Negotiating Prices at Train Shows

I know what i'm willing to pay for an item when i see it. If it's priced no more than 10% more than what i'm willing to pay i'll buy it without a question unless the seller indicates he wants to negotiate. As far as anything that's priced way over fair market value I won't even begin to bargain with the exception if it's something i really want. Then i preface my conversation with, "i'm going to make you an offer, but please don't be insulted; it's based on fair market value".

When i sell at train shows i price my items at 10% to 20% below fair market value or less to get rid of them.

If it is an acceptable price - I'll buy. Very Easy.

If it is marginal, I try to find multiple items from the same vendor and make an offer on the lot. I'd say about 80% of the time, they take my offer. 15%, they get close enough and I take their counter.

If the price is "outrageous", I'll express an interest and ask what is special/unique about their piece to command the asking price. Sometimes that leads to a conversation friendly to negotiations within my price range. If we can't quite get there, I'll may attempt to return towards the end of the meet and simply state "I'll still take it for $x". Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

bmoran4 posted:

If it is an acceptable price - I'll buy. Very Easy.

If it is marginal, I try to find multiple items from the same vendor and make an offer on the lot. I'd say about 80% of the time, they take my offer. 15%, they get close enough and I take their counter.

If the price is "outrageous", I'll express an interest and ask what is special/unique about their piece to command the asking price. Sometimes that leads to a conversation friendly to negotiations within my price range. If we can't quite get there, I'll may attempt to return towards the end of the meet and simply state "I'll still take it for $x". Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Pretty much. Especially the end-of-show offer idea.

I dislike negotiating in general. Now, the offers-back-and-forth a couple of times is fine - if respectful and good-natured - I do it myself - but endless "dickering" over an item is tiresome, undignified and, as practiced by some personality types, offensive.

Those who consider "dickering" a sport, yet actually want to buy item XYZ, need to realize that not everyone likes the dickering process, just as guys like me who don't care for it much need to realize that some people do. Make a friendly offer or two, accept or not, and then go away. A couple of times I have actually started raising a price just to get a guy to leave my table. 

Negotiating in general:

I always think of the seller table cost and how many items he needs to sell to start making a profit.

The I offer a fair price then see what happens or as I always say, "Shoot for Moon but settle if you land in Kansas".

My rule is I'll always try to negotiate with a seller...BUT it's important NOT to insult the seller with an outrageous low ball figure...  

I negotiate by bundling or add trade ins.  Frequently when selling, someone offers a lesser price, I will hold firm to my price but throw in an item or two that I just want gone.   Target, reduce inventory & acquire cash.

When buying I always offer anything off my table and cash for whatever they are selling.  Target,  reduce inventory & retain cash.

After I make a polite offer.....if all else fails I resort to the ol'  half nelson and a couple of noogees for good measure...

    Honestly....just make a polite non insulting offer. Some folks do get roiled with an offer.....that stymies the sale!

Really easy.  He says $10.00.  I say, how about $9.00.  He says no, I say OK, and buy the item for $10.00.  I guess I am not much of a negotiator.

But at the end of the transaction, I'm happy.  That usually is the equalizer.

It all depends on what the piece is, and what all I’m buying....certainly if a fella has a 10 dollar item, I’m not asking him to give it away......that’s just ridiculous.......but if I see a few pieces, or high dollar piece, I’ll ask the fella before I even show my hand on what I’m looking at if they have any wiggle room or not....this easily sets the stage, if they say no, but it’s a piece I want, and it’s in my range, I’ll buy it....I find 99% of the time they’ll negotiate, and so do I....but I’ll always let them fire the first volley....let’s them be in charge.....I call it taking their temperature......most of the time the price in my head and the sellers price is only off by a single split....split it down the middle and get the piece....on to the next.....if a piece is hard to find, and you and the seller both know it and you want it.......pay the man....your on the ropes.........Pat

I frequently end up with "out of cash" deals. Near the end of the show if there's something I'd like and it's close to what's left in my pocket, that's what I offer. Sometimes it works, sometime it doesn't. No hard feelings.

I'm a buy at sticker person.  I hate negotiating, it's a waste of time that could be spent looking at other stuff, IMHO.  If I like the price I see, I buy it.  If I don't, I walk away as I don't want to waste my time or the seller's time.  If I was selling I'd just list everything at the price I'm willing to part with it at, and if they like it they can pay for it.  If someone tries to give me an 'offer' below that I'll just tell them the items are priced and that is what I will sell them for, no less.  And if they still insist on trying to 'negotiate' I'll just ask them to stop wasting my time and to leave.  They can just go get their 'thrill' somewhere else.

If I think a price is too high or unreasonable and I'm interested, I'll discuss with the seller. I'll through in my 2 cents and listen to theirs. If its close, I'll usually purchase.

Very much like Sinclair, I hate to haggle over pricing, it's exhausting and useless for the most part.

I generally have an idea of what an item is worth to me.  I could care less what the price guides say an item is worth; ultimately it’s how much am I willing to spend to own the item.

If the seller has obviously priced his items to sell and I believe the price to be fair; I’ll pay the sellers price.  

If I believe the seller has some wiggle room; I’ll often just ask “what would you be willing to do on this?”  If I find that number to be acceptable, I’ll buy.  If not, I’ll generally say something like “nah; that’s more than I was thinking.”  In most cases; the seller will then ask what I think is fair and the negotiation begins.  

If I believe an item to be egregiously overpriced, I simply move on without expressing or showing any interest.  Odds are I’ll either find it at a lower price at some point or, I really didn’t need it anyhow.

Curt

I'm all about the haggle.  I'm the type of person that will haggle even if something is stupid cheap.  Bought a set of 6 new in box Williams passenger cars and a like brand new Lionel Trainmaster engine with sound and so on for 100.  He was asking 125.  I offered 100, they took it. 

That isn't to say that if the seller won't bargain, I'll pass.  I will still buy the item if the price is still very good. 

I just enjoy haggling and getting a discount. 

Someday I'm going to ruin a new car saleperson's day by going into a dealership with enough cash to buy a car outright and just toy with them.  

The few times that I have set up to sell, I set my prices at the lowest price that I would accept.

I'm at the stage of the hobby where I have everything I "need".    so nearly anything I see that interests me is not a "must have".     therefore I generally don't get interested unless it is a "good deal". 

That said, I like to make an offer.    sometimes the seller takes it, sometimes not.   I don't bother trying an offer if it is real overpriced, or my interest price is way lower than asking.     When selling, I always have a bottom line price in the back of my mind, but I don't price high on purpose.

The most interesting deal I ever made was the seller making me an offer.     I had walked by what I thought was a PRR caboose painted robins egg blue and lettered wabash listed for $90 (brass).   It was a very nice job, but an awful color for PRR caboose - better on a 54 chevy convertible.    I came back later in the day when things were quiet.    the seller was there and we got to chatting so asked him if it was indeed a PRR ND caboose.     he said yes and smiled sheepishly and made a comment about the color - I can't remember whether he got it that way or what.     we chatted a little more and I started to walk away, and in my mind I thought I would maybe pay 50 for that but not anymore requiring repaint quickly!     I never made an offer because I didn't need it and didn't want to insult him.     Anyway, I got a few steps away and he said - "Would you buy it for $50?"      I burst out laughing since I was thinking that, and I accepted his offer.

As a seller, I usually price the item $5 or $10 higher than I want for the item. If the item is $25. to $125. Then when the customer say's will you take $5. or $10. off, I say Yes you got it.

Not a haggler and I am not concerned with getting the absolutely lowest price I can on something, if someone has it at a price that makes sense to me, if I want it I'll buy it and not worry if I could get it for 5 bucks cheaper. What gets me upset is when I see things like common post war items at ridiculously high prices, where the seller hopes to catch someone who doesn't know (and probably justifies it with 'well, if they know what the price is, they can always give me an offer'), then they will complain when no one wants to buy their stuff.  I am not begrudging someone a couple of bucks extra in profit, if they price their stuff 10% over their dirt bottom price, I generally won't negotiate if I like what they have, I get something I like and they make a couple of bucks, I just don't like taking advantage where people don't know, not a fan of predatory capitalism (especially when I can be the victim. 

Obviously the best bet is if you are looking for something, take a look at what prices are like at stores or on fleabay or the like, take a look at pricing guides, and decide what you want to spend on it, and then when there negotiate based on that price. If you like something but don't know what fair market value is, find the model number or look at the description, and step away and look it up, smart phones are kinda nice that way, try to get an idea of what it likely is worth, then work from there. 

I will add that as someone who has done selling (not with train items), it annoyed me when people tried to negotiate at discount just to get a discount, where I had something at what I knew was a reasonable market price and they made either really silly low offers or worse, negotiated literally on 50c on something costing a hundred bucks, that isn't haggling, that is just being annoying. 

It sounds like you have a realistic approach to selling at train meets.

As for the folks on the other side of the table, there are all types out there. I sell quite a bit, and I run into some folks that just need to negotiate or they won't buy, and others that know the value of the item, and will jump in with "I'll take it" if the price is good to them whether it's as marked or talked down. Then there are others that play the "would you take__________?" game, and even when I agree, they say, "OK, just wondering". I used to let some get me upset, but now I just figure the whacky ones give me great stories to share.

Interesting topic, ElvisP.

I only buy, never sell, at train shows, and tend to find negotiating at train shows distasteful, but not when negotiate for other things like buying a car. If I really like something at a train show and the offering price is in the ballpark of what I think is fair, I usually buy it without any haggling. One reason for this is I have empathy for sellers at train shows, especially those selling used trains in their personal collections. I try to make a little connection with them by expressing my enthusiasm for the hobby, telling them how much I love the OGR On-Line Forum, etc.

I once attended a collaborative law seminar regarding how a person's cultural background may impact their attitude about negotiating. Without being specific here about how people in different countries and/or ethnic groups feel about negotiating, which may be inappropriate on this Forum, suffice it to say a few things in general about this subject.

First, it is good to be mindful that people from different countries and ethnic groups can have different attitudes about negotiating.

Secondly, there are people in particular countries and ethnic groups in which a person is regarded as an idiot, stupid or foolish if he/she does not haggle about price before buying something.

Thirdly, most Americans tend to be sensitive about negotiating and tend to find haggling distasteful.

Of course, there are exceptions to the above generalities. 

Arnold

I used to dislike negotiating, but now have come to enjoy it.  I always try to keep things respectful, light-hearted, and not get carried away.  One of my favorite comments is "What is your I can't afford not to buy it price?"  Many times I get a reply of "I don't know, what do you think it should be?"  That invites a semi ridiculous price just based on the nature of the question without being offensive.

Bundling works good too, but it's better for me when I am selling as I don't need too much these days.  I offer a one price and a much better multiple price.  It's amazing how many times that will cause people to buy substantially more.  You need to spend some time setting your prices.  Too high and you will scare everybody from even making an offer.  Too low and you have no room to deal.  At our local monthly shows, everybody expects a deal.  I don't know if it's from watching Pawn Stars and American Pickers or what, but if you won't negotiate you are at a major disadvantage in my opinion.

Art

My favorite negotiation of all time was when our dear late friend Loco Louie had a thirty dollar car for sale and some (         ) was trying to get it for ten dollars.  The buyer was saying how much he loved the car then went off begging and pleading for the longest time with sob stories and challenges to the point where Louie threw it on the floor and stomped it dead in pieces and calmly announced "There, you can have it for$10.00". 

A few years ago I attended a well known Southern California train club's monthly meet in the Orange County area. I was not a member of the club but attended as a member of the general public.

I saw a box car I wanted on a seller's table, of course none of his items were priced. I asked "How much?".  The guy says "30 bucks".  I told him I would take it and I got my wallet out. It was towards the end of the meet and I had exactly 29 dollars on me !

He said " I can't sell it to you for that"... I was going to tell him to hold on to the car that I would go out and check the seat cushions in my car for the extra change, but he literally turned around and started talking to his table buddy. I was dismissed!

Needless to say I never went back...

John

The current market supply and demand usually has an impact on negotiating methods.  With the glut of trains on the market, patience is a valuable tool. 

They aren't going up in price, so it comes down to how bad you have to have it.

I dislike negotiating at train meets almost as much as I dislike buying a car.  I'd rather stick needles in my eyes !

I have run into sellers at train meets that haven't marked their items with a price.  I usually move on but sometimes will try to get the sellers attention away from someone he's involved with talking about their life's history.  Then when he continues to discuss the history of the world, with that person, I simply walk on.  

A few times I have walked up to tables where nothing is priced.  The seller sounds like a side show barker, "Make me an offer".  Not directly to any one customer, but to all who are within earshot of his table.  In these cases I am more likely to spit out a number if I see something I like.  

bmoran4 posted:

...If the price is "outrageous", I'll express an interest and ask what is special/unique about their piece to command the asking price. Sometimes that leads to a conversation friendly to negotiations within my price range...

Speaking as someone who is put off by outrageous prices, I really like this approach.  I may try it if I see something I like in this scenario.

I'm always amazed at the number of tableholders who keep dragging the same overpriced stuff back and forth.  But it can be fun to visit their museum.

joe krasko posted:

My rule is I'll always try to negotiate with a seller...BUT it's important NOT to insult the seller with an outrageous low ball figure...  

While I agree that it's important to be respectful, some folks have a highly inflated idea of what constitutes a low-ball figure.

"B..b...b...but I paid twice that when I bought it 20 years ago."  Yep, we all did that. 

I don't mind someone is asking for a reduction as long as they are nice. When I hear, "It sells on ___ for 1/2 that amount", "You won't have to take it home if I give you $x", "It is not worth your price because ____", "There was one selling at York for 1/2 your price", "What is your bottom number? ... I'll give you half that amount", I get annoyed and my bottom line usually goes up. Obviously, it depends upon the tone of voice, but these statements are usually given in a sarcastic manner. Nice people get a better deal.

My simple negotiating tactic...

Step 1  "Is this the best you can do?" If yes got to step 3. If no go to step 2.

Step 2  "What is the best you can do?" Find out his offer and go to step 3.

Step 3 Decide whether I feel it's fair and buy or walk away.

No badgering.  No comments if I think the price is too high.  Just a simple question and a decision.  I will sometimes see if they can do better by bundling by just asking.

Fun read...much is relative. I learned negotiating car shopping, and then in another hobby, so was "broken in" when l rediscovered my childhood.  l think l know what it is worth to me, and l will pay that or keep walking, but the problem now is little shows up in (a lot fewer!) shows, including York, that interests me.  Internet still brings the uncommon out of attics and basements, but that all too rarely.  Seems like what l see in current shows is worth more to current owner, so l don't want to deprive him of it.  Set up once in a lot of shows, but not for a considerable while, as value of my inventory has dropped below my investment. Not worth a day sitting there when a quick walk through might pan a nugget.....or not.

Mallard4468 posted:

I'm always amazed at the number of tableholders who keep dragging the same overpriced stuff back and forth.  But it can be fun to visit their museum.

You win the internet today!

I enjoy the haggling. As @D500 says, a couple times back-and-forth, no dickering. I go into the transaction knowing what I'm willing to pay. That may be the sticker price, or it may be substantially below, if I think it is overpriced and/or my desire to acquire the item.

When I bring my five year-old, he usually gets $5 to spend. I'm working on teaching him how to haggle. However, there are many generous vendors who let him pick an item from their "junk boxes"—for lack of a better term—under the table for free. It is sweet of them, even if the items have little market value, and it helps to make his day. So if you're one of the vendors who does that for young children, thank you!

1. Know the market.

2. Know the venue.

3. Decide the most you will pay.

4. Make your offer.

5. If the seller starts talking about "book value", politely say goodbye and walk away.

Elvis P, WOW! I know there is a really good story behind that. lol

Anyway, excellent question and I like reading all the responses. I'm thinking of trying to sell some items at a local show ( Have way to much) one of these days.

I'm not a negotiator and  not very good at selling to start with. That's why I think it's such a interesting question.

Larry

Best response came from a guy who made an offer of $20 for a boxcar, which I declined. He said angrily, "You won't sell it and will end up bringing that car to the next show and selling it to me for $20". 

elvisp posted:

Best response came from a guy who made an offer of $20 for a boxcar, which I declined. He said angrily, "You won't sell it and will end up bringing that car to the next show and selling it to me for $20". 

And that boxcar was probably a steal at $20.

I despise people being cheap.  When I sell items they are always priced a bit below what they are going for on ebay.  Probably why I rarely have a problem selling items.  Those rare times I don't is probably due to there being a limited market and none of those buyers happen to pass by.   There's a fine line between asking politely if a price is your best price and being rude when asking but we all recognize when it's rude.   I probably would have responded to your buyer with "no I won't because I'm having too good a time annoying you". 

Personally, I'll just ask nicely if the price listed is the best price.  If I'm asking it's because I want to buy it and the price listed is attractive to me.  9 out of 10 times if the price listed is the best price I end up buying the item.  

-Greg

Gondola canisters. I have enough gondolas but need 10 or so canisters. $3-$5 dollars PLUS shipping online, I'd like to get them at a couple bucks each....So there's a gondola with 4 canisters (the box says $10 each 3 for $25)    I ask the guy if he's sell JUST the 4 canisters at 2 bucks each and leave the gondola......

NO! he says loudly! The canisters alone are $5 dollars each!  Well, in my opinion he was right so I dug into the box and found a lighted caboose, the gondola, and something else for the $25.  Averaging about 8 dollars an item. Good deal for each item by itself! 

I find that when I see something that I want for my collection at a train show I should attempt to buy it then.  I have seldom seen the same item that I want at train show after train show.  I either buy it then or it is gone forever.    

I always try to negotiate by asking what is the seller's best price.  Many sellers will automatically take $5 to $10 off a low price item.  I can usually get $25 to $50 off on a high price item like an engine.  If an item is $5 or less I pay the asking price.  

It never hurts to ask a seller about a discount on his or her asking price.  You see it done on the "American Pickers" TV show all the time.  

On the flip side, I always expect buyers to ask for a lower price when I am selling.  I am usually willing to give a buyer a lower price.  I don't make a living selling trains and I usually sell items at a lower price than I paid for them.  That is today's market.

NH Joe

At the eleven times per year show at DuPage the doors open about 9AM.  One of the first through the door was a man I knew bought brass cars and I had two in plain view on the table.  He asked about both and then, "What is the best you can do?"  I replied, "$900 for the table."  He peeled off nine C-notes, I helped him pack the cartons I had brought and we used my four wheel dolly to take the cartons to his car.  I put the dolly in my car, returned to my now empty table, asked the man next to me if he wanted to spread out his items and I went shopping.  John in Lansing, ILL

Negotiating is an art form and can be difficult.  A large part of it boils down to how bad you want it and how bad they want to sell it.

Many train sellers at York are very local and have less motivation to sell their goods.  They usually have the same stuff every show and may be there as much to buy new stock to sell at smaller train shows or to socialize.

Some sellers are long distance and really want to unload.   Some buy collections and make their money on selling the 1st half of the collection on line or locally.   They are at York to liquidate as much of the balance of inventory as possible.   As you attend more York's you will recognize certain sellers and just walk on by.

On your first York you can just quickly look at a few prices on the table, and make a decision to stay and shop or move on if the prices are normal or high.

Remember time is fleeting and the entire time you are shopping, other people are buying things and taking those purchases to the car.  So you will never see those items on that table.

If you find something you want, try to find other items to bundle with it and make an offer.   You can be aggressive with the offer, but too low can turn off any future discussion.  The longer you look at the item and fondle it, the more you are telling the seller how bad you want it.   Getting rid of bulk for dealers can be as important as recovering the cash to reinvest.

Always be polite and cordial.  You may eventually come back and buy something at full price cause no one else has one.

Mallard4468 posted:

bmoran4 posted:

...If the price is "outrageous", I'll express an interest and ask what is special/unique about their piece to command the asking price. Sometimes that leads to a conversation friendly to negotiations within my price range...

Speaking as someone who is put off by outrageous prices, I really like this approach.  I may try it if I see something I like in this scenario.

I'm always amazed at the number of tableholders who keep dragging the same overpriced stuff back and forth.  But it can be fun to visit their museum.

I like the “no low ball offers” signs these same dealers have. I sell a lot on eBay and like everyone else I hope to get as much as possible from every sale. It takes 2-3 minutes to research what stuff sells for, I do that and price it accordingly. If I bought it right I can sell it for a good price and everyone is happy.

In summary: The many variables in these negotiations and dickering in striking a "bargain" can indeed be described as an "art form", and some folks obviously possess more skills than others in what used to be called "horse trading". 

redjimmy1955 posted:

After I make a polite offer.....if all else fails I resort to the ol'  half nelson and a couple of noogees for good measure...

    Honestly....just make a polite non insulting offer. Some folks do get roiled with an offer.....that stymies the sale!

 

I remember you......

rattler21 posted:

At the eleven times per year show at DuPage the doors open about 9AM.  One of the first through the door was a man I knew bought brass cars and I had two in plain view on the table.  He asked about both and then, "What is the best you can do?"  I replied, "$900 for the table."  He peeled off nine C-notes, I helped him pack the cartons I had brought and we used my four wheel dolly to take the cartons to his car.  I put the dolly in my car, returned to my now empty table, asked the man next to me if he wanted to spread out his items and I went shopping.  John in Lansing, ILL

Great story John. 

joe krasko posted:

My rule is I'll always try to negotiate with a seller...BUT it's important NOT to insult the seller with an outrageous low ball figure...  

I agree I am at the show for fun.Not to make people angry with me.What I will do is wait till the end of a show.I got a wabash gon that way.I almost chicken out.But seeing there was no price on this car.I went for it.I offered $10.00 for the car.He said yes out came a ten.I like to put odd ball loads.

Tinplate Art posted:

In summary: The many variables in these negotiations and dickering in striking a "bargain" can indeed be described as an "art form", and some folks obviously possess more skills than others in what used to be called "horse trading". 

About 30 yrs ago I was sent by IBM to a five day seminar with Chester Karrass, who at the time was chief counsel for Coca Cola.  It was the most spell binding class I ever went to ( i could see 1 day, but 5 appeared to be torture).

If you ever get a chance to pick one of his books or Cd/DVD sets it's well worth the cost.  So many concepts to consider, body language, and tactics it does boil down to an art form if you do it professionally.   Most of thr information applies in everyday life where you have multiple choices, car dealers, furniture, house buying,  etc.

At train shows your selection is much more limited by road name, engine/car type, color, condition, etc.  But the body language and some other aspects still  apply.

In the end, it should be more about both parties getting a good deal and being happy.

Based upon what an item is worth (to yourself) a counter offer is not improper. If the buyer says OK then you may have saved a bit if he says no, you either come up with a higher offer or walk away. This scenario best applies to private collectors and home based dealers selling their stuff. Offers won't work with most of the large train dealers but if you are buying enough, you may have some negotiating power.  If negotiating is done in a respectful manner, I see nothing wrong with it. A good portion of my trains was purchased by offers that were accepted.

Depends on the item and its asking price.  On the vintage brass trains I like to collect, the value truely is in the eye of the beholder.  Prices on those vintage trains are all over the place, from down right bargains to somewhere over the outfield wall.  When it comes to my more expensive live steam in G scale, I always make an offer and bargain from there.  Its much easier for me to do via emails/online chats than in person due to me being autistic and not really good and thinking and talking well in person.  I need more time to process than the average joe.  If the seller is in left field on his price and wont bargain, many times they will get a smart comment when I walk away, like "good luck with that".  I never pay over what I know I can find it else where for.  New items, which are seldom on my radar, I usually pay the sticker price if its within what others are selling that same item for.  I do plenty of research on major items I am looking for.  Smaller items and basic layout supplies I rarely haggle on.      Mike the Aspie

I used to sell at DuPage and mostly priced my items to sell. I had a sign that said all fair offers would be considered but I tried to bring items I knew would sell so I usually wasn't insulted. When buying I look at the desirability of the items and try to decide a fair deal for me and the seller. I don't want to insult or loose out so I will pay full price if it's already fairly priced.

A  Christmas season feel good story concerning train vendor actions. 

Awhile ago a very nice man was robbed by a long term acquaintance  he took in to help.  The theft involved hundreds of cars and dozens of engines.  The man's layout was under construction and most of  the rolling equipment was in boxes.  The thief took the equipment and left the empty boxes as decoys.

Due to legal circumstances, the loss was uninsured and left a senior RRer in the dumps. 

As the word got out, many 0 scaler table holders individually and unbeknownst to one another & without fan fare, stopped by and each person gave him gratis, a decent sized  assortment of replacement gifts.  

The thief is still in jail.

Now,  his many sidings and his sense of friendship are restored.  Do unto others.............

If a item I’m interested is priced low I’ll just buy it rather than insult the seller or make a fool of myself.  Otherwise I had luck by looking the item over and the seller will offer a lower price. Like others said that the best time for a deal is when the seller is starting to pack up.

My last purchase was easy.  I was at the Allentown show and was looking at a NIB MTH Premier L-5.  It was marked $475, and since that was a little high, I decided to walk on.  The guy suddenly blurted out, how about $250.  Job done, and I have a new PRR L-5.   I think since it was 12-13 years old, he got tired of carrying it to shows.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

My last purchase was easy.  I was at the Allentown show and was looking at a NIB MTH Premier L-5.  It was marked $475, and since that was a little high, I decided to walk on.  The guy suddenly blurted out, how about $250.  Job done, and I have a new PRR L-5.   I think since it was 12-13 years old, he got tired of carrying it to shows.

I’m walking exactly one step behind you at the next show. 

I was pretty floored when he said that, I didn't expect it.  I did treat it to a Super-Cap replacement for the battery before I ran it, I figured that 2004 NiCad battery was probably about on it's way out. 

I am a careful buyer and get my items at good prices normally. Often I buy broken or non-operational pieces and repair them myself. I get enjoyment from doing that.

When it comes time to sell, I usually price items at about half of what I paid for them, so I know my prices are low. I will negotiate and accept offers, but if the offer is way below my price, then the answer is no. If the potential buyer gets snarky with me, that is annoying and I won't have anything more to do with them.

As mentioned before, negotiations must be respectful. Never tell the seller that a piece is junk. Just make an offer. Usually around 10% reduction is fair. Sometimes more. Just be nice about it.

I enjoy the wheeling and dealing! 

I mostly attend train shows as a buyer.I mostly sell online but do sell at train shows on occasion. I keep educated and up to date on selling prices as I do a fairly large volume of buying and selling. 

When I'm buying and I see something I want and I feel the price is fair,I go ahead and purchase it. If I feel the price is a few dollars too high,I'll make an offer. I avoid low-balling as I feel it's in bad taste as a buyer and seller. If the seller has a lot of items I'll make an offer (Usually 10-15% off what is marked) for the group and in some cases, make a fair offer for everything on the table. If we don't make a deal, I politely thank them for the chance to make a deal and leave my card if they change their mind. I keep it professional and polite. 

When I'm selling,I price things to move and where I can take 10-20% off if needed to sweeten the deal. I don't discount on items less than $5. 

Ricky

Negotiating ANY price for ANY purchase is really a skill akin to an art form, which an individual may or may not possess. Some folks are more natural "horse traders" than others, and that is the bottom line. The really skilled negotiators have the ability to make offers with a style that is diplomatic and does not offend the seller. Call it folksy or humorous, but their artistic approach engages the seller to see things from the buyer's viewpoint and this skill avoids insulting the seller. It might be a "gift" indeed!

For small ticket items (<$25) if I want it, I just pay it. For everything else since I have been collecting over 40 years there really isn’t anything, I need but what I really enjoy is the fun of a little haggling; sometimes more than the item itself. If a seller allows me the privilege of a little lighthearted, respectful dickering I often am willing to buy multiple items. I always keep it respectful and if I sense that the seller isn’t into it I just politely say thanks and move on. Also I agree with the poster that said if someone (buyer or seller) starts talking about “book value” it is time to move along.

rattler21 posted:

At the eleven times per year show at DuPage the doors open about 9AM.  One of the first through the door was a man I knew bought brass cars and I had two in plain view on the table.  He asked about both and then, "What is the best you can do?"  I replied, "$900 for the table."  He peeled off nine C-notes, I helped him pack the cartons I had brought and we used my four wheel dolly to take the cartons to his car.  I put the dolly in my car, returned to my now empty table, asked the man next to me if he wanted to spread out his items and I went shopping.  John in Lansing, ILL

If he bought without hesitation or negotiation, the one thing you left on your table was money.   

If an item is fairly priced, it will sell. A little dickering is fun. Too much dickering is offensive. Often, asking  "what's the best you can do on several pieces"  will result in a happy seller and a happy buyer. If you are told, "I can't do that," its time to decide how much you really want the item and if you can live with the asking price. A lot will depend upon how long the item is on the table [how many shows] or how current the post is.

I've met a lot of great sellers on this forum...  and a few aren't so great. That's life!

Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to all.

I usually do a cursory check of each dealer's prices.

If most of the prices are MSRP or above I move on.

• I can usually get better deals on-line, so I don't waste my time with these guys.
  • There is no challenge in paying retail prices.  One can go to any dealer and pay for everything in a catalog at retail prices.
  • A dealer hasn't earned my money who charges full retail at a show.  If there is anything wrong with the item(s) purchased, the dealer is long gone by the time I discover it at home.  At least LHS dealers will often times take returns on defective items.
• I'm not a collector of rare, mint in box items, so there's no point in looking through their stuff.

If most of the prices are MSRP, I look to see if they have any "SHOW SPECIALS".

• Again, I'm not looking for items that have increased in value over their MSRP.
• I've already paid money to enter the show, I want to buy stuff that will make up for the entrance fee.
  • There is no challenge in paying retail prices.  One can go to any dealer and pay for everything in a catalog at retail prices.
  • A dealer hasn't earned my money who charges full retail at a show.  If there is anything wrong with the item(s) purchased, the dealer is long gone by the time I discover it at home.  At least LHS dealers will often times take returns on defective items.
• If the "SHOW SPECIALS" are good enough, I may just buy them as is.
• If a dealer has a few items at good prices, I will usually offer the dealer a discounted price for buying multiple items.
  • If (s)he goes for it, great!
  • If not, I'll continue shopping until I'm ready to leave.
    • I'll return to the dealer and make my offer again.
      • If (s)he agrees, great!  I (hopefully) got a good enough deal to offset the entrance fee.
      • If (s)he doesn't agree, I leave.  I'm a patient guy.  I don't feel I "HAVE TO" buy anything.

If most of the prices are at or below MSRP, I look for "SHOW SPECIALS" and items I've been wanting to acquire.

• If the "SHOW SPECIALS" are good enough, I may just buy them as is.
• If a dealer has a few items at good prices, I will usually offer the dealer a discounted price for buying multiple items.
  • If (s)he goes for it, great!
  • If not, I'll continue shopping until I'm ready to leave.
    • I'll return to the dealer and make my offer again.
      • If (s)he agrees, great!  I (hopefully) got a good enough deal to offset the entrance fee.
      • If (s)he doesn't agree, I leave.  I'm a patient guy.  I don't feel I "HAVE TO" buy anything.

To me, this hobby is FUN!  I don't mind running Thomas the Tank Engine and his friends, Coca-Cola Bears, Crayola Crayons, nor Mickey & Minnie as my whims change.  Give me a good deal on a car/engine/accessory, and it will find its way onto my layout whether it's markings denote it as KCC, Lionel Lines, or MTHRRC without any kind of known prototype in existence.

Most of my items are priced either at or lower then what you can pay for it on the bay. It takes a lot of research to know what that price is going to be.  From my years of selling 1: Most people want a discount regardless of the asking price. Some get offended when you offer to negotiate. Then say you should have priced it at that price to start with. In this case I just politely point out what I stated above, 1: Most people want a discount regardless of the asking price.  I know what I paid for it and I am almost always willing to negotiate. Multiple purchases get the biggest discounts. Some people will tell me "I can get it on E-bay for X dollars. I try to research every item and in most cases know about what that price is. When they use that tactic I just politely ask them about the price of shipping and the chance of it being damaged in shipping. I do my best to try and make the customer happy but sometimes it just can't be done. If they are polite to me I will extend that back to them. Their is always that one or so special persons who walk by grumbling about every item on the table. There is one guy in particular that I just have to let them know at about every show that there is no possible they will be happy so please get away from my tables so I can make someone else happy. This is a hobby and it is about trying to make a few dollars and knowing that the people that buy from me are happy with their purchase. If they are happy they will return. Kids always get my attention. Sometimes they get the best deals. Give a kid a free item and dad is happy to buy something. It all about the art of the deal. 

Forest.

For me it really has to do with the price of the product and if I think it is fair.  I have no issue paying the asking price if it seems fair.  If it seems high I will offer a lower price than I anticipate paying to leave room to negotiate.  If the seller does not want to move, fine, I will move on. 

As to those who get insulted by an offer, frankly as long as it is presented respectfully, they need to get tougher skin.  The very fact you are putting things up for sale means you are inviting offers, you should be prepared.  Doesn’t mean you have to accept it, but you should anticipate offers lower than what you want to sell for. 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

My last purchase was easy.  I was at the Allentown show and was looking at a NIB MTH Premier L-5.  It was marked $475, and since that was a little high, I decided to walk on.  The guy suddenly blurted out, how about $250.  Job done, and I have a new PRR L-5.   I think since it was 12-13 years old, he got tired of carrying it to shows.

And that is a killer buy!

At train shows, most sellers expect offers, some don't and you get to know those guys right away. Most folks don't really want to haul everything they bought back home - it's not cheap to sell at meets, especially multiday meetings like York. So especially towards the end of the meet (anytime Saturday at York), some smokin deals can be had. Sometimes its better to let the seller make a crazy offer instead of you. How do you tell? That's hard - but if it is sellers that you know, you can probably tell when it's time to strike.

And to other's points, sometimes it's an insult to dicker on real low cost items.

A good story I heard - a guy had a caboose on his table, decent shape, for $8. Guy came up and offered him $2. Seller took the caboose, placed it on the floor, and smashed it to bits with a hard stomp. Strong message to buyer.

Jim

I recently put 3 Plasticville churches on my table at a show. One good one and 2 for parts needed, 

I marked them - ALL THREE FREE. They sat there for 3 hours and no one even looked at them. 

Sometimes it seems like you can't even give train stuff away.

I don't believe anyone has mentioned dealing with Ebay sellers.  More recently, I have made offers on items that did not have a "Make Best Offer" option.  I've gotten a few deals that I was happy with.  Sometimes an item will have been listed for a long time.  Maybe the seller simply want to get rid of it at that point, so I usually go the the "Items Ending Soonest".  

If this were a psychology class I think we could assign buyers to four distinct groups.

I.  Grandma and grandpa(or another relative or friend) who is looking for a present for a friend or relative.  They know 'Billy' has a 'Lionel Train' and may ask the seller 'What does he need?"  Generally will find a cute car, buy it and thank the seller.  Also is 'Joe' who will buy almost anything with JOE on it.  A warehouse building, service station, coffee cup, covered hopper - anything with Joe on it is bought..

II.  Modelers who are at a train meet/swap show for the social aspect and if they see something they don't need but find interesting will make a low ball offer.  If the offer is accepted they will either complete the purchase or walk away with a 'I'll be back before I leave" comment. Others block sellers' tables without giving consideration to the other buyers.  

III. Modelers who know some components or cars are not often For Sale and will buy those components knowing there is a high probability the modeler will need them within the next few years.  Atlas, GGD and Weaver trucks fall into this category of components.  3rd Rail chlorine tank cars, some Atlas billboard reefers, R-O-W ABA units are in this category.  10% difference in price either way will not keep the modeler from leaving with the item.

IV.  Modelers who have a shopping list, either on paper or in their mind.  When they see it on a table they reach for their wallet.  The seller and buyer may negotiate a little, but the buyer knows he is going to leave with the item.

John in Lansing, ILL

Dan Padova posted:

I don't believe anyone has mentioned dealing with Ebay sellers.  More recently, I have made offers on items that did not have a "Make Best Offer" option.  I've gotten a few deals that I was happy with.  Sometimes an item will have been listed for a long time.  Maybe the seller simply want to get rid of it at that point, so I usually go the the "Items Ending Soonest".  

Dan,  This may be the best message on the Forum.  Every For Sale listing was composed prior to you reading it.  However, things change.  You have no way of knowing what has changed in the seller's life.  It doesn't cost anything to make an offer so why not do so?  If nothing else, a reasonable offer may start serious negotiations. If you don't want to seriously negotiate, why are you wasting your time and the seller's time?   John in Lansing, ILL

Freight Train Jim posted:

I recently put 3 Plasticville churches on my table at a show. One good one and 2 for parts needed, 

I marked them - ALL THREE FREE. They sat there for 3 hours and no one even looked at them. 

Sometimes it seems like you can't even give train stuff away.

You can say that again Jim..... Some of the popular late model steamers sell but most other items just sit.

I have been driving some hard bargains to off set the problem. Sometimes I loose the deal.

I don't sweat it and I move on. Nick

Dan Padova posted:

I don't believe anyone has mentioned dealing with Ebay sellers.  More recently, I have made offers on items that did not have a "Make Best Offer" option.  I've gotten a few deals that I was happy with.  Sometimes an item will have been listed for a long time.  Maybe the seller simply want to get rid of it at that point, so I usually go the the "Items Ending Soonest".  

Dan - a worthwhile tactic. I've done that a few times with success, the seller will just readjust the selling price for me. So is there an advanced search for 'time that auction has been listed' - since there is an option to automatically relist, it may be months.

Jim

Whether I'm buying or selling the lower priced rolling stock and scenery items usually sell at the sticker price. The higher price items like engines are usually negotiated. I try to price low as I am never selling my old items for profit, just looking to recover some cost and make room but I always leave a little wiggle room for negotiation.

When A customer makes a RIDICULOUS LOW OFFER, I just say thanks your not in my price range and move on. most of the time these low ballers just move on

While at train shows, just showing an interest in an item, the seller usually says he can do better. I usually don't have to make an offer first. 

On ebay, I have found items where the price is good but the shipping is out-of-whack. I'll contact the seller with an agreement to buy if the shipping is lowered and I include my zip code. It has worked a couple times.

Charlie

It's simple, if the price is so high that I would have "low ball" him to get into my accepted range, then I don't even bother no matter what.  I try to bundle as others have suggested, and usually if I don't make my own offer, I'll just ask, is $XX the best you can do and usually they will come down a couple of bucks.  By that point I have usually decided on purchasing or not already. I hate it when there is no price and the person says make me an offer.  No matter what you say, he will cut you down, so many  times I will just walk away, I've even told guys, if you don't know what you want to ask for it why should I make you an offer....

Freight Train Jim posted:

I recently put 3 Plasticville churches on my table at a show. One good one and 2 for parts needed, 

I marked them - ALL THREE FREE. They sat there for 3 hours and no one even looked at them. 

Sometimes it seems like you can't even give train stuff away.

You are usually better off putting a $1.00 price on the item or items.  This indicates that the item(s) have a value.  

Many people pass on free stuff because they think it is worthless.  I don't think this way and will take free stuff in a flash if only to try to resell or donate it if I don't need it.   However, I have observed that most people have an aversion to taking free stuff.  

A classic example of this aversion is putting out "free" OGR magazines at our club's show.  The stack of magazines just sits.  However, if we price 5 magazines for a $1 they fly off the table.   It is really, really crazy.  

NH Joe

cpowell posted:

While at train shows, just showing an interest in an item, the seller usually says he can do better. I usually don't have to make an offer first. 

On ebay, I have found items where the price is good but the shipping is out-of-whack. I'll contact the seller with an agreement to buy if the shipping is lowered and I include my zip code. It has worked a couple times.

Charlie

This happens to me most of the time at a swap meet.....I don’t even have to open my mouth....they usually start dropping on their own...I just follow them down to see how low  the elevator will go...sometimes they’re married to stuff, other times they’re dumping it.....you just never know....there’s no harm in taking their temperature and seeing where it goes from there...be polite, that’s the easiest way to a dialogue....if they don’t want to deal, I thank them for their time, wish them the best, shake their hand and move on.....Pat

palallin posted:

Mallard4468 posted:

I'm always amazed at the number of tableholders who keep dragging the same overpriced stuff back and forth.  But it can be fun to visit their museum.

You win the internet today!

This is how I feel walking through all the non dealer halls every York...

Jim Waterman posted:

A good story I heard - a guy had a caboose on his table, decent shape, for $8. Guy came up and offered him $2. Seller took the caboose, placed it on the floor, and smashed it to bits with a hard stomp. Strong message to buyer.

 

Almost would have been interesting to low ball him on other things to see what else he was willing to smash on the "Gallagher" show.

H1000 posted:

Jim Waterman posted:

A good story I heard - a guy had a caboose on his table, decent shape, for $8. Guy came up and offered him $2. Seller took the caboose, placed it on the floor, and smashed it to bits with a hard stomp. Strong message to buyer.

 

Almost would have been interesting to low ball him on other things to see what else he was willing to smash on the "Gallagher" show.

I agree.  It seems very silly to get that agitated over a low ball offer.  The smarter thing to have done would have been to just say "No" and then tend to another customer.  I hope that seller was inundated with many more low ball offers!

"Strong message to buyer."  The strong message I would have received would have been to avoid that seller no matter what else (s)he was selling.  Childish displays should not get rewarded in any way.

I've found over the years in business that there's a fine line between a low-ball offer that insults the seller and an offer good enough to create interest from the seller, where he or she will negotiate.  The buyer can always walk away and return later...of course the buyer risks the item being sold to another buyer.  Walking away seems to work with the car dealers  Most will chase you out the door...lol.  From the sellers side, it's worked best for me to keep a poker face and not offend the buyer when a low-ball offer is made.  If the seller creates a negative feeling, the buyer may not return.  

Rumors around indicate that cash is king at the shows.  I've always found that you're better off not to create the negative vibe by making a ridiculous offer to a seller.  If you're a gambler, you can always return to the seller toward the end of the day / show to make the best deal.  it all depends how bad you want the item and what is the demand for the item.  My dad once said that true value is what a willing buyer will pay a willing seller.  Good luck!

Just thought I share an amusing observation I made at a yard sale in my neighborhood a few years back.  A real friendly older couple had died recently and the daughter was running a sale on virtually everything in the home.  The very event seemed very sad to me because I clearly recalled them walking up the street in earlier days just saying hi with a big smile, in spite of their apparent health issues.  We never really got to know them beyond a friendly hello.

Anyhow,  as I was walking through the home during the sale, I observed a man and a woman negotiating with the daughter over a glass paper weight in the form of a frog priced at $5.  The couple was offering $2 for the item and just sounded belligerent as they made the offer, adding a sly remark about value.  I didn't need the paper weight, but I took out my wallet and pulled out a five, handing it to the daughter stating that I'd love the frog at full price.  Wish I had a picture of the expression on the couple's face

The frog is sitting here right now and reminds of a friendly couple from the past and the best five bucks I ever spent 

Anybody insulted by an offer really needs to grow . . . up.

Capetrainman posted:

Just thought I share an amusing observation I made at a yard sale in my neighborhood a few years back.  A real friendly older couple had died recently and the daughter was running a sale on virtually everything in the home.  The very event seemed very sad to me because I clearly recalled them walking up the street in earlier days just saying hi with a big smile, in spite of their apparent health issues.  We never really got to know them beyond a friendly hello.

Anyhow,  as I was walking through the home during the sale, I observed a man and a woman negotiating with the daughter over a glass paper weight in the form of a frog priced at $5.  The couple was offering $2 for the item and just sounded belligerent as they made the offer, adding a sly remark about value.  I didn't need the paper weight, but I took out my wallet and pulled out a five, handing it to the daughter stating that I'd love the frog at full price.  Wish I had a picture of the expression on the couple's face

The frog is sitting here right now and reminds of a friendly couple from the past and the best five bucks I ever spent 

That's a great story and reminds me of some yard sales we've had in the past.  A few years ago we had a yard sale at our home and some older ladies were looking at some glassware.  I think we had a dollar price on it.  These ladies offered my son, who was at the table a quarter and even then they were trying to get him to throw in more stuff.  Finally my son handed the ladies all the stuff and said, "Here, you need this more than we do".   

At our recent estate sale of my aunt and uncle's stuff, my wife had alot of glassware, china, baskets and related home stuff all set out.  Non of it was junk or damaged, but people wanted it for nothing.  In today's world, no one wants that sort of stuff.  The younger people don't entertain like the older generations.  Antique dealers say they're overloaded with stuff.  

I suspect all these things will sit and collet dust in whatever environment they are in.  Maybe a future generation will rediscover the antiques we can't get rid of today.  

On low ball offers, I usually just say no or give them my best price.

Low ball offers with an attitude usually cause me to remove the item from the table or get a new price tag and raise the price.

Low ball offers on an item with no marked price, cause the price to increase with every comment.  For example:

Buyer; how much for that engine?

Me; $100.00

Buyer: I'll give you $60.00

Me: sorry, I got to get $105.00 for it

Buyer: but you said $100.00

Me: maybe, but I really need to $110.00.

Buyer: are you crazy?

Me:  well they're selling for $155.00 to $175.00 on Ebay.  I think that $115.00 is a good price, plus you get free shipping.

Buyer: you keep raising the price.  There's no way I'm going to buy that engine.

Me: yes. I knew that from the beginning.  

Me thinks AusSteve has stolen my technique for dealing with tire kickers..........(just kidding).  It IS the same technique that I use, and the results are hilarious!!!

I believe that counter offering is a fair practice, but low balling gets you what you asked for......indifference for a sale!

I don’t really like to negotiate. I’m not that great at starting a conversation, so I USUALLY buy, or don’t buy based on the price. What makes it easy is a sign that reads “make an offer, or willing to negotiate”. Then if your price is just a bit over what I’ll pay, I might talk to you. 

My favorite negotiation was at Nicholas Smith booth in the orange hall a couple yrs ago.  There was a Lionel SP black widow b-unit for I think $140 written on a yellow post it note.  There was only one piece there.  It was boxed so I was reading the label and looking it up on the net trying to decide if it would look ok and did I really need it.  I think it had railsounds,etc.  I had a postwar F3 that someone beautifully painted SP black widow but kind of a matte finish.

A Nicholas Smith employee walked over and took a magic marker and crossed out the price and put $120.00.  He looked at me and said "that's why these pens are called magic markers.  They have magic in them".   I said "well I don't have the other matching pieces, but if it gets down to $100.00, I would have to buy it".  

He took the marker and made the price $100.00.  I said that is a magic marker.  We both laughed.  I picked it up and walked over to pay.

I read AusSteves' experience and I will say, they are nice folks, who will take a counter offer in stride and "dicker with you".

I bought the CN Coal Train a few years ago, happened to also be at York in the Orange Hall........we dickered and we BOTH went away smiling.

And having C A S H , not a card made all the difference. Mr Muffin treats folks the same way.....

If an item I want is over $50 I've had good luck offering the seller 70% of asking price. It's not crazy low and gets a counter offer, then we can negotiate a bit and meet in the middle. If not I move on. 

If you're selling expect people to offer lower than your sales price. Just say no if you don't want to sell it for that price. Easy. 

I haven't bought anything expensive but if something is marked 12 dollars I'll ask for ten or if it's ten I'll ask for 8. These are mostly things in the bottom bins where the guy just wants to get rid of them, so we're both happy! I have asked-will you take 8 for this? and I have said, it's nice but there's rust/whatever/it's cracked here...and they most always say sure.  A couple times I was "examining" a cheap boxcar or whatever and the guy would come over and say- I can give you $XX for that. 

I never price an item at the lowest price I would take.  I'm always willing to give 10 %, often 20 %.

On the buy side, I'll say something like "that's a good looking car, but I really don't want to spend more than $x".  By making it impersonal hat way, hurt feelings are easily avoided.

On the sell side, I'm often known to say " I know I can get more if I wait for the price on eBay.  Some people are still learning what is realistic.

Actually I do most of my buying and selling through eBay.  Pricing there is an art, not a science, but a good head for statistics helps.

Occasionally the flow of negotiation goes the other way.  Here are two examples -- I don't remember the exact prices -- from the SZ files:

    Back when the TCA ED was still sane and Yorks were two day affairs, on a Saturday afternoon a gentleman gave a good hard look at an item I had on my table, which I had priced at $450.   It was not that common, but what really established the price was the condition and the box and its condition.  He offered me $400, and I politely refused, saying that I thought $450 was a realistic price.  We talked some more about related items, and he departed.  But later on the drive home I thought I had been rather foolish -- here was a person who knew something about the model and APPRECIATED it;  it would have found a nice new home, and I had quibbled over the $50.  So I hoped I would see him at the next York, and I did -- early on Friday he appeared and said something like "I thought about it all summer and hoped you'd still have it -- here's the $450".  I said it had bothered me too, and the price for him was $400.   He was actually reluctant to take the lower price, but I think he finally did -- or maybe we comprised at $425.   Anyway, we were both happier, and that is what really counted, not the $50.

     More recently I had an item marked for $75;  again, a not often seen quality item.  A  fellow gave it a good looking over, while I explained its features.  He was certainly interested in it, and stopped by my table a second time to look at it.  While he was there another person offered $60 for it, to which I politely declined but said I'd take $70.   The third time the fellow stopped by he bought it, and as I was counting the bills I said "You've paid me $75 -- didn't you hear me say I'd take $70 ?  Here's $5 back"  He refused the change and said, "Yes, I did -- but I WANTED to pay you the full amount ".

SZ

Old European saying -  Gentlemen make gentlemen pay a fair price. How you determine the fair price is the topic of this discussion.  John in Lansing, ILL

I often reply with "Well, how about if I PAY you $2 to take it?" They get the point. And often pay my asking price after we share a couple laughs about haggling. I don't sell anymore except when price doesn't matter to me and I just want it GONE. And in those cases, I often find it easier to donate to the club and let them get a few bucks for it.

Don

At the last show I put a like new MTH Premier reefer with box on my table with a price tag of $20. It was a good deal I thought and I priced it low to get rid of it.

Some guy kept coming by and looking at it and saying he should buy it. He kept coming over, inspecting the car and saying that he should buy it, but did not buy the car. After at least two times of this, I made a new price sticker after he left - $30. The next time he came back, he bought it with no haggling. Funny.

For those of you who fail to price an item when you are selling it do not think that I will price it to benefit you! I like me! For a person to get upset over negotiating a price is just childish. Get over yourself! Realize this is part of the secondary market.  

Many times these items are train show professionals and are in a less reasonable condition from the previous 10 shows. I would also like to point out that these items often come from people selling collections for pennies on the dollar so they do have negotiation room.

Remember ladies and gents....price is what you pay....value is what you get!

To this saying (attributed to Warren Buffett)....let me add...do your homework BEFORE you get enamored over the glitzy desirable item.  Lesson learned from Mrs. Red Jimmy!

I have a few tips and anecdotes  I can share...I usually attend shows as a seller, but set up next to a buddy so we can shop as well, with one watching the others table(s).

I spent 31 years selling TO car dealers so, yes, I learned a few things about negotiating.  Dealers may think they are in the train business.  We're not.  We're in the people business, and need to treat buyers the way we would like to be treated on that side of the table. 

First, I always price things with 10% wiggle room, so my prices are fair to start with.  When somebody picks up a $10 item and asks if I can do any better, I make a point of saying, Thanks, $20 would do better for me, I appreciate it.  Then I laugh, and ask them what they have in mind.  When I get lowball offers I refuse them and say thanks.  I then throw the item in a tote so when that person returns near the end of the show looking for it  I smile and tell them, Oh, that sold...I got full price, too.  Maybe next time they'll think twice.

Somebody asked me once if I did volume discounts, and I said Sure.  They chose four  $1.00 junk box items and asked me if I'd take $2.00.  I said, No thanks, but thanks for stopping by, effectively telling them not to bother returning.  Sometimes personal satisfaction is as good as a sale.  I always have boxes of $1.00 and $2.00 items I'll say, No I can't do better on that, but I can throw in 2, 3, 4 (junk box) items, whatever.  Not only do I hold the line on price,  but I also go home with a few less items, which is always the goal.

Regarding eBay, there are fees and commissions to eBay and Paypal.   Regardless of where you sell, there are costs involved.  Also, sellers love to mention eBay prices, and I always ask if they are looking at current listings, completed listings, or  sold completed listings.  Anybody can ask whatever they want, but the best price guide is seeing what things actually SOLD for.

Last thought for now.  If I'm a vendor and I see something I like on another table, I ask the seller to put it aside, ask them if they swap, and invite them to come see my stock.  We end up trading 9 of 10 times. 

The goals are to have some fun, make a few bucks, and go home with less or different stuff.  Happy Holidays!

I almost always negotiate on purchases at train shows and of course garage sales.

My MO is to buy used, or distressed trains, accessories or what ever.  I have only bought one new engine and maybe a couple of new cars in 40 years.  I love to hit the junk boxes usually under the tables or on the floor.  I have bought engines missing wheels, wheel gears, missing a corner of the cab etc.  Things I can fix or patch up. 

I am not into new and shinny, in boxes, or latest as I like post war O gauge.  I get most at a low fair price for the condition and will usually ask for a price lower than marked.  Like many others, I do not have to have any train or train item.  There is always another train show or deal on eBay or one I can maybe build.

Charlie