcher (6-30045) can light up and blow the whistle but it can’t move. Is it something in the wires that needs to be fixed? I know its one of the wires that connect from the rev unit to the motor but which one? Does anyone have this issue also

Original Post
BMT-Express posted:

That era e-unit was not the best design, and would often burn out.  Unfortunately Lionel no longer has the board.  Best bet is to put a rectifier in and run it forward only.  

Are you sure I mean their has to be another way I know that I accidentally put to much smoke fluid in and it caused that to burn. Their has to be another 

Well, the smoke fluid should not cause any problems. The red wire right in front of the firemen seems burnt. is that the wire you were talking about? It seems like your electronics are fine since you can blow the whistle and the lights do work. Do you hear the smoke unit's fan blowing when you turn the engine on?

A close up of the electronics would help since it's hard to assert which wire does not look right.

~ Ameen(formally known as AmeenTrainGuy)

AmeenTrainGuy posted:

Well, the smoke fluid should not cause any problems. The red wire right in front of the firemen seems burnt. is that the wire you were talking about? It seems like your electronics are fine since you can blow the whistle and the lights do work. Do you hear the smoke unit's fan blowing when you turn the engine on?

 

A close up of the electronics would help since it's hard to assert which wire does not look right.

That could be the wire. Also my smoke unit is not fan driven it’s just the usual puffing smoke unit you see with conventional sets from the early 2000s. And sure I’ll give you a better picture soon 

Train Nut posted:

Looks like things got a little hot...

Good catch! Yeah, those do not look in very good condition and I am pretty sure those have something to do with the motor.

When you try to power it on does it feel hot? If so then that is the bug for sure.

 

Can you get a close up of that component in particular? Also, check if you see any melted plastic around it. Since those do get very hot when they break down.

~ Ameen(formally known as AmeenTrainGuy)

Turn your phone sideways for better photos. Upright is pretty much only good for selfies

Also I think a shot from directly overhead will be best. I know it eats data, but the more photos the better. Also after one loads and you get "success", a new line and checkbox appear mid-box "insert large size" check that. Some phones don't open thumbnails at the bottom. (also at the bottom of thumbnail box in blue, a second chance to insert large/med/sm.  If you edit, you can insert, reload, add,etc.

  That wire looks kinda cooked to me too; I can't Dyspute that 😂 It's wrinkles stick out like a sore thumb. It might be ok, soldering melt, or overtaxed by the issues at hand.

Is that sw. for smoke on/off, or program/run? (it is your lock out too. throw it to pgm. while loco is in Ñ and you go nowhere, but other features may work. If fwd when thrown, always fwd. etc.

Start by unplugging and/ or turning off smoke. Tackle running 1st and then worry about smoke later. 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





AmeenTrainGuy posted:
Train Nut posted:

Looks like things got a little hot...

Good catch! Yeah, those do not look in very good condition and I am pretty sure those have something to do with the motor.

When you try to power it on does it feel hot? If so then that is the bug for sure.

 

Can you get a close up of that component in particular? Also, check if you see any melted plastic around it. Since those do get very hot when they break down.

I actually didn’t know that. When I get back from the dentist I’ll check it out. 

Adriatic posted:

Turn your phone sideways for better photos. Upright is pretty much only good for selfies

Also I think a shot from directly overhead will be best. I know it eats data, but the more photos the better. Also after one loads and you get "success", a new line and checkbox appear mid-box "insert large size" check that. Some phones don't open thumbnails at the bottom. (also at the bottom of thumbnail box in blue, a second chance to insert large/med/sm.  If you edit, you can insert, reload, add,etc.

  That wire looks kinda cooked to me too; I can't Dyspute that 😂 It's wrinkles stick out like a sore thumb. It might be ok, soldering melt, or overtaxed by the issues at hand.

Is that sw. for smoke on/off, or program/run? (it is your lock out too. throw it to pgm. while loco is in Ñ and you go nowhere, but other features may work. If fwd when thrown, always fwd. etc.

Start by unplugging and/ or turning off smoke. Tackle running 1st and then worry about smoke later. 

My bad for the picture just started this account not to long ago. Still getting used to some things. And yea I’m gonna do running it first, the engine looks good with or without smoke so I’m good.

TheRoyalHudson988 posted:
Adriatic posted:

Turn your phone sideways for better photos. Upright is pretty much only good for selfies

Also I think a shot from directly overhead will be best. I know it eats data, but the more photos the better. Also after one loads and you get "success", a new line and checkbox appear mid-box "insert large size" check that. Some phones don't open thumbnails at the bottom. (also at the bottom of thumbnail box in blue, a second chance to insert large/med/sm.  If you edit, you can insert, reload, add,etc.

  That wire looks kinda cooked to me too; I can't Dyspute that 😂 It's wrinkles stick out like a sore thumb. It might be ok, soldering melt, or overtaxed by the issues at hand.

Is that sw. for smoke on/off, or program/run? (it is your lock out too. throw it to pgm. while loco is in Ñ and you go nowhere, but other features may work. If fwd when thrown, always fwd. etc.

Start by unplugging and/ or turning off smoke. Tackle running 1st and then worry about smoke later. 

My bad for the picture just started this account not to long ago. Still getting used to some things. And yea I’m gonna do running it first, the engine looks good with or without smoke so I’m good.

It's fine, besides, you were trying to show me the smoke fluid as well so that's fine.

~ Ameen(formally known as AmeenTrainGuy)

Yep.... Don't think Ive never been the new guy too   

Wow, toasty. If you want to attempt a repair just to learn and explore, it  won't hurt. But I'd consider hunting a board to use or wiring in a bridge rectifier myself, trying a repair, and saving it for backup if you succeed. Start writing down the numbers on the black parts with metal heat sinks. It might do no good as they don't always use marked parts or normal numbers, but trying can save some hassle figuring things out . 

If you can once done with #s, wash the board in hot water, maybe with a little dish soap in it to remove the oils. Pat & shake & air dry fully (it's ok, believe me. Ive ran boards and even BIG mother boards thru industrial dishwashers a hundred times (turn of the chemicals if you use one of those and fasten/clip it to the racks in home machines.😁)

I have to cut it short for now. I don't argue when insomnia lets me sleep again.😴

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





TheRoyalHudson988 posted:
AmeenTrainGuy posted:
Train Nut posted:

Looks like things got a little hot...

Good catch! Yeah, those do not look in very good condition and I am pretty sure those have something to do with the motor.

When you try to power it on does it feel hot? If so then that is the bug for sure.

 

Can you get a close up of that component in particular? Also, check if you see any melted plastic around it. Since those do get very hot when they break down.

I actually didn’t know that. When I get back from the dentist I’ll check it out. 

Ok well it’s not hot but it is burnt, so is this the part that needs replacing 

Those components are called MOSFETs. I am not sure exactly what type you need though. It might help if you can read the label on them if any, or if there is writing on the board directly underneath the components.

~ Ameen(formally known as AmeenTrainGuy)

Train Nut posted:

The first thing you need to do is figure out what happened and why?   The smoke unit filling had nothing to do with an electrical short / overheating like that.

Your right about that. @TheRoyalHudson988 I would change the name of this thread to:

"Need Help With An Electrical Failure." One of the techies here should be able to figure out exactly what is wrong.

This happened to one of my locomotives and I really still don't know what happened. All I know is that the same component got really hot and the motor just stopped spinning. Does the smoke unit work if you manually move the engine?

~ Ameen(formally known as AmeenTrainGuy)

Now test the motor before playing with the board.

Take one wire off  "somewher" & jump in 6-12v DC to motor (3a supply or  6v 9v 12v battery (ideally with a fuse or more care )  Just make shure it turns ok 360° under power,no load on wheels with lower voltage ..at 12v if used, it should be strong.  Reverse jump leads to test other direction too.

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





I can't see photos from the thumnail viewer. This is a copy paste off thumbnail of it' address; another option if you forget to check the box after success, before finishing uploading.  Unplug the motor and jump it to test that isn't an issue.

 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





Adriatic posted:

Now test the motor before playing with the board.

Take one wire off  "somewher" & jump in 6-12v DC to motor (3a supply or  6v 9v 12v battery (ideally with a fuse or more care )  Just make shure it turns ok 360° under power,no load on wheels with lower voltage ..at 12v if used, it should be strong.  Reverse jump leads to test other direction too.

Ok just a few questions. Can this stuff even fit in the train with the shell on top? What do you mean by it turning 360. 

Spinning and running; the shaft moves 360°.

The shell doesn't need to be on, lay the chassis on its side or put it on blocks.  If the motor is cooked, we are wasting time on the board.

Just make sure the motor spins using power without any trouble. It must be dc to go right to the motor. The board turns track ac to dc before it gets to the motor, so you need dc to bypass the board to test.

Lightly spin 360° a bunch, both directions by hand too as that may reveal an internal snag/hang up you can feel. 

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





One of the first things I do to a loco *if the shell lighting, etc doesn't have disconnect plugs* is cut and splice the shell wires or add a disconnect plug so I don't need a shell at all (not always mechanically possible to run without a shell, models vary,and never let an antenna wire dangle unprotected by tape. Dont let an antenna touch anything else as a general rule.)

Removing the motor would be needed on some, but I don't think you'll need to.

*the edit

"Still trying to not shoot my eye out"

 

"Nursing insomnia one railcar at a time"

My aroma therapy? Smoke Pellets.

 





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