Need Help repairing TMCC Locomotive

How about a wiring diagram, will that help?

First locomotive in the attached Lionel Supplement.

Usually, the R2LC drives any incandescent bulbs, but sometimes the LED markers are driven from the Odyssey board.  Since this one has a lighting board, I believe the R2LC drives the lights.

Are you sure the Odyssey board is bad. Without the magnet the engine will just run away.

as for the lights and smoke, they are all controlled by the R2LC or radio board. Before swappimg it out, remove it and plug it back in, then reprogram the engine with engine ID and feature code. If still no lights then you might need a new board.

Do you plan to replace the magnet? If so you will need a good flywheel puller. At some point it may be worth considering a Cruise M. 

Pete

The lighting control board or spring contacts are also suspect since they are the only way power gets to the lights.

I don't have my snip it on this lap top, but if you refer to the link below, the the transfer pad I am referring to is where the springs contact the frame of the locomotive.

Right below item no. 66. 

http://www.lionel.com/Customer...A44-AC1457EF55837DDB

Great and to complicate matters the motor, flywheel and sensor are "unavailable" now what do I do?

6108274101

DC MOTOR / W/FLYWHL & SENSOR / SD-40-2 / U30C

35

$26.00

Unavailable

Thanks Pete, did exactly as you say and nothing....

You used to be able to buy the motor, magnet, flywheel, and sensor...

I glued the magnet on with super glue and all its pieces... worked for about 2 minutes and it blew apart again, it appears that it took out the board sensor as well...

I would do a reprogram to check the lights and smoke. You need a load across the spring pad to check for voltage. You can use a 12v bulb to test. For the magnet you can replace it with a Odyssey flywheel fix-it kit  pn 620-8523-102, magnet pn 610-8080-128 little more expensive use  Cruise "M" Odyssey diesel kit.

Bill 

John,

If I put a DMM continuity checker on the springs I get nothing on all of them, but oddly enough when I put the shell back on front lights don't work, hit direction on cab 2, rear lights come on.... thats why I am suspecting the board, not sure it the R2? Engine is still responding to sound commands and motor speed, whats left of it....

Thanks Bill, did the reprogram and reset... nada... so looks like Electric RR would have the motor, flywheel, Odyssey board, and magnet?

Will use the 12 volt bulb trick for the the lights not coming on, thanks...

First off, you can't just measure the triac output with a meter and no other load.  The triacs need a resistive or capacitive load to fire.  Use a bulb on the contact pads to see if the lighting outputs are working.

You can buy the Odyssey sensor, replacement flywheel, and magnet ring.  You'll have to use a puller to take the old flywheel off, but the new flywheel has a setscrew.  Boxcar Bill has all this stuff I believe.

Lesson one, never try to glue the magnet ring together, because the centrifugal force it experiences will almost surely cause it to fracture and fly around again.

You would probably be better off replacing the Odyssey board with the ERR Cruise Commander M, no need for the magnet ring in that case.  You'll get better cruise performance, more speed steps, and the end result is that it's cheaper than buying the Lionel Odyssey board and replacement flywheel parts/sensor.

The magnets are available from Lionel.

J,

 The fix-it kit and magnet are Lionel.

Bill

Like Bill says, you need both.

I still say I'd put the ERR Cruise Commander M into it and forget about the Odyssey.

I'm pretty sure the Odyssey board is toast so I agree the ERR board is the way to go.

I tried the light bulb test and one side is ok the other a no go.

So I am back to looking for the board that is causing the error for the lights, is this the same board that is not turning on the smoke unit fan?

I fear that these board have been given the nicotine challenge as well... lots of smoke damage...

Interesting John is the circuit board you posted is the 2 violet wires out of the mother board and the smoke unit red wire and the black wire to the smoke unit seem to be the root cause... the connector is well seated, what feeds this connector?

If you have another R2LC  install it in your engine and try the lights and smoke unit. If they work, then the problem is with the original radio. If not check continuity from pins 3&4 on the radio board to the black wire on the smoke unit and light pad, should have continuity. Then check pins 5&6 to the smoke unit red wire for continuity. Then from pins 13&14 to the light pad purple wire. One should have continuity the other not. Report your findings.

Bill 

This can be anything from a burned trace on the mother board, to loose contacts in the connectors, to defective R2LC,  bad contact springs, or pad not making contact, bad bulb etc....

You really need to start eliminating items.  For example put R2lC in different engine and see if it works.  Use jumper wires to directly connect pad to spring, or use a test battery to apply power to springs to ensure bulbs work.  Once you know the r2lc and bulbs are good.  Tracing from pinouts on R2LC to the connector, and through the wiring to find the issue.

If magnet and Ody board bad, got to believe the Cruise M is the cheapest way to go for repair of cruise.  

Same tracing with smoke not working.  It is track powered through R2LC, so test smoke unit separately.  IF that works, then switch, wiring , MB trace, R2LC.  G

Like others said, try that R2LC in another locomotive.  If there is a short or other flaw in your engine, no reason to cook another R2LC.  You need to check if the smoke or non-functional light output circuit has a short to ground before sacrificing another R2LC.

If the triacs have been blown, they can be replaced on the R2LC, it's a fairly easy and cheap repair.