I picked up two partially complete engines (Really doing the PRR but # above is different.) First, both are missing the sound boards. Will the train run in conventional 3 rail without the board? (I have heard that it will not.) I do have the tender with the frame for the  9V battery and I assume the board is on the other side.) My parts appear new on the GN engine. There was snipped wiring on the frame of the PRR engine. When I got it out. and compared it to the new loom/motor, I have a long black wire now as well as the long pink wire. And still have the short pink wire for the rear ground. To get the unit together, I need to know where to properly attach these three wires. (I did write down where I took the wiring from the original locations.) The lamp/smoke unit is attached to the loom as well.

I do need a set of trucks for the tender and a draw bar. I do have someone at MTH helping out as well for the parts. Any help will be appreciated. If it will help, the drive rods on the PRR are chromed and the ones on the GN unit are black. 

Original Post

PS-2 engines are integrated board.  You need the board to run the train and all the lights and smoke.  If all that is missing, an upgrade repair maybe more than a new engine for a RK Starter set type. Especially with cut wires and missing hardware too.  G

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Thanks for the reply. I've found out that an upgrade is more than the unit is worth already. However, with the exception of the final body/frame screws, it is together. In checking both written material on line and pictures from another loco for sale on eBay, I think I found out where the stray wires went. 

Now, another question... I have gotten the idea from those I've spoken with today that the engine, without the board "might" run on DC. I do have a Gilbert transformer lying around. Would it work? (And yes, I'd take any Lionel off the tracks.) 

G, you may have missed part of my original post. I said that I bought two locos. One had a new motor and wiring harness. The snipped wiring had nothing to do with the restoration. I took it out and dropped the new one in. So what I have now is a wired engine with no other electronics . I found a diagram on line that showed that the pink/red wires should be connected to the pickup rollers. The black I believe is the main ground for the unit. These were the only "loose" wires. 

One last thing... Can you give me the size of the mounting/attaching screws so I can go to the hardware store and purchase four of them. Again, many thanks for the help. 

You need to make sure you know for sure where those wires go.  The Red and Black in the engine are obvious coming from pickup and a chassis ground.  May solder to the PCB at back of engine.  Pink is not a power wire normally.  You need to trace all this to the board. Use a Diesel or Steam upgrade instruction from MTH Web for PS-2.  If someone in there and went to the point of cutting wires you better check it fully out.  You hit the DC side of the board with AC and you will have another paper weight.  Pictures would help us help you.  G

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Hi G, I went down to the shop this PM to take pictures for you and see if I could get the loco put together. I was alone in the shop when I dropped a part. I leaned over to pick it up and the rolling chair tipped and I fell over and banged my head on a work table leg. Spots of blood everywhere. Luckily my son-in-law had left a work towel on the table to use as a compress. After I found I wasn't going to pass out I got up and went to the phone and called 911. Responder stayed on line with me till the ambulance got there. I had a goose egg over two inches long and a cut about an inch long. I got them to take me home to tell my wife (She doesn't use the phone anymore due to short term memory loss). Called my Pastor who was already at the hospital. She said she'd meet me at the ER. Got there, had a DR. and staff surrounding me. Got four staples in the cut to close it. Got a CatScan and chest Xray. Everything checked out OK, but the Doc cautioned me about weird stuff might show up, up to three weeks after incident due to my being on Plavix and asperin for blood thinner. 

So, I'll get you pictures ASAP. What a way to spend a Wed. afternoon. I did notice a new poster on the wall. It simply says "how long" each test should take in the ER. What a good idea for those waiting with kids and all the stress a wait in the ER can entail. The wait won't be any shorter but at least you'll know. 

For some reason my pictures of the loco have disappeared. I did get some longer 6-32 screws that worked to attach the body to the frame. Thanks for the size info. The red wires were attached to the rollers and black ground according to a diagram on page 27 on the upgrade manual. Thanks for that tip also. So, the loco has what appeared to be a newer (and new) motor/wiring harness installed. No On/Off switch on the bottom rear, nor any electronics in the tender. I think one of the suggestions offered was that the motor is DC. Is it possible that the engine would run using a DC transformer hooked up to a Lionel track connection? That's all I was hoping for in the first place. If not, I'll sell the outfit for someone to use as a display on a siding. Thanks again for suggestions and help. IMG_8343IMG_8341IMG_8340IMG_8339

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The motor is DC ...one simple solution that would allow you to run that engine with practically any AC Lionel transformer, would be to install a simple bridge rectifier on the locomotive. This will convert the AC track power to DC for the motor...this will only give you one direction of running, just so you know......but at least you could run them.........Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

One last question. Since I am running the trains on the floor, changing locos at my pleasure, would the DC transformer work as I first asked. (It wouldn't be that hard to keep the Gilbert (A/F) transformer stashed behind the couch and connect it when I wanted to run the H-10.) If not, I'll do as you suggest and have installed the bridge rectifier and run it forward all the time. Thanks again for the advice.

Vandalia Guy posted:

One last question. Since I am running the trains on the floor, changing locos at my pleasure, would the DC transformer work as I first asked. (It wouldn't be that hard to keep the Gilbert (A/F) transformer stashed behind the couch and connect it when I wanted to run the H-10.) If not, I'll do as you suggest and have installed the bridge rectifier and run it forward all the time. Thanks again for the advice.

You can run it straight on DC power, just make sure the transformer you use has DC out put. Don’t leave it hooked up if you plan on switching it out with AC transformers, or you’ll let the magic smoke out of things.....expensive things........Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

That is a standard ready to run PS-2 3V engine.  So all the electronic are in tender to run it.  Where ever board is, is where smoke switch is.  If you had other basic Ready to run PS-2 3V tender it would work with that engine.   Interesting enough a PS-3 Steam upgrade kit could be used to upgrade the tender with switches, speaker, coupler and board with harness.  That would run the engine with no modification necessary.  Just upgrade tender.  G

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